| Author | Message | ||
     Chris806 |
Hi..I just acquired a 1990 RS 1200 and have a lot of questions as no owners/service manual came with the bike. I hope someone on here can assist me so I can get this beauty running. The bike was in storage for 8 years. I'm wondering what the colored switch on the fairing near the left grip is/and where to find a replacement as it is broken. The bike has PM brakes on the front and a Gambler brake on the rear..anyone have part numbers for replacement pads (and where to get them)..and the part number for the air filter would be helpful too!! I bought and installed a new battery tonight on getting her home and plan on draining the fuel tank, replacing all fluids, plugs, air filter before attempting to start the bike. Also..anyone experience any tranny problems with the RS..the previous owner said the bike won't shift into 4th..said it was a common problem on the 4 speeds..I'm a little worried that if I have to replace something it may be obsolete from HD (I couldn't beat the deal on the bike, that's why I took problems and all!!) | ||
| Loki |
first answer is the switch if for the main /reserve fuel valves on the tank. second answer is any parts store for the switch. third... front PM should accecpt any pad for a six pot PM. Contact Al at American Sport Bike, Daves at Appleton Buell, Clown, etc. Look at the sponsor links. fourth, the Gambler on the back will be a wild card. Gambler's focus has changed over the years as the Sprint Car world has changed. five, air filter should just be a stock sportster element. six, as for the tranny. I can't help there as mine is a five speed. As for engine parts? no need to worry in that department. Just speak sportster(your year model) at a HD/Buell dealer. As for any body pieces, AirTech may be the only source. Post pics as these beasts are getting rarer by the hour. and to think I am a fairly new owner of a RS. | ||
| Chris806 |
Thanks for the insight. I'm trying to decide if I want to strip down the bike and totally clean/polish everything, or just make the repairs and ride!! The body work is in great shape with the exception of some oxidation on the PM wheels. Did you end up replacing the sprockets and chain on yours, and if you did....sizes, brand names, parts numbers etc.? Is the seat only held on by the front tab and the flip down back rest?? I'm still hoping some others can add some info, especially on the tranny not wanting to shift in to 4th (any ideas) and things I need to be on the lookout for with this bike....thanks again to all... | ||
| Josh_ |
I made the basic repairs and rode mine until it needed more repairs (fork seals went) then pulled it apart and worked it over. (Forks, shock, tires, front brakes (flush/fill F/R), tires, battery, carb (98 S1 w/accel pump), chain) Ran great and got my my only ticket to date on a motorcycle (55 in 35MPH curves - oops) Good luck with the rear brake, I'd look into getting the existing pads re-shoed. Hopefully they stored it w/o gas in the tank. Lots of us are having problems with new gas formulations destroying the original tank liner over time. I don't know anything about 4spds either, sorry. Seat is held down by front tab and velcro at the back (I think). I put some plastic and tape down over the body work to keep the set from rubbing. The RS takes a "530 pitch" - 106 link chain. It came with a Diamond ($80 from Buell) but the new o-rings like Tsubaki are much better). I put a Tsubaki X-Ring on mine. Hopefully Court will see these posts and get a manual to you. He might be able to get a copy of the original build sheet if you get him your VIN. (Message edited by josh_ on February 01, 2006) | ||
| Court |
E-mail me your V.I.N, your contact information and any details you can to share. These are pieces of art and I can get you fixed right up. Be CERTAIN to put 1990 Buell RS-1200 in the subject....I'm running, twinst a powerplant going on line, a new consulting gig and the XBRR, over 200 e-mails a day. I'll get back to you. Court | ||
| Loki |
Court, You really need to get a helper. More of an apprentice type of elf. | ||
| Chris806 |
