| Author | Message | ||
     2008xb12scg |
I just got a 2019 kia forte s to commute in, about 2k miles a month. I'm looking at the maintenance schedule and it calls for an oil change only every 7500 miles. That seems like a lot to me. Most of you guys know more than me, so I was hopping to get some opinions. Should I just do the oil every 7500 miles like it calls for it do it more frequently? I'm going to need to keep this car for a long time. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated | ||
| Hootowl |
Interval for my vw is 10,000 miles. Modern oil is amazing. | ||
| Hootowl |
2000 miles per month sounds like a lot of freeway time. Freeway miles are easy on the oil. It’s the short trips and stop and go that are bad. You should be good with the manufacturer’s recommendation. | ||
| 2008xb12scg |
Yep, 94 miles round trip almost all on the freeway with very little traffic. I thought it was odd they threw in the paid maintenance so easily, now I know why lol. I appreciate the advice and I'll just stick to the schedule. Thanks for the response and advice T | ||
| Pwnzor |
Yeah 7500 is fine. Give it the good stuff, even though you don't need to. | ||
| Ratbuell |
My Grand Cherokee diesel is a 10k interval. Extended warranty, and they tossed in a prepaid maintenance contract as well. It goes in every 10k for oil and every 5k for a tire rotation (full-time AWD) - its enough for the warranty, it's enough for me. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I've almost always stuck to the factory recommended schedules for oil changes, and I have always put well over 100k on the cars I own. No oil-related issues on any of them. | ||
| Aesquire |
The Amzoil Volvo cultists go 10,000 miles, change the filter, top off, and go another 10,000. It's like a contest to use the least amount of the most expensive oil. Volvo owners are crazy. Even they agree. ( also smarter and more Woke, but I digress ) Iirc, research shows even oil blessed by the Pope and delivered by Venusian airships starts to lose it's additive properties much past 8000 miles. Let me be clear, I'll believe Amzoil is still better at 10k than Kmart generic is fresh. 100% better. And I'm not picking on Amzoil, just the cult folk who worship it. In fact, their Z-rod oil is perfect for cars etc. That get run once a month, or three months, and parked almost all the time. It has "stick to the cam, etc." additives so you don't have as bad a dry start wear problem. Great stuff for it's intended use. Old school dino oil just isn't enough in modern engines. The reason my '13 Caravan still runs like a top with 178k is a steady diet of synthetic. And for the time I've owned it, Amzoil. It's what my mechanic sells. ( he has the tools to fix computer cars ) In my Buell, running synthetic means there is zero varnished burnt oil in my heads. I've changed rocker box gaskets, and looked. And for historical perspective, in the 1970s, 3k was the recommended oil change interval. 5k is the '90s number. 7500 is, with synthetic, fine. And you could get more, but changing gets more dirt out, than just filter changes, and although expensive by 1960s standards, so is Coca Cola. It's cheap insurance and well worth it. As to brand? I run Syn3 because they promise it's compatible with my clutch, the glue that holds the magnets, and is available locally at my dealer. I also run a Dyna filter for that extra gallon, or milliliter, I forget which. Brand loyalty means any oil discussion becomes a flame war most places. Here, we are marginally more polite. Except Mobile One heretics! Die!  ( Mobile One, I am told, dissolves the glue on my magnets. A Bad Thing. ) I leave detailed brand & type recommendation to the rest of my Lady & Gentleman posters. | ||
| Crusty |
I tend to prefer Filippo Berrio Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Not only does it do a good job, but the smell makes me feel like I'm heading to Casserta's Pizzaria in Providence, RI. (Message edited by Crusty on February 27, 2019) | ||
| Aesquire |
You do change it frequently, right? Extra garlic? | ||
| Court |
Interesting post . . . 5 years old . . . from the Porsche board . .
