| Author |
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Firemanjim
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 11:36 am: | 
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Still seems easier to sacrifice an old set of bars to weld a set the way you want and put 7/8 ends on them.
Al Lighton (American Sportbike) used to seel an adjustable set for the S-2's.Don't know what it was like---
Don't have an S-2 here to look at(damn) but does the bar set-up from an S-3 or S-1 interfere with the dash or something to make it not an option as the available 7/8 bar options are numerous to say the least.
I just sold a Helibar set-up for a Triumph Sprint and it had a 3 piece multiple adjustable bar set-up that bolted into a standard clamp.Adjustable for height and angle.Look here for example.
http://www.helibars.com/pics/triumph/sprint-a.html |
Jim_sb
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 12:50 pm: |
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FMJ, you know I did that. Took an extra set of S2 bars to a local welder, got him going... Then I got transferred. To Las Vegas. Completely forgot about them. That was a few years ago. Now that I'm back in SB I should go see if he still has them.
Do you have any pics of your S2 rearsets? I know a guy who can probably make them if I can provide a model or design.
Jim |
Henrik
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 01:43 pm: |
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Welding a 7/8" piece on the end of the 1" bars, might work, except for this: If the length of the 7/8" handle section is measured out to work for a 7/8" throttle tube, will the throttle cable end work within the switch housing? Will the diameter of the tube where the cables connect be similar enough to the stock version that it will not affect throttle action - 1/4 turn vs. 1/5 turn etc.
Henrik |
Aaomy
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 04:45 pm: |
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i tried to explain that to him above henrik, but he says it wont be a problem,, my measurement off a destroyed 7/8 sleeve said it would. but like i said its pretty tore up and i havent torn into a current 7/8 grip to get better measurements,, spent last night magnetic fishing for half a bolt in the primary,, caught it around midnight. i thought about making a billet conversion sleeve with the 1" guide and a 7/8" sleeve, a lot of work so that idea is benched for now. |
Jim_sb
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 06:03 pm: |
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Hi guys,
When we discuss sleeving, we're talking different concepts.
I'm talking about getting a complete 7/8" bar. No 1" section at all.
How would I mount stock 1" controls on a 7/8" bar? Simple. Cut a short piece of pvc pipe, the exact length required by the switchgear, split it in 2 and sleeve it over the 7/8" bar. Tighten on the controls and you're done. The Cafe Sportster guys do this. I know it works, and you can use 7/8" grips and throttle tube with this setup.
You guys seem to be thinking that you can insert a 7/8" bar into the cut-down end of a 1" bar. I don't think there's room. But if it could be done, you'd have to weld it in place somehow in such a way that the welds did not interfere with the throttle tube and cables. I think that's a tougher way to go.
FMJ has the easiest idea - get a top clamp from an S1, mount it up and go bar shopping. I may look into that. There may be additional benefits to that approach. A little bit more width on the bars should apply more leverage to your steering inputs, might make the bike feel a little lighter and more flickable. Just a thought.
Anyone know the Buell part # for the appropriate S1 top triple clamp? I might just have to order one if it's not an arm and a leg.
Jim in SB |
Devdawg
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 06:19 pm: |
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Here's a set of S2 bars that are about 9" tall from the bottom of the clamp to the top of the bar.
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Rex
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 06:40 pm: |
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and they are for sale? rex buellv@aol.com |
Devdawg
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 07:39 pm: |
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Rex,
Sure, sale or trade...I was planning on using them but have since changed my mind.
Would hate to see them go to waste. Was planning on listing them on ebay sooner or later.
(Message edited by devdawg on May 05, 2005) |
Henrik
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 08:20 pm: |
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Aaron; OK so we start with 7/8" bars;
1) even if we sleeve the switch gear, we're still stuck with a rather large hole for the throttle tube - that ought to leave some slack. And I'd like to know if the
2) isn't the brake light switch built into the switch gear and activated when the brake lever pulls away from the housing? I guess we'd have to rewire that to the late model switch.
I guess that ought to be possible.
Are those bars the older cut+weld or the newer dimple+weld?
Henrik |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 09:02 pm: |
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Jim,I'll post some pics when I get home from the "office"--- |
Jim_sb
| | Posted on Friday, May 06, 2005 - 04:54 pm: |
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Devdawg, are those bars 1" or 7/8"?
Jim in SB |
Jim_sb
| | Posted on Friday, May 06, 2005 - 05:12 pm: |
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FMJ, Looking forward to the pics.
S2 Owners, FYI, I am working earnestly on the following ideas:
1. Al at American Sportbike is going to see if we can adapt the new Firebolt 38 amp Stator / Regulator for use on our older Buells (or Sportsters). 22 amps simply isn't much, especially if someone runs Gerbing heated gear as I do. Absent that Banke may be able to machine a 32 amp BT stator to fit.
2. Rearsets. First we'll see what FMJ's look like and proceed from there. Al at American Sportbike has some aftermarket sideplates that he believes can be drilled allowing the pegs to be moved rearward as much as 1.25". Banke believes he can come up with a new sideplate with any desired location. We shall see.
3. Side Stand. Al's aftermarket side plates allow fitment of a "normal" side stand. Banke believes he can come up with something but would need an S2 to develop the part or bracketry necessary. As a temporary solution I may try the Aaron Wilson "heat & hammer" persuasion technique. That could get expensive, a hammer is not a finesse tool for me.
