| Author | Message | ||
     Jimincalif |
If "loud pipes save lives" I'm gonna live to be 130. My neigbors are gonna lynch me. It sounds most definately "pro street"  . Bottom end power has faded, top end is...well I dunno yet, it's been raining, can't tell without wiping out. But I can feel it lurking just in quick trips up the tach. Jeez. The old V&H pipe was all cruddy inside, between that and the old 2" collector inlet headers then swapping to this, I got a feeling I just added 15hp or something crazy like that. This is a moderately "built" engine, 10.5:1, 2004 heads, 1250 kit, Thunderstorm domed pistons...and it felt same as stock once I had it together, so I've suspected that cruddy ol' pipe was holding it back bigtime. OK. The whole bottom KT "muffler" (read: dump tube) is 2.5" across. At this point I'm ready to score one of these: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=/egnsearch.asp&N=400410 17" SuperTrapp muffler body, 5" disks on the end, 2.5" inlet. Right now I've got the KT-supplied clamp at the FORWARD end of their "muffler" (yeah right) so it would be easy to cut it back 16" or so, bolt this on and then hang the SuperTrapp off the back mount. Then tune it with the disks. Thoughts? | ||
| Rich |
I've been running the stock 4" Supertrapp on my RS forever. Once I figured what discs and baffle I needed, no complaints. The only trouble I've had was when I hit some RR tracks at about 80, bottomed it and had to have it welded a little. | ||
| Jimincalif |
Ooops, better URL: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&par t=SUP%2D443%2D2517&N=400410&autoview=sku | ||
| Djkaplan |
How do you intend to hang it from the back mount? | ||
| S1_lightning_nl |
I have this http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=/egnsearch.asp&N=400410 one under my S1. It has the 5" discs. Made a bracket for the back. First ran it with 19 discs, not that noisy at all. Now I run it with no discs at all but with an end pipe faced to the side because they don't like exhaust gas blown at the back tire at the track......  | ||
| Spiderman |
Yep my KT is enough to wake the dead. Welcome ot the club BWAHAHAHA BTW the KT is the loudest Buell pipe EVER!!! I am kinda said I am loosing mine for a Turbo  | ||
| Leftcoastal |
Yep, Spidey - that turbo is going to be quieter than a stock muffler! You will, in fact, have something that will contain "muffler bearings!" (ceramic, +/- .000003" tolerance, according to Steve, the Turbo Doc) That KT pipe is the Buell version of drag pipes, only louder. Makes that Thunderheader on my FLHR sound like a whoopie cushion by comparison. AL | ||
| Chevysolid |
S1 what kind of mirrors are those??? They look kinda fireboltish | ||
| Mikeyp |
Spidey, thinkin about selling that KT? I always wanted to have a spare one. Let me know. Mikey | ||
| Spiderman |
Sorry, I love that pipe, you wanna sell yours  | ||
| S1_lightning_nl |
@Chevysolid Adam, the mirror is from a moped with a home made oil temperature gauge inside.  (Message edited by s1_lightning_nl on March 29, 2006) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Man! you have a lot of stuff on that dash. | ||
| Chevysolid |
WOW, sweet I would love one with a clock | ||
| Jimincalif |
OK, an update. I scored a Supertrapp "universal" glasspack with disk ends, ordered overnight from Summit Racing: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUP%2D443%2D2517& N=400410&autoview=sku Summit says the part number is: SUP-443-2517 I think that's Supertrapp's part number but it might be Summit-specific. It has a 17" body, stainless, 2.5" inlet and (not stated in their specs or Supertrapp's site) has 12 disks included. Also comes with a pretty decent front clamp and mediocre rear. I mounted the KT pipe with the KT mounting clamp at the forward-most location, basically right behind the last curve in the KT main pipe. That left the KT "cannister" (just an empty tube with a 2.5" outside diameter) hanging free behind it. I had a local shop with a portable cutting saw cut the KT pipe shorter while still on the bike, sizing up the cut based on the Supertrapp's cannister length. The Supertrapp's connection point needed a bit of spreading and then went right on the KT and clamped up. The rear clamp fit right onto one of the stock rear pipe hanger cross-bolts. Looks damned good. ------- The stock setup on this was the factory '97 headers with 2" collector and a ratty old V&H cannister. Right now I've got all 12 disks included in the initial Supertrapp kit on there. Power seems better than what I had, a lot "crisper" and a bit more top end but no louder than what I had before. Killer. I've got another pack of 6 disks I ordered in addition to the main kit, and I'm pondering throwing two or three more on there. This is working GREAT so far, folks. If I take the whole disk setup off, I would have an internal 2.5" ID straight tube of the same length as the original KT pipe; only flow difference would be the perforations around the inside. So I can basically go right back to the KT's performance any time I want. I'll play with more disks soon and report again. Once it feels right I'll dyno it. So far this looks like one hell of a good option. | ||
