| Author | Message | ||
     Gearhead |
I've got it bad to build a track bike! An XB is out because of the high price of admission, used or wrecked. What are the realities of building an M2 track bike? I'm not a serious racer but I'd like something I can continue to improve my skills on with minimal costs. An SV650 probably makes more sence but I'd really like to ride a Buell. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! | ||
| Benm2 |
1. Rearsets, the stock M2 pegs are really low. 2. See if you can track down a bellypan. No need to make enemies at the track. 3. Clip-ons, if you like them. More "track position" than the stock bars. 4. Remove, clean, and retorque your primary drive sprocket nut. Not required, but a damn good idea. If its truly track only, remove all the lights & blinkers, passenger pegs, etc. You can probably still find the S1 / X1 race fairings around if you go that route. That should about do it. I made my rearsets from 1/2" aluminum stock, a hacksaw, a file, and a drill. I had to get a longer shifter arm too. If you do it, remember to pre-flight check the exhaust header stud nuts a couple of times during the day. And bring spare engine oil, you'll use a little. (really, just a little) | ||
| Rick_a |
XB9's with light crash damage can be found for pretty good prices. Really, it takes a lot of time and money to make a tuber handle anywhere nearly as well a stock XB. Even after having gone that far, the XB's are still far more stable, composed, quicker steering, and are far easier to lean over especially on transitions from one side to the other. I prefer tubers for streetbikes, but I want an XB track bike badly! | ||
| Chasespeed |
Belly pan, and racec faring, www.airtech-streamlining.com under X1 or S1 section... Teh ones I have seen for M2s arent really that high...My x1 pegs were a bit higher than the M2, adn with my rearsets, I dont htink I have touched peg yet...though, I have drug my toesliders a couple times with them... But, if its just to learn, I say go for it, safety wire everything, get a belly pan, tape the lights...give it a whirl...if you drag peg...try to make some rear set, or buy some...LSL, Banke..who ever... Crossroads, makes some nice bars...clip on style..and tehn some actual clip ons.. If you are going to use it as a street ride as well, dont go overboard, as, it will start to become a pain(literally) to ride for long distances... Other wise, get teh XB, teh XB_r is pretty good to go from the start(from what I can tell)...safety wire, tape, and play... My 2 cents... Chase | ||
| Ricky |
http://seattle.craigslist.org/mcy/121159449.html This would be a lot cheaper to start out on. Ride it for one year then resell at the same price next year. 1997 Honda CBR F3 race bike, great condition - $2400 Reply to: sale-121159449@craigslist.org Date: 2005-12-28, 10:58PM PST This is my track bike, I hate to sell it but I need the money The bike has been through wmrra inspections and passed everytime The bikes in great condition besides a few scratches from laying it down in turn two on a practice run. This bike has lots done and would be a competitive machine Heres whats done: Race teck front fork springs Hyper teck rear shock and spring Steel braided brake lines Steering dampener Vortex rear sets (shifter pegs, brake lever) Vortex clip on's Vortex rear sprocket, one down also have a sprocket thats two down New DnD chain Aftermarket race exhaust Full after market body Race tires with one weekend at the track, lots of tread life left The bike also comes with race stand, extra engine, new vortex complete rear set (shifter side), subframe. The bike may need a new battery, I did not trickle charge it over winter months so it may not hold a charge The bike is not stolen but does not come with title, as you don't need one for racing If you want to get the title to make it a street bike you will have to contact the state and jump through some hoops, but by summer time you will have it street legal. I'm looking for $2500 OBO, there’s lots more in the bike than what I'm asking for. If you have any questions please feel free to ask, thanks and hope to hear from you soon YOSH (206) 718-8258 (206) 363-9653 * this is in or around Shoreline | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Not to start anything but IMO, go for the Tuber... it handles the same, if not better than an XB9R and has a ton more torque. But the best thing you can do is try and test ride the 2 back to back (I did that just today). | ||
| Ltwt29 |
I'm planning on racing a 2001 x1 this year with very little mods. , so it'll be supersport legal, I've done mostly suspension, and chain conversion.go for it. my friend races an s1 and my brother will be on a xb. | ||
| Rick_a |
I'd have to disagree with that statement. Tubers are a lot of fun but the XB's are a lot more refined, and are an all around sharper tool. Then again, a good rider can go fast on just about anything, though. | ||
| Jmkash |
A buddy of mine has an XB9R. I worked him over like a 10 dollar hooker lookin at a 100 dollar bill. Its a damn fine bike, but I smoked him. Both bikes are fun as hell to ride. Hells bells you guys all know this anyhow though. Im preachin to the choir here lol. I love my S1W, what can I say! | ||
| Rick_a |
Ride an XB12 or a hopped up '9 and a tuber back to back. You'll see what I'm sayin'. | ||
| Paint_shaker |
The XB and the tubers each have their merits. Other than a stock XB9, I believe it would boil down to preference and familuarity (spelling?) Though probably not feasible, the best thing would be able to test ride both style bikes. I have done this on the street, but not on the track. Either way, both style of bikes are way more capable than I. | ||
| Fusa21 |
Facts are facts, XBs are a more stable bike that give a rider more feedback, they are yes...less powerful when talking XB9R vs. S1/X1... but we're not talking straight line here. We are talking racing. I have seen many a XB WAX tubers. Point in case, Paul James...CCS #247 went from a tuber to an XB9 and improved his lap times tremendously...and it was stock other than some suspension pieces that didn't fade toward the end of the race. (A stock shock on every bike made will not last in a race for more than 4-5 laps.) I think the point we need to make for Gearhead, is that a tubeframe bike is what we all started on... he certainly can begin there, get some time in the seat and move on if he likes. I for example just sold my S1 for $2500 including all the goodies. They are out there. Call up Kegel's H-D and ask for Mark Bernard, I think he's got one for sale. It put him on the podium at Daytona this fall. (Message edited by fusa21 on January 14, 2006) | ||
| Ceejay |
A tuber is like a bareknuckle redneck, will kick your a-- and probably spit in your face, tough as hell but not quite right...an XB is like the same bareknuckle redneck but got sent to military school, will still kick your a-- but says no sir and yes maam.... | ||
| Djkaplan |
I'm thinking the best stategy for a track only M2 would be to get the peg clearance issue resolved, get some real clip-ons and spend most of your money on a good rear shock and fork kit. The last gen M2 needs more steering input than any other Buell and it gets more trucklike when you have lower, narrower handlebars. You'll have to work harder than if you were on an XB, or even an X1. Lot's of interesting possibilities for mods, though. I'd love to try it with an M2..., too. | ||
| Rick_a |
Tubers work pretty well with the rear end raised about an inch...really reduces steering effort and increases response. The X1's benefit from the ground clearance but can get a bit twitchy, from what I've heard. |
