Author |
Message |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 06:48 am: |
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I saw these on the Pingel site. What are they and why use them? Or...why not use them? |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 10:12 pm: |
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Those are to help your bike vibrate more. |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Friday, January 27, 2006 - 04:51 am: |
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Have you tried them? |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Friday, January 27, 2006 - 05:12 am: |
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No, I was being a smartass. Those are just metal inserts that eliminate the rubbermounting of the engine. I would guess that the only people that would want this would be racers. |
Bomber
| Posted on Friday, January 27, 2006 - 09:18 am: |
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Silas -- I've riden an S1 with em -- the DO make the handling an RCH (little bit) more precise by eliminating the rubber isos, but I couldn't tell the difference until I got to 9/10s (that's MY 9/10s, which is likely others 4/10s, btw) what I COULD feel, always, was an increased amount of vibration -- small increase at some RPMs, very large at others -- Nate has it right, I think, racers would be interested, but mere mortals (and folks that are seeking tires for the elderly {which would include me, most days}) won't get much from the effort except, of course, ooohhhhh aaaahhhhh at your sunday morning hangout from the one other tuber guy ;-} |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Friday, January 27, 2006 - 10:49 pm: |
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Well, I lost the urge to own them, thanks for explaining. |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Saturday, January 28, 2006 - 12:55 am: |
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I would guess that the only people that would want this would be racers. Or people like me, who wouldnt mind the extra vibes, and slightly harsher ride...the compared to the tradeoff of having to replace isolaters... But, the X1, has a nice feature, taht makes that a bit easier than, say an M2 or S1... Chase} Chase |
Bluelightning
| Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 09:41 pm: |
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\ Gotta love my X-1 |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 10:51 pm: |
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How do you tell if your left rear isolator is shot? How hard is it to replace on an M2? |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 02:19 am: |
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How do you tell if your left rear isolator is shot? How hard is it to replace on an M2? Well, the first one, I leave to others, as they might have an easier way of explaining... The second, well, lets say, after you are done, you will be thinking about hose Pingles for the next job...did both an M2 AND an S1...what a PITA. Did another guys X1, that little removeable plate, is great for road side belt changes, AND isolators.... All I have to say is, at least I dont have to fight the frame on a X1...BUT, dont let that scare you off...if you decent mech abilities, you will be okay, but plan to spend some time on the job... Chase} |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 05:46 am: |
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ooooh, that sounds like "not fun" but maybe an excuse to execute the new oil pump gear, new xb rocker box covers, new front iso head bolts, new rear belt and trim the timing cover so it looks "racy" mods... |
Bomber
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 01:34 pm: |
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visually inspect the Iso for cracks, tears and twisting (there is a casting line on the rubber that will reveal the latter) if the isos on the 99 are original, I'd replace em -- although it IS a PITA, it's only a day's worth of work -- see the ATC page for a great write up on the process -- and make sure you 've got a buddy to help with the installation (removal is a one-person job) |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 09:10 pm: |
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I got a little footpeg vibe in the left peg and the isolator looks like it "sags" more than the right. I first noticed the vibe at hiway+ speeds. I thought it might be the primary so that precipitated my changing to the upgraded shoe and then adjusting the primary. Smoother but still a hint at what had been a realllly smooooooth ride at 70-80 mph. I am anal when it comes to this critter, so who knows? |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 10:55 pm: |
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I think you have to use a bottle jack and a block of wood to pry apart the back of the frame for clearance. I have no idea why they would have only ONE model that has the sneaky side door and leave al the others with a PITA frame. I could understand if ALL of them had the trapdoor. I could understand if NONE of them had the trapdoor. Why would you make one bike easy and the others sucky? (not the bike, just the maintainance aspect! no kill! no kill!) |
89rs1200
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 01:33 pm: |
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If you are mechanically inclined, this job is easy. I have replaced these on all 3 of my S3's. * Just take care and DO NOT cross thread the Torx Bolts! * Pin length is CRITICAL!! If too long, it will cause premature failure by forcing the rubber to separate from the metal. * Please use the Torx Bolts! They stay out of the way better than the allens. * For '97 & '98 I recommend you take off the exhaust first. This allows for more clearance. Do yourself a favor and buy the latest rear isolators that have the metal "Wings" or "Ears". These can carry more weight, and last much longer. Part Numbers: Left L0504.9, Right L0505.9, Torx Bolt AA106.10FKZB Isolator Kit (If you can find it.) Z0010.CB http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/bulletins/Isolators96-00.pdf http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/isotool.php http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/103797.html?1114832200 |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 03:30 pm: |
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What does ATC, as in: "the ATC method", stand for? |
Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 07:33 pm: |
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ATC = AMericanthunder etc etc link above -- they are another great Buell site, with some great specific procedures (like ISO R&R) -- the removable frame member that allows SOME buellers to R&R their ISOs so easily are, I'm thinkin, fairly expensive, and were included only on some models -- |
Tombo
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 09:09 pm: |
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I have replaced many isolators and prefer the ATC method (it is less stress on the upper isolator and frame). The method was developed using my S1 by an excellent engineer, mechanic, and friend. It basically involves removing the swingarm carrier. It helps to modify and fabricate a few simple tools, including bending a box-end wrench and making a set of isolator compressors (you can do this with a couple of washers, bolts and by separating the metal backing plates of your worn out isolators). I believe the ATC site still has the instructions posted (that S1 in the pictures is still on the road by the way). You might also find the same instructions elsewhere on the Web (some of the articles I wrote at the time seem to pop-up in a couple of different places. As far as the Pingles (use to be Bartells) are concerned, I tried them and had to turn around and remove them before taking my planned ride. The handling is a bit tighter, but the vibes make a pre-rubber sporty feel like a Gold Wing. |
Thunderbolt3
| Posted on Sunday, February 05, 2006 - 04:52 pm: |
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i knew mine was bad on my s3t becausethe handing went to terrible like a bucking bronco about ten hour in the garage $60.00 and brand new. a couple of pics |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, February 05, 2006 - 07:42 pm: |
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Isolators are easy to change !!! Make your own special tools !!! The way the FACTORY MOTOR MANUAL says change them is "BUELLschitte" !!! |
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