| S1_lightning_nl |
"So far this looks like one hell of a good option." It sure is and Summit price's! Now you can play around with those discs and move your power band. Have fun..... | ||
| Jimincalif |
One other bennie: if I go camping off-road, I don't have to worry about setting a grass fire with this setup. The original RS/RSS series had Supertrapps much like this one, so cosmetically I've really "gone back to old-school"  . | ||
| Sleez |
i run 18 discs with an open end cap (with the hole opened up even bigger), about 2-3 decibels lower than the last KT i tested. | ||
| Jimincalif |
And 18 disks with an opened endcap is probably doing almost as much power as a plain KT, if the rest of the pipe is any good. But just in the two days I ran the plain KT (and risked the wrath of my neigbors) I could tell that the power was moved WAY up the powerband. I doubt it would be a street-effective combination for canyon carving unless I was willing to throw enough money into the motor to move the redline up to at least the 7,200 - 7,500rpm range. Bottom end power was lacking and even the midrange felt a bit wiggy. It would "wake up hard" somewhere just north of 5k. OK on the track but...a bit much on the street. It feels decent now (12 disks, closed end) but I suspect I could do with two or three more disks. Past that...well hell, if I wanted "top end only" and have to shift like crazy to keep it on the boil I'd have bought a 600cc IL4 from Hondasaki. | ||
| Tsispyder |
so can someone list exactly what you need part number and link wise for those of us that are retarded. ok well for me | ||
| Jimincalif |
 I figured a night shot with flash would highlight the parts better...heh, highlighted some grime issues too. I ride all year and part of the road is a muddy mess of late. I'll do a day shot tomorrow, see what that looks like. This sort of thing MIGHT work with a Forcewinder pipe too. You'd have to measure the pipe diameter at the place you'd connect the Supertrapp - mufflers like this come with various inlet sizes from 2" to 3" at 1/4" intervals. Check the Summit Racing page under "Supertrapp" in the "by vendor" listings. The comical bit is, this isn't a bike part. It's a CAR part . Few if any bike shops will even know how to order this sucker. | ||
| Jimincalif |
One more thing - check this page: http://supertrapp.com/images/pdfs/univ-PRINT.pdf There are cheaper plain black versions available if cash is tight. The 18.5" body variants could fit. There's also a high-polish one but considering where it is, WHY? Warning: if I recall right from talking with the sales guy at Summit, the black variants don't have the mounting hardware, so you'd have to sort that out yourself. When picking one of these mufflers, the main things that matter are length and inlet pipe width. Get those right, it's doable. If you want max ground clearance on a street bike (versus drag or something) stay with 4" disks versus 5"...you can get as much flow with 4" as long as you use enough disks. If your disk pack gets long enough you'll need longer bolts; I strongly recommend stainless steel bolts to match everything else stainless so you can easily re-tune for later modifications. | ||
| Jimincalif |
Another pic, this in daylight:  This one shows an additional "custom bracket" - just a piece of scrap metal with two holes, nothing fancy. | ||
| Matty |
Right on! That's pretty similar to the Early factory race kits. | ||
| Jon |
Hey Jimi, This is good stuff for the Knowledge Vault as well. We'll copy this stuff and put it there. Way to go. | ||
| Jimincalif |
No problem. Been running this several days now and it is a GREAT solution. Funny thing about Supertrapps: you can read the disk "jetting" kinda like spark plugs. If the disks are sooty, you're too lean, add more disks. You are thus re-jetting the bike at the pipe instead of carb! With 12 disks it was sooty. I've added three more and it's close to spot on, I think it might take one more. Peak power, powerband and sound are all perfect. I'd bet good money something like this Supertrapp can be done with other pipes, possibly including Buell race pipes, later-model header pipes with 2.5" collectors, Forcewinders, God knows what else. Sure works GREAT on the KT though . |
