| Author | Message | ||
     Musqaush |
I am curious if i told an untrue statement about buell rear brake assemblies not braking as good due to being a racing brake !I did not think the statement had much validity ,,but being a new buell owner i am ignorant to that information ,,, if not i believe a serious bleeding session could not hurt unless thats how the factory made them! | ||
| Chasespeed |
Yeah, the rear brake in only good fro coaxing hte front tire back to planet earth... There is a 2 pot caliper upgrade avail, check American Sport Bike, I know Al has one... But truthfully, I really dont use mine...except as noted...or for just aiding in compression braking...thats it.... But yeah, Buell had that caliper, "deliberatly" aneamic.... Chase (Message edited by chasespeed on August 03, 2005) | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I've been told the same thing, but I like my back brake so I had a stainless line made. Improved power and feel - not amazing but more like a normal bike... -Mike | ||
| Bomber |
stainless line, rebuilt stock caliberwith a really complete bleeding (tough to do) works pretty darned well as well as a really complete bleeding (tough to do) -- I use it alla time -- the statement that it's deliberately weak is likely only partially true -- nuthin to cheer about, but up to the task | ||
| Tramp |
I use my stock rear brake, primarily. I have to call ahead for 'stopping' reservations, but it's fine... | ||
| Musqaush |
Sweet just wasnt sure if i was being bs,,ed but thought id ask some with experience ,,yeah im used to a little more brake in the rear ,,if i hadnt known before hand ida relied too much on it ! But quickly learned where the real brake is! once again thanx for the knowledge! | ||
| Jackbequick |
I always load the back brake at least a little in stopping. I think its a good habit and keeps your mind in the mode that you have two of them and one may be better than the other in some situations. I've made a lot of hard stops with the M2 since I got it just to get a feel for the brakes. I do them in a straight line on open roads, clear both ways, and from 60 or 70 miles an hour. I still have not decided how much harder I can use the front without locking it up but I'm not in a hurry to find that point either. I quickly learned that I can't downshift fast enough to keep up with the deceleration from the brakes and get any engine braking. Does the front brake tend to send any signals as you get nearer to locking it up? Any noises or anything? Jack | ||
| Chasespeed |
Jack, when the rear wheehe ground starts coming off the ground...you really dont want to squeeze much harder... Chase | ||
| Littlebuggles |
In my experience It's kind of subtle, kind of not, before the front end locks up, (at speed) you'll feel the front end start to really load up, maybe a little squawk from the front tire and the back will feel pretty light. When it locks up (at speed) you can count on the front washing to one side if you don't get off the brake in a hurry. Did this once slowing hard for a turn on my old bike (Suzuki GS500), locked up but recovered once off, then on the brakes again. Done once on my M2, the feeling was very much the same. 'Course endo's are something else entirely - I have no experience there and don't pretend any stunting knowledge. edit - to answer the question, I haven't noticed any specific signals from the front brake but information came from suspension and tires. (Message edited by littlebuggles on August 03, 2005) | ||
| Chasespeed |
Believe me when I tell you, I have no desire to stunt... Someone pull out in front of you...you hit brakes.. then you end up roing a stoppie @ 50 or so...thinking...HOLY****, rear end settels back down with a slam.... Just the opposite drag racing...but I have become accostomed to the front not toucing the ground for a long time, during hard acceleration...not high liek stunters..but its up there.. I dunno, but let me tell you, I would much ratehr drag knee, and peg, than have less than 2 wheels on the ground.... Chase | ||
| Blake |
Jack, What Chase said. You won't be locking up the front brake on dry pavement. The rear end will be lifting off long before that.  | ||
| Littlebuggles |
November of 02 I locked up front and rear in an effort to avoid an accident. Braking hard wasn't working so I got more aggressive. Pavement was dry but tires (D205's) and road were cool - upper 40's, low 50's. Back end did not leave the ground until impact. Amazingly the bike stayed vertical even though both tires were sliding. That was with the original brake set up. | ||
| Hotrodsportster |
