| Author | Message | ||
     Ryker77 |
I just bought an 2002 X1 with 65xx miles. The bike had been drag raced but was still a clean bike. After the bike warms up then at idle the bike with either die and/or CEL. The bike is rideable just have to kinda ride the clutch on take off. And is out of tune. I am getting 02 sensor, temp sensors, and both injector fault codes. What are the chances all 4 items are bad on a 2002 model bike? Or is the PCIII screwing things up? thanks for the help | ||
| Ryker77 |
Almost tempted to yank the fancy fuel injection crap off and put on a good ole carb. | ||
| Buelliedan |
dump the PCIII. Just run it with a race ecm and be done with it. | ||
| Har1ey |
Just installed full D&D system w/race module ran great for a month now i'm getting a fuel injection light error..runs very rough like i'm hitting the revlimiter all the time the light stays on most of the time but when if goes off It really runs alot worse..rear header is getting dark in color...dark gold..I did a code test.... 6 rapid flashes...2 seconds 1 flash...2 seconds 4 slow flashes..any Ideas.. | ||
| Ryker77 |
I think I will try a Race ECM. just need to find a good deal on a used race ecm. | ||
| Har1ey |
Heres a race ecm http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4556497076&ca tegory=35571&sspagename=WDVW | ||
| Har1ey |
Ryker77 How do I find out what my fault code is by the flashes that i posted above? | ||
| Oldog |
Har1ey: / Ryker: sounds like engine temp I posted the FSM code #s http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=47623&post=457311#POS T457311 ignore the codes in the earlier post http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=47623&post=449298#POST449298 I was going by memory all 4 items that are coding may be on the same circuit to ground or + 12 this MAY be causing the glitch, I have the PC3 the system does not "code frequently" how ever once in a while the thing seems to just "fart" (stumble backfire buck ) if you have the FSM take a look at the wiring diagram, See if you can reach 99X1, John is absolutely one of the best troubleshooters on this board and the electronics are what he does best (Message edited by oldog on June 19, 2005) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Trouble code fun: http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/Marriott/x1/DDFITroubleCodes/index.htm | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
AH! you beat me to it, you jerk!!! hahahhaha. | ||
| Oldog |
Ryker: remember to get a TPS reset Too Good Luck ! Nate you have any ideas?  | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I was going to get one of those power commander things some years back because the monkey from Boston H-D said I needed one for the loud pipe. I stopped in my tracks when I found that those kits use those crappy crimp-on connectors and pierce the wiring harness. I don't know if they still do but if the witing harness has been compromised by water leaking in, I can imagine that the computer will have a hard time trying to read the sensor inputs. P.S. I already had the race brain. I never needed the power commander. The dealership was brushing me off. | ||
| Ryker77 |
Thanks for the help guys..  I plan on disconnecting the PCIII and installind the orginal O2 sensor. This will tell me if the PCIII is the problem or not. Is that 20.00 socket required to change the engine temp sensor? Once I get the repair manual. I want to trace out all ground points and connections to ensure they are clean. I have a VW Golf and you'd be supprised at what dirty ground points can do. Does the codes in the ECM go away on there own once the problem is fixed? once again Thanks for the help guys.. | ||
| Ryker77 |
I've also got a A/F gauge installed. And the gauge shows that the bike is running crazy. It will bounce from moslty rich to a quick blip at lean - at idle. | ||
| Oldog |
Nate: yes they still use the crappy male female I have the stock ecm it works "OK" with the pc3 & the pc3 map for my setup This winter I hope to have time to solder and seal the joint you are definately right about what the ingress of water will do, What I wanted was to eliminate the "pinging" that I would get on take off, that it has done. What no one knew was the ET was going bad, the older ECM was replaced by CCHD in an effort to help get on top of the problem. I waited several weeks prior to installing the thing, with several things changed it's difficult to say for sure, I can zero it on a hot day and try it I hope that Ryker will continue to post his findings Ryker as I understand it the control "osolates" back and forth when on the O2 I thought the thing was "maped" at idle, I spent some time talking to PC3 prior to install they poo pooed the DDFI system and said that it was "inconsistent" if you have not "ripped it off" you can zero it and it should act as a pass through, save your map first again good luck keep is "posted" thanks for sharing Oh yeah you don't need the 20 dollar one get a 5.00 1/2" deep socket and saw a notch in it i had access to a "portaband" any hand or recip saw will work they are not real hard just cut it all the way up and through so the wire does not twist and file the burrs off. If I was going to be home I would send you mine I should be in the rack now but ......... just cant stay off of badd webb Ride safe............. (Message edited by oldog on June 21, 2005) | ||
