| Author | Message | ||
     Buellx1w |
I bought the Showa oil and pulled out the service manual and YIKES- I need to REMOVE the entire forks to change the fork oil? Whatever happened to loosening the drain plug and pumping out the oil? Is this really the only way to change it? Any websites/advice on the procedure? I never had the forks off a bike! - Spyder | ||
| Oldog |
Spyder yes you have to take the front end down I did it and posted some of it in the kv link .. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=536352#POST536352 (Message edited by oldog on May 16, 2006) they are up side down forks that is why you have to pull them down, if you are not doing the trees its not bad, block front up remove wheel, fender and brake caliper loosen pinch bolts remove legs, review FSM for oil change procedure tear down is not needed. (Message edited by oldog on May 16, 2006) | ||
| Odinbueller |
Trust me, as long as you are careful, remember to note each setting, follow the FSM & have the proper tools, fork oil replacement is no problem. Be sure to pump that damper rod to COMPLETELY evacuate all oil from the fork leg. Good luck! You probably will not need it  Chris P.S. - Be sure to have some shop towels handy, as the first time is ALWAYS the messiest | ||
| Whodom |
Odin & Oldog, I need to do this on my S3 shortly too. The FSM calls for the use of the special tool to recompress the springs, correct? So, do I have to follow the FSM 100%, or can I get by without a ~$100+ spring compressor tool? | ||
| Odinbueller |
Yes, the tool that the FSM calls for is by SPX/Kent-Moore (or Spent-More as we call it). There are equally decent alternatives in Parts Unlimited & Drag Specialties catalogues that will get the job done without the same costs. To compress the spring, you'll need this: http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/1739/196/2386230 To get the proper oil level, you'll need this: http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/1739/189/2386272 But you do need to compress the fork spring to remove the fork cap to gain access to the damper rod to completely pump out all old oil. To do this, you'll need this: http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/1739/196/2386206 Again, not a lot of neurons needed to do this, just the proper amount attention to detail. Most people forget to take note of their preload, compression & rebound damping settings prior to disassembly. Things like that. Hope this helps, Chris | ||
| Whodom |
Chris, Thanks for the details on the exact tools needed. Any idea what a typical dealer will charge to do this service (assuming I bring him the bare fork tubes)? Dropping the fork tubes is no problem, but it's kind of hard for me to justify spending ~$200 on tools for a job the FSM recommends doing once every 5 years. Do you know if the tools would be compatible with XB forks? I wouldn't mind spending $200 if I knew I could continue using the tools when I get around to trading up. Thanks, Hugh | ||
| Oldog |
unless your springs are a lot heavier than mine are you can use your hands (lotsa effort) grab the spacer pull down catch the keeper under the rod tip, a gentle tap and the keeper should return to center. oil level use a scale or a clean rod and take your time. not hard at all. or I did it all wrong, I inverted the leg assembleys over a catch pan and carefully stroked the damper untill no oil came out ( about 10~15 times ) the tools save a great deal of time and a few skint fingers. about 12~13 ozs of oil were reqd IIRC the biggest thing that Chris points out and I heartily agree pay attention to the details, when its DIY taking your time is a good thing, | ||
| Odinbueller |
I believe the tools are all interchangeable. I would need to check on the damper rod tools to ensure that the thread pitch is covered for both tuber & XB forks, but the spring compressor & fork oil level work on both. You can get the fork cap off without the spring compressor, but it might take some extra elbow grease to get it done. Cool thing is if you have a vise in your shop, you just clamp down on it and let the tool do the compressing & holding at the same time. Not sure what we would charge for an off bike fork service like that. I would imagine between 1/2 to 1 hour labor max + oil, seals & shop supplies. Chris |
