| Author | Message | ||
     Slingshot |
Hi everyone, I have a 2000 x1, I upgraded to the new tensioner. I have included a pix of the old original tensioner, it has worn down on the corner from rubbing against the stator? This cannot be normal. The chain seems to be ok as the bike has 10,000 miles on it. The manual says when you can't adjust it any more replace the chain and the tensioner, I have a lot more on the bolt. The tensioner did not break it is still good. I just wanted to update it. New tensioner was installed and adjusted. It seems like it is making a little noise. Has anyone ever seen this type of wear and are there suggestions on what is going on or how to fix. You guys are the best and thanks for any input.  | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: This is what "i" have been telling you'all all along about your "PRIMARY CHAIN" being ajusted "TOO TIHGT" !!! NOW YOU'LL HAVE A PICTURE !!! The Factory Motors Manual is wrong !!! Adjust you PRIMARY CHAIN to 3/4 inch on the tight spot, cold, PERIOD !!! The chain will not rattle(hit your engine cases) ... When adjusted correctly you can hardly see any drag marks on the adjuster PLASTIC ... IN FACT YOU DID NOT HAVE TO REPLACE, all you had to do was to adjust the chain properly ... In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Jackbequick |
In the photo the wear marks on the shoe don't look to be centered. The shoe is supposed to be installed with the closed side towards the cover and the open side towards the motor. If that shoe was put in facing the wrong way, it could move towards the stator. Is there any possibility that it was in wrong? Jack | ||
| Oldog |
That makes sense to me Jack | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
That corner wear is strange. I replaced my original shoe at about 40,000. I didn't really have to, I just wanted to upgrade to the new version. I just went out and grabbed it from the garage. There is just a hint of wear on one corner. (see top left)  It just bearly kisses the metal to polish it.  There was also some odd mark on the side.  I hope this helps. | ||
| Slingshot |
Hi Jack, The shoe was installed correctly,the open side was towards the stator. I wonder if the hole where the tensioner mounts to the case is not right. When they are cast are the holes drilled and tapped? Could the hole be in the wrong place? Buellistic I will loosen it up, I adjusted it according to the manual. I hope this does it as the new one has a bigger chunk of metal under the shoe. It just seems to easy! Hope your right! Nat did your stator have shinny marks on it, yours looks a little like mine not as bad tho. Thanks for the replies, as always you guys are the best. Art | ||
| Buellistic |
Slingshot: 3/4 inch on the tight spot, cold, "PERIOD" !!! THE MANUAL IS WRONG !!! "ALL OF YOU READ MY FIRST POST 18 APRIL at 6:35PM !!!" | ||
| Dck996 |
Slingshot, I too had similar wear on my tensioner. I've decided that this comes from the procedure used when making primary adjustments. The tensioner shoe has clearance in the primary cover. When you turn the adjusting screw to loosen the primary chain, the tensioner could rotate so that the corner moves toward the rotor. Apparently, some of us have enough tensioner clearance to allow rotor contact. When I did my tensioner upgrade, I saw the wear in the original tensioner, and decided to file a chamfer in the tensioner before installing it. I sized the chamfer strictly by intuition. I now do all my primary chain adjustments such that I finish by tightening the chain, not by loosening it. I also cut a short piece from a hex key wrench and epoxied it into the adjuster screw, to allow use of an open end wrench with the muffler in place. It worked for me. | ||
| Slingshot |
Thanks you all for all the input. Now it's time to get the hammer out and fix the problem. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Use a rock. I prefer basalt. |