| Buelliedan |
Why do you guys get all crazy about the "special socket" for the O2 sensor? Just put a vise grips on it and take it off. Your throwing the old one away remember. The just use an open end wrench to put the new one on. It will go on easily if you put a little anti seize on the threads. | ||
| Ryker77 |
Were not concerened with the o2 sensor socket. Its the engine temp socket that we are talking about. I'll just use a dremel tool on a 1/2 deep well socket. | ||
| Roadrunnerrv |
ryker77 said it well...make your own tools | ||
| Craigster |
Ryker, Two things, First the O2 sensor oscillates by nature. That’s part of how a narrowband O2 works. The update rate of the monitor combined with the oscillation rate of the sensor will sync up every now and then and even if it is running rich, will show a momentary ‘blip’ to the lean side. Absolutely normal. Second is more of a question: Have you changed the PCIII map in the closed loop area of the table? If you have and are not running the Dynojet sensor you can and will trigger EFI warning lights. If you have sensor, this should not happen, however there are limits as to how rich or lean you can run even with the DJ sensor. If you go too far, the ECM will still try to compensate for gross changes. If it can’t trim the fuel back to what it believes to be an acceptable level you’ll get the Warning Lamp. I’d check the trouble codes as described in the manual and fix what ever appears to be the issue. What mods do you have and what does your PCIII map look like? | ||
| Ryker77 |
I'm using the Dyno jet 4wire 02 sensor. My PC maps are 110% guessing. I kinda used a mix of PC maps force exhaust with baffle and the PC map of SE cams. I've just now got the 02 sensor on the bike and not yet tinkered with it. And I'm not even sure if the TPS was set correct. Tell me if my troubleshooting plans sound OK. 1. use the tech.. software. to troubleshoot and clear codes. 2. dump half bottle of fuel injection cleaner in the bike. 3. start the bike and at idle spray a type of cleaner called "sea foam". To help clean out the intake. 4. change sparkplugs to Autolite 4163. 5. recheck with the scan tool. 6. then run the gammet of tracing wires, cleaning connections, and checking resistance. the manual says that dirty injectors can cause not only injector code but 02 and temp codes. Thus trying to clean the injectors first. | ||
| Ryker77 |
PC MAPS --- I have tried to lower the fuel from 1000-1500 rpms at zero throttle. The bike runs rich at idle and I wanted to bring this down to middle of the fuel gauge. I started at zero and tried working down by 5's to -25. No change on the 02 gauge. | ||
| Oldog |
Ryker: as I understand it the O2 has to be at better than 500f in order to operate one reason the DDFI is mapped in that reigon is that the O2 is not generating a usable signal,(to cool) is your monitor sensor heated?, where was it installed? is the header wrapped? what Craigster said makes a lot of sense too depending on how the monitor operates (scanning) the fact that the monitor shows rich is realy puzzling to me as well, I agree with craigster that if you try to go to far either way the ECM would bark at you, but all you are doing with the PC3 is altering the pulse width to the heads. so I "guess" you would have to crank way hard on the setting to get a fault a couple more questions why the autolite plugs? have you ridden it leaned way out? have you checked or replaced the et sensor? when the ET sensor is "shifted" the bike will not run right it will run way rich and behave much like you have described.( and won't code ) when mine was failing I actualy got a clouds of black smoke out of the engine, it ran rough, stumbled etc. a digital meter wont read it (my fluke 87 would not any way) A last question if you would be so kind as to indulge me, did you ever have a chance to contact nallin, what did they say? ( if any thing ) (Message edited by ol-dog on June 22, 2005) | ||
| Ryker77 |
is your monitor sensor heated?, yes where was it installed? previous owner I've removed it and reinstalled it. is the header wrapped? yes but the problem was before and is still now. a couple more questions why the autolite plugs? its what the x1 website says is OK and the local parts store had them in stock have you ridden it leaned way out? don't know, just bought the bike and onlt put about 12 miles on it. none with the A/F gauge have you checked or replaced the et sensor? bought one yesterday and spent damn near 2 hours trying to get the techno scan software to work with no luck. Will check and/or replace the ET sensor tomorrow A last question if you would be so kind as to indulge me, did you ever have a chance to contact nallin, what did they say? not much help they just said the PC is better than the race ECU After spending 40.00 bucks on a sensor and almost 300.00 on some bull •••• software (that doesn't work) I am tempted to put a carb on the bike and be done with chasing down sensor and codes.}} | ||
| Oldog |
Ryker man that sucks! the techno stuff is a bust sorry to hear that If if if i was there I would offer to help (lap top in hand!) if it means any thing I have been where you are blow 10k on a bile that runs like @#$@#$ and not have your tools, skills, or even a garage to work in! its a pi$$er to blow 350$ on stuff and spend days @#$@#$ing with it and not solve the problem if the tone of the prior post was "huffy" I am sorry Bro just trying to give you some additionl gray matter to use hang in Ol dog. | ||
