| Author |
Message |
    
Djkaplan
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 12:36 pm: | 
|
Odd how tolerances make these gearboxes differ. My 2-3-4-5 was always great, downshifts were always great, finding neutral was always great, but 1-2 was a disaster.
Just the fact that I can shift into 2nd now without the major clunk (clank, actually) makes the Baker kit worth every penny. The screwed on detent plate is nice insurance, too (but I never did have a problem with the old one).
In hindsight, this really should have been the first modification I made to my bike as soon as the warranty expired. |
Denfromphilly
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 12:50 pm: |
|
My brother Dan's X1 shifts hard from 3 to 4 but is otherwise smoother than my stock tranny ever was. There seems to be little consistency in the clunky shifts. Also the lack of feel is very shoe dependent, I wore my caterpillar boots yesterday and could not feel shifts very well. Today I have high top sneakers that are like the thin shoes boxers wear and there is a lot more feel.
Seeing that we are about 1% of the Baker customers, I wonder what the Sportster riders think of the smooth shift kit? |
Henrik
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 03:19 pm: |
|
Dan; thanks. I followed the link earlier in this thread and have the "fax" file safe tucked away. But more specific instructions as to where and how much would be appropriate.
Henrik |
Djkaplan
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 03:43 pm: |
|
You can visually see where you need to grind (and how much) if you shift the transmission to 4th with the primary chain and clutch off. The interference is with the high spot on the detent plate. You'll have to pull the shift pawl off to grind only on the shift arm. I did it with a hand file, it only took a minute, but it makes a world of difference.
You are right, though... instructions would have been nice. All you get with the kit is styrofoam peanuts and wrapping. |
Djkaplan
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 03:45 pm: |
|
Holy crap... did we hijack this thread, or what? |
Denfromphilly
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 04:55 pm: |
|
Yeah we hijacked reeealll gooood!
Henrick, I had to put my shifter on and off a couple times and then engage it and see that the arm cleared the detent when the arm was in the down position. There is a big lobe between 1st and neutral and the arm hits it between 3rd and 4th. Mine made a little nick in the detent that I filed down. 1/10th inch should be enough but you need to check the clearance while shifting every gear with the shifter arm to get the pawl to move and engage. It's obvious what the problem is and when you grind down enough. |
Henrik
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 10:32 pm: |
|
Thread-jack indeed ... sorry 
That's great info guys. Thank you. I'll try to remember to snap some pictures when i go back in there for the procedure.
Henrik |
F1johny
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 02:36 am: |
|
looks like my 98 S3 needs much the same thanx all. |
Denfromphilly
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 09:37 am: |
|
I had to put the pawl in, adjust it, hang the shifter on and they with a rag over the detent plate (so I didn't pinch my fingers)to slow down the movement I walked it through the gears one at a time. I took the pawl and shifter off three times to grind.
I did get a phone call from Baker Drivetrain last night and they say that not every bike needs the shift arm mod. They did say they would put a copy of the instructions in every kit they send out. Cool Huh? |
Djkaplan
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 09:55 am: |
|
That is cool.
I'm thinking the the shift pawl adjustment on bikes with miles on them is the culprit. Once you get your drill bit clearance, the shift arm is probably rocked clockwise a bit in the slotted holes, more so than on a newer bike with no miles.
I really enjoyed this little adventure. It's funner [sic] when you can share the misery of redoing something over again - I had to pull my bike apart twice to get this done. |
|
