| Author | Message | ||
     Chasespeed |
Well, I noticed last nigth, that the left side adjuster lock is stripped(the bolt the threads into the swingarm).. Has anyone else had this issue, IF so, how was it dealt with... I dont know what to do, as this is my transportation, I can even afford to get another rear shock for the bike....let alont a new swing arm, as I dont see any way the tap it for a larger size.... I dont think the wheel/adujster is moving around in there, BUT, it coul dbe a problem.. Chase | ||
| Hans |
Calm down: No screw thread in the swingarm at all. The adjuster bolt has to have two nuts at the end which are locked against each other. You need only three hands: two for locking the adjuster nuts against each other and one to fix the adjuster bolt. But that is much cheaper to work around than buying a new swingarm.  Hans | ||
| Bomber |
Chase -- my Y2K MaDuece came that way from the dealer -- no biggie at all as Hans sez, use the two nuts to adjust the bolt's position -- you can substitute teeth for the thrid hand, btw | ||
| Chasespeed |
Cool, couda SWORE that the last couple times I just used twisted the bolt, then locked the lock nuts... Then again, I could be confusing myself with one of my older bikes... Stress+lack of sleep=not thinking clearly.. Sorry for the dumb post...I found it late last nite, and came to work...no time to investigate, or think it through.. Now, to stop the damn muffler from creeping towards the tire all the time, THAT is really bothering me, as its probably gonna get me killed... Need to look into a different bracket for teh back pipe...or something Chase | ||
| Bomber |
chase -- I think the hole is pretty close to the OD of the bolt, so it could ACT like it's threaded the first 20 times ya mess with it -- no such thing as a stupid post, only stupid . . . . . o, never mind ;-} | ||
| Aaomy |
chase your scaring me.. get that exhaust taken care of asap... dont wanna hear about another pogo stick buell catapult pilot!!! | ||
| Chasespeed |
Aaron, doing the best I can bro, I check it every day, or every other day, and loosen the clamp, and move it forward as needed. I live in an apartment complex, and working otn eh bike is sketchy at best. I have to puch it up the lawn and sidewalk, AFTER dark(as my neighbors suck, cant even buy them off with beer or money), and do what I have to do... the landlord is still trying to figure out what that stain on the stoop is(had to bleed the front brakes after a line replacement, that almost resulted in me rearending a dump truck)... I was gonna jsut go get a self tapper, but that wont do it I dont think... My D&D slip-on wasnt too bad, stopped creeping after the first 2 or 3 adjustments.. BUT, this thing is making me nervous as hell.. I mean to the point, i am thinking about just buying a piece of 2.5 inch pipe, and runnign a short str8 pipe, and WELD the hangars to it.. Its a ceramic coated D&D full system..and its really bugging me, and making my REALLY want a force pipe more than anything(1 peice)... Believe me, I have no desire to wreck again this year...I am still in pain from teh wreck back in feb... Any suggestions woudl be welcome...I mean, I am almost willing to try the self tapper route, IF I knew that it woudlnt shear the screw anyway, oir enlongate the hole...not gonna tear up this expensive exhaust... Maybe someone who doesnt put 1k a week on their bike would be interested... Chase | ||
| Djkaplan |
Al Lighton gave me a great recommendation when I modified my V&H to work on a race header. Drill a small hole through one side where the pipes overlap underneath the clamp. Stick in a small, shortened rivet head (or something comparable) and use the clamp to cover and secure it. Seemed like a great idea, but I never had to try it. A shortened V&H with the front elbow cut off works great with the race header, btw. | ||
| Aaomy |
a screw or rivit would probably work,, or you could use a substance called screw grab. its a paste you put on the ends of tools , screw drivers, allen wrenches, to improve their grip strength.. think in may be small carbide particles.. but i think a thin layer between the pipes would cause them to grip enough to keep them from shifting.. if you can take pictures and post them i can probably give you some more ideas.. maybe a mechanical retention system.. "brackets" | ||
| Chasespeed |
Thats what i was thinking. There are 2 brackets that hand down, to connect to the can. If I could get them to be vertical, I could make a Z brack, as teh offset is enough, where it shoudlnt walk anywhere persiod. Kinda hard to explain. And no, I dont have a camera, they cost money, and that is something I dont have... Anyway, I will figure something out, but, for now, I am just gonna have to deal with it the way it is...keeping an eye on it of course... and I will have to slide it back forward when I get off work later today... Chase | ||
| Djkaplan |
"I could make a Z brack, as teh offset is enough, where it shoudlnt walk anywhere persiod. Kinda hard to explain" That's exactly what keeps my V&H from walking... the Z-bracket supplied with the muffler. | ||
| Chasespeed |
Neither the stock can, my D&D slip-on, OR my full system had this Z bracket..I will swing by the stealership tomorrow to see if they have a listing... I have 2 pieces of metal hanging down...kinda shady huh? I dont even know if the stock bracket will work with my current system...sit a little further back than stock... Chase | ||
| Djkaplan |
The Z-bracket I'm talking about came supplied with the V&H muffler. I wouldn't use it for your application, however. It has a reputation for breaking and the D&D muffler is a lot heavier than a V&H muffler. | ||
| Sanchez |
> WELD the hangars to it.. Works for me.   | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
HEH! I did that to my "daytona boss" Brazing rod sticks to clean stainless really nicely. I went from carrying a 1/2" wrench and checking the hardware when I got gas to Not needing to tighten it for 6000 miles  | ||
| Aaomy |
chase if you can give me some measurements i may be able to hook you up.. stuff like how far down dose the exhaust hang, meaning center of mounting bolt holes on the bikes rear suspension block to center of holes on the exhaust mounting tabs.. what size bolt goes threw the exhaust mounting tabs and are their two tabs or just one.. if you can discribe it to me or some one else can help us out and post a picture of "your exhaust" mounted on their bike i would see what i could come up with.. just dont want to see any one go down...let me know , | ||
| Aaomy |
dam,, think a already got a cool little bracket figured out in my head... simple easy effective.. hmmmmm... gonna post and see if anyone can help.. | ||
| Djkaplan |
He's serious... I once agreed with someone and said I could use a longer shift rod for my M2... too, and there was one in the mail the next week. I always point to it and say, "Aaomy sent me this...". | ||
| Chasespeed |
Oh, of that I have no doubt. He is the man with that lathe thing he has.... Anyway, I will try to get you some measurements, and go from there. Its funny thoough, where as the stock pipe, and the D&D, the brackets, hunga straight down, with the full system, they go towards the back a bit, I gotta draw a pic, or try to hijack someones camera... Chase |