Court..I'll send you the e-mail. Again, Thanks to all. Unfortunately, the bike was left sitting up with a full tank of fuel. I don't know what this will do to the inner liner....? The outer surface has some bubbling near the fuel cap, I'm going to live with this for now. The seat is not secured with anything other than the front tab, I'll be placing some velcro down for extra security. The shock has been replaced with what appears to be a newer Works Performance unit. I replaced the battery with a Harley AGM the first day. The bike has 10,000 miles. Within the next week or two (depending on my work schedule, and the availability of my buddies lift!) I'll start the complete fluid replacement and getting the bike running to make an estimate of what is ailing the transmission. The Dunlop tires look good, the forks have no leaks and the engine appears to be oil tight. I started cleaning the bike last night. Anyone have thoughts on the best way to polish the pitting and light rust spotting on the wheels..? Thought about getting a buffing attachment for my drill and using some type of polishing compound to facilitate this..anyone attempted this? Your thoughts and ideas on this and anything else I might encounter/anticipate with the mileage and the fact the bike sat up so long would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Buellbozo |
Chris, Congrats on your treasure!! And thats exactly what it is. This is a trick I've used re: PM polished wheels. You can't get rid of pits w/o removing metal. On my S3t, I started with red,metal abrasive Scotchbrite.Takes lots of elbow grease.I used WD-40 to lube and help clear the residue. Then, repeat with red Scotchbrite with Mother's polish. Finally, Mother's with a rag. Works well for me. Please look closely at your tires as lots of tread on an old tire doesn't mean the tire is good. Any sign of checking or tiny cracks means the carcass is deteriorating. Lets see some pix of that bad boy!! Usual disclaimer applies...  | ||
| Leftcoastal |
What Buellbozo said re: the wheels is your best bet to restore the shine. I used a little polishing wheel on a dremel tool to get some of the tight spots on my '91 RS, and it worked really well. I once asked one of the guys at Performance Machine what the best way was to polish their wheels (your wheels are the 'Chicane' model by them, if I'm not mistaken) and he said "send 'em in to us!". That could be an expensive proposition! So I went with the old, tried and true 'mid-upper appendage movable joint lubricant' method. Back brake - don't get your hopes up too high on having any real function there, pads or no pads. My rear caliper has been changed to a 4 piston Jay Brake unit, and it hasn't proven to be a working installation as yet. I sent my Gambler unit to Roger in Chicago as he was doing a resto on his RS. My personal opinion is that having the word "Gambler" on a part of a machine that you are placing your life on it's proper function is a bit of an oxy-moron. What were they thinking? Yea guys - I know..."famous Sprint car parts manutacturer bla bla bla." Court is the busiest person on the western hemisphere - DO NOT hold your breath as you await your manual! You may have to "remind" him (hint hint, wink) occasionally! AL | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Hello Chris806: Thought I should start posting. I have recently bought a 1989 RS1200 #4. Concerning your question, "I'm wondering what the colored switch on the fairing near the left grip is/and where to find a replacement as it is broken." That is the Reserve Fuel switch. Forward the main gas valve is open. Back & the main and reserve gas valves are both open. (These are electric valves on the rear of the gas tank.) I just replaced mine. Found it at Auto Zone for $3.99. Should find it at any parts store. NOTE: Be sure to wire it correctly!! Concerning the rear brake: I have two S3's and the RS1200. The rear brake is of little use on any of them. I have a PM rear brake on one of the S3's. I can lock up the rear, but that hardly slows down the bike much. Moral: Learn to use the front brake effectively. Concerning brake pads and other parts for the "Buell American Motorcycle Inc." bike. Try Eric Buells' Assistant, Kim W., for all your RW, RR, RS needs. She is a GREAT person with all the factory contacts. Many of your parts are still available. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on February 02, 2006) | ||
| Josh_ |
>NOTE: Be sure to wire it correctly!! Got any tips on that? I need to reinstall my tank and I think I lost my notes. Kim will generally send you to Tom Anglim or Dan Lang to get you parts. Some are getting in short supply. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
On my '89. The front contact(Supply) is Red, and goes to B on the ignition switch & back to the Main gas valve. The center contact (Acc.) is Green, and goes to the Reserve gas valve. The back contact (Gnd.) is Black and is connected to the frame. (The ground is there for the light inside the switch to turn on, when the switch is rocked back to reserve.) | ||
| 89rs1200 |
P.S. Kim just found some Corbin seats, if you need one. (I understand these were stock for '91 & '92.) My stock '89 seat has 1/2" padding, and will make a grown man cry. | ||
| Grndskpr |
I have recently bought a 1989 RS1200 #4. So we know where #4 and #6 need to find, 1 2 3 5 7 8 9 R |
