| Author | Message | ||
     Viggen |
}Wondering if I should upgrade the rear stoppers on my '95 S2, TBolt? I need to replace the rear master cylinder, I think. Any help would be great. }TXS, Griff | ||
| Aaomy |
just out of currosity,, what went wrong with your master cylinder... | ||
| Mbsween |
Viggen, The rear brake is actually very well setup for spirited riding. You can use it to slow down, but generally won't lock it, even if you get panicy and press down more than you need. The brake action is all up front on the Buell. remember, it takes a lot less force to lock the wheel when you're leaned over. Just my 0.02 Also the rebuild kit for the caliper is cheap. Couple that with a new set of pads and you'll have tons of rear brake | ||
| Chasespeed |
These things have a rear brake???? Funny, the only time I use it, is to control wheelies... these things have TONS of front brake force...use it... Chase | ||
| Firemanjim |
Viggen,ignore those folks.I use my rear brake all the time for many reasons.(And I have dual ISR 6 piston calipers on front, so pipe down.)You can swap out the rear master cylinder for a different bore size to get more power,have you already gone to a braided line? And if you want more, Performance Machine has a rear 2 piston caliper and maybe Brembo??Check with Al Lighton at American Sportbike Parts. | ||
| Aaomy |
viggen,, just out of curriosity did the plastic port where the resivour enters you master cylinder brake or blow out??? the plastic piece on mine was poorly molded or eaten away by something and spewed out all my brake fluid.. and yes you pretty much always want to use your rear brake also.. when i blew out the rear line on mine i wouldnt use the bike.. you can maintain much more control by the use of both brakes,, | ||
| Viggen |
Aaomy,,i'm not sure. i had the dealer do the brake pads because i lost braking authority on the rear. upon getting the bike back out on the road, there was still no rear brake. i went back to the dealer and the wrench suggested that the master must be bad. he never tested the bike after doing the pads. | ||
| Spiderman |
Check your pot for movent. I had a guy come to my garage with the same symptoms, I replaced the rear caliper (all it needed was a re-build, I had a extra caliper but no re-build kit) with the correct bleeding they thing was braking like a champ. So check the rear pot for movement before goin further... | ||
| Court |
This is not THE Viggen I think is it? Welcome. Court | ||
| Viggen |
firemanjim,,i've still got the stock lines in place. i assumed that i would need some brake out back to get through the Virginia State Safety inspection that is due. i noticed that American Sport Bike has a dual piston caliper kit for $400.00 is it worth the $$$? i have not talked to Al yet. | ||
| Viggen |
Court,,How are you? this is the same guy. it's been a while. Griff | ||
| Viggen |
TXS Spiderman. is there anyone working on Buells in the northern VA area that i can pay for good work? | ||
| Firemanjim |
Sand off the rotor and pads with some 220 grit and bleed the system with new fluid.Look at the Knowledge Vault for the best way.Should make a world of difference.I like my PM rear for its stopping power.Rear rubber line can lessen an already weak rear brake.When new my S-2 would lock up if you really stood on it so they can be made to work well. | ||
| Viggen |
Firemanjim,,Thanks for the info.I'm going to check out the knowledge vault for the best options.Is American Sport Bike the best place for the SS brake lines? | ||
| Spiderman |
Sorry, don't know anyone in the VA area. But if you are willing to travel  Like FMJ said and I said try bleeding first and sanding the rotor. It may save ya $$$$ | ||
| Ara |
In the latest edition of American Motorcyclist, Lance Oliver has a good article on the Kevin Schwantz Suzuki School. He quotes Kevin saying that he never uses the rear brake because the three times he used it in a race he wound up on his back! I have to keep reminding myself that the thing HAS a rear brake. | ||
| Bomber |
Schwantz never uses his rear brake -- Doohan had a thumb brake lever instlled so he COULD use his (in spite of an injured foot) -- while interesting, I'm not sure either of these data points has much to do with our riding, either on the street on on the track -- what we do and what they do have little in common other than we are all on motorcycles (if I buy the right shoes, I'll be able to play round ball like Micheal Jordon) . . . . . me, I use mine alla time if you don't, and you're happy with that, excellent for those that havn't made up their minds, give both a shot and see what YOU think American Sport Bike IS the best place to get the braided line -- works aces, and really improved the feel of my rear brake YAY Al! | ||
| Buellzebub |
F.W.I.W. the rear brakes are a bear to bleed properly, i thought i had a bad master cylinder until the system was vacuum bled. | ||
| Jayvee |
Can you say more about "vacuum bled" ? I couldn't find any thing useful with the search. | ||
| Jayvee |
Never mind, I found this explanation: http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-technical-articles/bleeding-motorcycle-br akes/bleeding-motorcycle-brakes.htm and it's enough. I already got one of those vacuum pumps, so I'm half-way there. Good tip ! thansk... | ||
| Firemanjim |