Being an older dirt bike rider for several years has conditioned us to use the rear brake a lot. We have upgraded to SS line and the Brembo two (2) piston rear brake package available from Al as well as QTM. For only $400 +/- $ you can double your braking capabilities. Somewhere in our race shop computer, we have measured stopping distances with and without the Brembo rear setup. I'll see if we can locate it next week, and post it in the KV. Ride Safe | ||
| Denfromphilly |
The Buell factory guys say the rear brake is purposefully weak. They say that the short wheel base and powerful front brake reduces weight/traction on the rear wheel. If the rear brake was too strong it would skid to easy and cause more high side crashes. This is part of the sales pitch they give to all riders before the factory sponsored rides at dealers. Grab a big handful of front brake like in a panic and the rear tire comes off the ground. It did not lock the front tire. I have done a front tire lock on my gold wing a couple times, once in a corner, didn't T up the handlebars in an emergency and dropped it. Once in traffic and it was OK. The rear coming off the ground happens in an instant if you grab too much brake in a panic stop. Scary and it actually stopped in plenty of time, was an overreaction on my part. Ride and learn....hopefully. (Message edited by denfromphilly on August 04, 2005) | ||
| Jackbequick |
Thanks guys! Lots of useful info there. I thought I had been stopping hard but maybe I haven't been. :>  I like the back brake as it is, I don't really think it needs to be any better for street riding. But when I seen an oncoming car signalling a left turn or I'm coming up on an intersection and there two or three cars projecting some accident potential, it is the two fingers on the front brake that makes me feel better about it. Jack | ||
| Ara |
Last night I was installing new rear brake pads on my '97 S3 and when I pulled the caliper out to work on it, I noticed for the first time that the brake line was badly abraded. Apparently it has been rubbing against the oil drain plug, and was worn almost through to the interior. If I hadn't found it in time I'd have had two problems: no rear brakes and a rear tire covered in brake fluid. I advise every tuber owner to do a visual inspection ASAP. | ||
| Dave |
Ara: The brake line replacement was part of the recalls performed in '99. Perhaps yours was never accomplished? The new hose has an almost glassy covering on it. The old hose seemed more matt finished. DAve | ||
| Ara |
Thanks, Dave. I never received the recall. Oh well. I've got a braided stainless brake line coming from American Sport Bike. The problem will be solved shortly. I bet bleeding the system after a brake line change will be a pain. If there's a trick to making it easier and insuring no trapped air, I'd sure appreciate a pointer or two. | ||
| Tramp |
Ara said: " I advise every tuber owner to do a visual inspection ASAP." actually, I advise every motorcycle owner to do a walk-around before each ride. Bikes should be no different than airplanes, If we're gonna operate 'em like pilots.... | ||
| Rick_a |
I've done it a few times on worn tires, and once while trail braking. That is a condition you pretty much can't recover! With a braided line the rear brake works well enough for me. | ||
| Rick_a |
A vacuum bleeder is nice to have. | ||
| Bomber |
Henrik posted a brake bleeding procedure in the KV sometime back -- it works aces! combination of pushing fluid through with the master cylinder (as per normal), and pushing fluid from teh bleed fitting on the caliper UP to the master cylinder, reverse of normal -- highly recommended | ||
| Newfie_buell |
I bleed my rear brake when I put a stainless line on. THATS SOMETHING I REALLY NEVER NEVER WANT TO DO AGAIN!!!!! The rear brake is really just there to help keep the arse straight under really hard braking. | ||
| Henrik |
Syringe bleeding here Henrik | ||
| Ara |
You guys are wonderful. Thank you! | ||
| Denfromphilly |
Some old brake mechanic told me once that you could fill a baby food jar maybe 1/2 way with brake fluid. Put a piece of vacuum hose around your bleeder and put the other end in the jar with fluid. Fill the master cylinder and open the bleeder. Pump the brake pedal until no more bubbles come out and it's bled. The hose immersed in fluid will suck and blow fluid and aspirate out the air. Close the bleeder, remove the hose and check the brakes. Tried it once on an old GTO and it worked like a charm. | ||
| Deltacruiser |
Den, I've done that on an old 57 Chevy pickup I used to have also. It does work like a charm. I haven't tried it, but I'm sure that would work on a bike just as well. |
