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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archives OSB 001 » Archive through March 23, 2006 » Valve to Piston Question « Previous Next »

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Stricnine
Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I pulled my heads off today to see that my front intake valve is hitting my piston and the rear exhaust is hitting. I have Andrews N8 cams and adjustable pushrods. Would this be the source off my problem or does someone know a way to correct this. Thanks
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Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ouch!
timing / PR adjust?

sorry to hear it..
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Stricnine
Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 07:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Oldog. I was thinking probably pushrod adjustment, but wasn't sure. It didn't hit too bad, but bad enough that I could hear it. Good thing I didn't ride it after I heard it.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 08:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's scary.
The lifters adjusted correctly?
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Pammy
Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 10:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you didn't let the lifters bleed down(totally) during the pushrod adjustment, the valves would be partially open before you turn the motor. You have to be able to spin the pushrod after adjustment. This insures that the valve is closed.

The first scenerio would certainly cause the valves to touch the pistons. I am assuming you are using the same parts that you had before(bike running), so you know the clearances are correct.

Make sure you didn't "tweak" the valves.
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Stricnine
Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 03:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Guys. I haven't checked the valves yet. They don't appear to be bent but then again appears is the key word.
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Bluelightning
Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Assuming that these are new cams and you are just doing this work, did you have your heads off? If you did you may want to go back and check your clearances again. Also make sure you adjust your push rods properly, and like Pammy said, let them bleed down totally (so you can spin them in your fingers) before rolling the motor to the next rod.
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Stricnine
Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 05:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Bluelightning. I was thinking of going with a set of Jim's lifters. What would determine if I needed anything other than standard size (and how do I check).
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 05:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Going to go to completely solid lifters?
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Oldog
Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 12:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stricnine:

If the valves or pistons are not damaged I for one would be supprised. a collision would probably bend the valve head relitave
to the stem. It may be worth doing a leak down Test to check valve integrity

Me I'm stupid I would have the top end apart for a look , then re assemble you are into at least 100$ for gaskets and consumables (depending on the local market)

What say you Pammy?
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Oldog
Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 12:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From above is there some reason to use solid lifters? The N8 cams are relitavely mild.
IIRC the X1 cams are n6 or similar

Oh while you are in there you want to change the oil pump drive gear on the crank to the improved bronze one.
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Bluelightning
Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd stay away from solid lifters, that is unless you want to continually have the need/desire to adjust your pushrods. The Jims hydrosolids are great lifters, but for the money, I actually run new stockers units with my 630 lift Knight Prowler cams, Crane pushrods, and Stage III heads. I thought about the JIMS, but for the money, I can wear out and change 3 sets of the stock lifters or just buy 1 set of the JIMS for the same money. just my thought, though.

Definitely do the drive gear change, for $50, it is a good piece of mind upgrade.
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Rocketman
Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I run Jim's Hydrosolid's against N9's and Taperlite adjustable pushrods. There are no issues and they don't need constant adjustment.

When I stripped the motor after 9000 miles of running this set-up, the pushrods were still in adjustment.

Rocket
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Bluelightning
Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 07:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's because they are hydraulic lifters until you hit the higher rpms, then they act like solids. I was referring to if he wanted to run completely solid lifters is when constant adjustment would come into play.


Hydrosolids are great lifters, I just can't see paying that much for them.
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Stricnine
Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 07:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys. Where do I get the drive gear upgrade and is it a simple install.
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Aaomy
Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

oldog is referring to the oil pump drive gear, its a good move to replace it. go with the bronze one,, it will run you around 50 bucks at you local buell dealer.. if you are going threw all this you should really check you cam timing,, make sure you have everything in their correct. as far as lifters go, stick with hydrolic,, solids were nice back in the day,today al's growth rate makes hydrolic much more practical, crane makes very affordable hydrolic ones.. think when i bought them i payed like 14-16 bucks a pop.. if you did bend a valve,, also check the valve guide for cracks,
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