| Craigster |
I would try the following... First, Call the folks at Technoresearch for help with the software. Then try resetting and clearing the codes. Second, if that does not clear them permanently....I would disconnect the PCIII and make sure there are no issues with the wiring at the connection points. Nothing freyed, nothing broken. And then I would fire up without the PCII connected and do the code clear again. It may run like poo if it has bunch of mods and a stock ecm but if the errors they can be cleared with the software and no PCIII it will definitely point in that direction. Next step is hook PCIII back up and see if it generates bunch of faults again. This may not be totally the PCIIIs fault as far as electrical defect, but could point to out of AFV acceptable adjustment range. Having a temp fault code is suspect....I'd check all those contacts and be suspicious of places where the harness rubs the frame. | ||
| Ryker77 |
First, Call the folks at Technoresearch for help with the software. Then try resetting and clearing the codes. --------- too bad they don't have a phone number for support. All they have is online email to ask questions. Techno did respond and solve one problem. But now all I get after a long period of "connecting" is "ecu not responding" the tecno manual all 15 pages of it is almost worthless. You'd think that for 300.00 bucks it would come with better instructions. Example: when I hook up I have to go to SCM information screen and set it. Then I select ANY part of the software to scan the ECU and I get a pop up screen that has instructions/warning --- connect cable, had to connect the cable to begin with so do I now unhook and rehook the cable? select ECU will not let me then at the bottom it shows/tells me to turn the ignition off then back on tried this about 100 different ways - is the ignitions supposed to be on or off or switch it in the middle of connecting I use VAGCOM for my VW cars to make adjustments. I've used OBDII software on Hondas and other cars. Never ever had this much trouble with software. | ||
| Craigster |
Sorry to hear of all the issues with Technoresearch.... I have to admit that LT1-Edit and TunerCAT work flawlessly for reprogramming/reflashing GM ECMs. Sounds like the release was a little pre-mature since you're not the only one having issues. A sales guy offered me a great deal on a whole PRO-package for all makes and models that Techno covers......I think I'll wait a while until they solve some of the coms issues. AND produce a quality manual. Hang in there, when you get this sorted the bike will be a more fun than you can imagine. It's just crappy to deal with this kind of stuff when you don't see a light at the end of the tunne. In the mean time, I'd be checking that harness real good for any issues. Please keep us informed of your progress. | ||
| Ryker77 |
Problem #1 found. the crimp on connector for the PCII to the OEM tps wire. Previous owner had tried twice. Thus the wire was half way cut off. I cut the cover back and wrapped a new wire around the stock wire and soldered that all up. Then coated it with liquid electrical tape. The additional wire has a male end so I can un hook the PCII like before. now if I could get me damn old multimeter to work and read the resistance on the ET. | ||
| Ryker77 |
I fixed the TPS wire. Use spray elctrical cleaner on all connections and used dielectric grease. Cleaned the ground point left side near rear cyl. Was going to replace spark plugs but couldn't find my gap tool and I don't know what gap to use. So I just sprayed the spark plugs with carb cleaner and re used them. Started the bike and let it idle while I cleaned up 10-15 minutes. A/F gauge is on the first marks of rich. Throttle response is like it should be. Played with the RPMS too •••• the neighbors dumb dog off.. No check engine light. !!  Time to test ride the bike. | ||
| Oldog |
Ryker: Great news on the tps line, (Nod to Nate! & Craigster) I looked at the x1 files site and some other places on the autolite plugs , interesting. As I sit here in the hotel I am in Miami,thinking about building an ARK - and - pondering your pc problem could you tell us a few things?, What kind of PC do you have, which OS what kind of connection to the pc does the wunder box have? You solved the earlier glitch with the usb port and the pc3, wonder if you have a driver conflict or some kind of setting issue on the pc, some time its some obscure setting some where. I was looking to get that set up for maintaining the beastie, and would apreciate it if you would not mind to continue to keep us posted on your progress, ps any software that communicates over any media can be a real PITA to get lined out, I do a lot of work with factory instrumentation trouble shooting hart and similar stuff can be exasperating, I recently spent 700.00$ for software and a connection device to work on pressure transmitters 4 months ago, it still does not work when this project is finished I will have a meeting with the vendor, (kit in hand) for sure some times it's just a pain hang in and great to hear that you may have your bike rideable. Ride safe |