4. Mirrors with integrated turn signals. I'm going to start looking for something and see what I can make work.
5. Faired-in rear turn signals. I am forced to try Mark's good looking solution. I really think it looks good.
6. 7/8" bars. Best idea so far is the Guzzi stuff at http://www.mgcycle.com/bars.html or to do as FMJ suggested and go with an S1 triple clamp. Banke thought with the clip-ons removed there is enough room to add a handle-bar adapter. I will explore this further as well.
I'll post any successful outcomes I have.
Regards,
Jim in SB |
Devdawg
| | Posted on Friday, May 06, 2005 - 09:32 pm: |
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Jim_sb,
I'll look when I get home. They were made to stock specs...just taller. I'll measure them when I get home to make sure. |
Henrik
| | Posted on Friday, May 06, 2005 - 09:39 pm: |
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#3) you could always take the kick-stand off the bike *before* you go at it with heat and hammer 
and please report your un-successful outcomes as well. Good to know.
Henrik |
Rex
| | Posted on Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 12:21 am: |
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I don't have a torch or a big hammer, so I am going to be interested in the results...gotta change out that sidestand....to a normal one some way.....keep us posted. REX |
Jim_sb
| | Posted on Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 01:28 am: |
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Devdawg, if you're running stock grips and switchgear, it's a 1" bar.
Henrik, I just bought a 4# vise just for this science project. Already had the torch and a medium size "persuader".
More good news. Erik's going to be at Willow Springs next weekend. I'm going to go up there and see if I can say hello and maybe see Matty race.  |
Simond
| | Posted on Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 05:35 am: |
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I've tried swapping and rotating the S2T footpeg hangers so that the 1" offset moves the pegs rearwards rather than down. I found this less comfortable than the standard position. I would estimate that the pegs will need to go back at least 3-4" to get anything like a normal riding position. I imagine that this will start to interfere with the passenger pegs which might be an issue for some.
A plate that allows repositioning of the pegs and the use of a X1 sidestand would be very interesting!! |
Buell_by_buhle
| | Posted on Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 09:17 am: |
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Hey Jim in SB,
1. Higher power alternator. Done that--H-D FL 32 amp stator fits (and works) just fine (with a suitable heavy duty aftermarket regulator). Needs a shim to get correct Primary chain sprocket spacing. Problem is keeping the FL wires requires splicing in the orig. S2 molded-on rubber grommet at the engine cases. Issue is the grommet cannot be reused without causing oil leaks :-( never solved that one, will definitely be interested in Al's XB alternative research, since the XB plug and wiring would not have the leaks problem)
2. Rearsets. Used the 1" lowered pegs from the S2T instead.
3. Sidestand. To fix the rollover problem, modified the orig. S2 plate with bolt tapped through at the location where the aluminum plate wears from the steel stand. Newest S2T plates come with the bolt included from the factory. Have no experience with rearsets.
4 + 5. Integrated turnsignals sound interesting. I used the X1 (and now XB line) turnsignals instead. Only $3.95 a piece, smaller, look good, and won't break like the original $35 S2 versions!
6. I bought the 1" American Sport Bike adjustable handlebars back in 1998 or so, and love them. Shoulda done that back in 1995! Considered upgrading the switchgear to '96 Sportster ergo gear, but had problems matching correct size brake master cylinder. Have all the '96 switchgear if anyone wants the parts...
Good luck with the upgrades :-) |
Aaomy
| | Posted on Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 10:34 am: |
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seeing as this page has turned into a list of s2 projects i guess ill start here! im gonna start a thread of completed s2 projects, most for witch i have progress pictures for, this will take a while to sort out everything, couple of questions, should i list each project separately under a different thread name, or just keep one supper long running thread? and as i name these off, please let me know if their is one you want to see more that another.
1. billet xb to tuber front motor mount,
2. xb9 head prep, start of custom breather set up
3. billet foot pegs, to go with billet controls, and new longer billet shift control leaver
4. al swing arm conversion, and polishing
5. front sprocket lightening
6. rear sprocket cutting.
7. new al air cleaner assembly, with velocity and low pressure controlling cone.
8. new billet catch can and rest of custom breather set up.
these are only some of the projects, but some of the others i dont have good pictures for.
also i would like to know more about the " addition of a bolt" kick stand cure, and how well it works, thanks guys, |
Aaomy
| | Posted on Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 10:45 am: |
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a thought on the rear sets, if you guys dont mind drilling and taping into your side plates you should be able to move your foot pegs any where you want. any ideas on where you want the peg to occur from the stock location? and never mind the drilling and taping idea,, just had a better one, please throw out an idea on location and ill draw up a couple sketches and throw them buy you guys,, problem solving is so much fun...... |
Devdawg
| | Posted on Monday, May 09, 2005 - 03:05 pm: |
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Jim_sb,
You're right...those bars are 1". |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Monday, May 09, 2005 - 07:49 pm: |
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Aaomy,no need to tap at all.Just machine a slot just like your stock pegs are mounted to.Check out the pic on the rearsets thread.I did just that on my B'ville bike.Posted pic of my rearset brackets,also. |
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