I have never had good luck with the vaacuum pumps on motorcycle brakes.I am using a big syringe from work to force the fluid back through the bleeder.Works super fast,just watch the master cylinder for bubbles and when they stop you are good. | ||
| Henrik |
My preferred method for brake bleeding: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/174272.html?1139415194 Henrik | ||
| Leftcoastal |
I've tried the "Mighty-Vac" and had varying results - mostly poor to dismal. Where might someone procure one of those "big syringes"? AL | ||
| Firemanjim |
Animal feed store,medical supply house.Live close to me. I have also used ,with some success, one of the pumps meant for going on a bottle of gear oil and pumping it into trans etc.It threaded right onto a brake fluid bottle I had,and I ran the hose to the bleed screw and pumped the brake fluid in. | ||
| Jimincalif |
I think all Buell rear brakes are fine as shipped and need no "upgrades" whatsoever. They should however be restored to stock strength whenever something is wrong. When you're hard into a turn, the last bit of brake you can safely use is to feather the rear brake. Canyon racers circa late 1980s when I started often deliberately weakened their rear brakes through a variety of tricks depending on the type, because the skinnier and harder tires of the day would break loose much faster than the big meats we run. Just as today, we could feather the rear brake for some final mid-corner adjustments when riding fast on the street. The remaining vestige of this thinking shows up in how small the rear brake is compared to the front. The other reason you want a weaker rear brake is that weight transfer to the front happens no matter which brake you crank on. As the front gets heavier the rear end unloads and wants to skid easier...while at the same time the front resists skidding the more weight you throw at it. In straight line braking you want to start out with a decent pulse of rear brake to go with the front, stabilizing both ends, but then ease up on the rear as you load up the front. I run stock brakes on my '97 S3 except for a stainless brake line up front. The rear is the original rubber line and I have no plans to upgrade; if I get a good deal on a White Lightning-spec front caliper I may upgrade the front some although I don't see it as critical. I will NOT upgrade the rear under any circumstances and I recommend nobody else do so on any Buell. | ||
| Ara |
The rear brake is hard to bleed because of the brake light switch in mid-line. Al at American Sport Bike advises that you bleed the line with the caliper off the bike and elevated. Otherwise you'll never get rid of the little bubble of air that gets caught at the switch - you'll just be pumping fluid underneath the bubble. When I get my new SS line from Al I'm going to employ his method and Henrich's syringe method simultaneously. | ||
| Henrik |
For syringes, do a search for "60cc catheter tip syringe" Henrik | ||
| Jimincalif |
Am I the only one who actually prefers NOT to have the rear brake set off the brake light, so as to do a "stealthy speed fade" in front of cops?  | ||
| Jackbequick |
So here on eBay is 25 of those syringes for $9.00 ($12.00 for a Buy It Now). http://tinyurl.com/pchyd Henrik, please let us know if those are not the right ones. Shipping will run about the same probably. So that gets 25 of them to someone for less than a buck each. With some cheap mailers you could probably turn those around First Class mail to anywhere in the U.S. for another buck. So that's about two bucks (sounds like a chicken) or maybe $2.50 to cover the cost of the mailers. You guys just have to figure out who wants to take charge of the project. My Mity-Vac will both suck and blow so I can use that and don't need a syringe. Jack | ||
| Henrik |
Jack: yep, those syringes would work. I'm set as far as syringes go though, so someone else would need to run with that project. Henrik | ||
| Jayvee |
Hey JimInCalif ran that trick on an old Japaness bike with a long-travel rear brake pedal. Adjusted rear brake light switch so if you just brake a little, to medium, the light would not come on, only if you stomped on it then the light would come on. Hey Henrik, nice write-up, but it's for the FRONT. Any other advice, regarding the brake-light switch problem mentioned? | ||
| Firemanjim |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PERFORMANCE-MACHINE-RR-POL-CALIPER95-02-BUELL-DS3 25851_W0QQitemZ4625256533QQcategoryZ35557QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Here is another PM. | ||
| Bomber |
JV I foiund that using Henrik's push-pull method, with the rear caliper elevated above the master cyclinder, worked aces on my rear brake -- note, I also, as a matter of course, during any brake bleeding effort, tap any junctions in the system with a screwdriver handle -- this seems to loosen any bubbles a little more easily also, once your done, activate the brake control (lever of pedal) and leave it activated overnight -- this, I am told, puts the bubbles under pressure, makes them smaller -- then, the next morning, tap all the juntions again, and test the controls -- I'm betting you have brakes that are far better than when you got the bike new (at least, that was the case with my Y2K MaDeuce, which had powerful, but a lillte mushy, brake when new -- don't know if that's a factory or dealership responsibility, but there you are) |