You will find a wide range of opinions based on everything from the interesting studies on the Blackstone and Amsoil site to old mechanics lore. I have 6 cars and do oil analysis at almost all oil changes. Everything, except vintage British, gets Amsoil Signature. Got perfectly clean reports up until 134,000 miles on the last one I sold. Oil is the cheapest thing I do to a car . . . I take comfort . . . for no concrete reason . . . is buying the best oil and filters I can and changing fairly frequently . . . on the order of 7,000 miles . . . but, if I go too 10,000 on the Amsoil . . . I don't sweat it. | ||
| Ourdee |
My Renegade runs a 0w-20. It keeps track of my driving and tells me when it thinks I have worn out the oil. The XB runs Formula+ because it works. The fire side of the house gets AmsOil 20w-50 synth. My perception allows me to feel good about it. | ||
| Hootowl |
While vw calls for 10k, and sometimes I do go that long between changes, I try to do it at 5k. I live very close to work. During winter the engine isn’t even up to operating temperature when I arrive. No freeway use during the commute, and only two lights. Do I need to change it that frequently? No idea. But since 10k miles takes me two years to accumulate, I feel better changing it more often. | ||
| Aesquire |
For a different view, light airplanes, the Cessnas and Pipers and Mooneys people fly once a month for fun, if that, have really old school tractor engines. Big bore, air cooled, loose clearances, lots of blowby compared to a modern car, and what seems like really low power per cubic inch. But that's misleading. While a 360 cubic inch engine may be rated at 180 hp on 100 octane leaded super premium airplane gas, or 150 hp on car gas, two different engines with different compression ratios, btw, not one rated 2 ways, ( but otherwise the same model & parts except pistons ) that rating isn't for a few seconds on a dyno. That's 180 ponies for long minutes on takeoff and climb, and often in rentals, hours from takeoff to descent to land. Even backed off throttle for economy cruise, that's at 75% power. It's a slow spinning, 2800-3000 rpm Redline! engine because of the "gearing", direct drive, crank bolted to the propeller, no transmission. Like running my Caravan at 5000 rpm, all day. Think NASCAR driving, not street rod. What's the biggest problem? Blowing up? Nope. It's cam wear. From sitting. The most popular Lycoming engines, boxer 4 & 6 cylinder ones, have the cam above the crank & pushrods. After a month parked, the oil has drained off the cam, and with old school solid lifters, wears the hardened finish off the cam when starting, years of wear in seconds, time after time. People just don't fly as much as they used to. $6+ a gallon gas is one reason. Very frequent oil changes and oil film drain issues mean synthetics are controversial and only recently accepted. Lycoming embraced roller lifters fairly recently, and used them in New engines, and many folk upgrade when having the engines rebuilt, but it's expensive. The New, New solution is DLC solid cam lifters. Diamond Like Coating. But that's just in the very latest engines, and far more likely to be found in a home built than the factory fleet, ( which are selling far fewer airplanes than decades ago ) Also ironically, because that old Cessna has strict rules about changing stuff, like the instrument panel, you find that little 2 seat home built planes often now have glass cockpits to rival a 767, because they are in some cases cheaper than the FAA approved steam gauges ( round dials & plumbing ) . My favorite example is a buddy has a tow plane designed to tow hang gliders up to altitude. Open cockpit..... I mean NOTHING around the pilot. An instrument pod the size of two fists, with micro glass cockpit display of engine readings and multi channel radio, and strapped to his leg, a GPS system that displays the air traffic corridors and zones. It looks like the kind of plane that would be setting world records. In 1910. Like "first flight from London to Paris!" More sophisticated instruments than a Korean War jet fighter. http://liteflite.com.au And.... The Oil threads on aircraft forums have flame wars, too.  | ||
| Sifo |
I wouldn't blink at 7500 miles of highway driving between changes today. Oil and engines have changed over the years. If you really want a comfort level, send oil into Blackstone for analysis (after break in of course). They can give you a good idea of how much wear you are getting from various parts, by the various metals contaminating the oil. I sat in a seminar put on by Ducati a few years ago. They talked a lot about using Diamond Like Coatings in their engines. It took a while to really sink in, but as long as you don't have debris that will tear the coating off the part, and they have an oil film, they last damned near forever. It's hard to imagine a coating just a few molecules thick lasting for the life of an engine, but they actually do, unless they get damaged. Of course, at that point any part will be toast. Really cool stuff. So what's the best oil?  | ||
| Crusty |
So what's the best oil? Canola oil. It's better for your heart. | ||
| Ourdee |
Is there Omega3 in Canola oil? | ||
| Crusty |
| ||
| Etennuly |
The other thing about extending oil changes is how much cleaner it stays due to closer tolerances, more efficient fuel injection, powerful ignition, and ECM engine management. | ||
| Zane |
My daily rider is an old 2005 Toyota Rav4. I don't even know what the oil change interval is. It has an engine maintenance light for the oil. When it comes on, I change the oil. So far I have 198,000 miles on the engine without any major repairs. | ||
| Aesquire |
My '13 VW would ORDER me to change the oil, but I changed it more often out of stubbornness. Jeremy Clarkson on the old Top Gear had an AMG Mercedes, and when it demanded he service it, he claims he parked it at home, & refused, so it informed on him, and they came and took it to be serviced. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I don't even start considering a replacement until my cars have 200,000+ on the clock. Current longest run has 262,000 and counting. Zero major issues. Oil changes every 5,000 miles as a general rule. | ||
| Zane |
Yeah, I don't plan to replace the Rav until it gets to 225,000 or so. A dealership wouldn't give me squat for it so just keep it so my son can bomb around in it. Next vehicle will most likely be a light duty pickup truck. I had great service from my last Tacoma but might thing about a Canyon or maybe a Ridgeline. Just have to see what looks best to me at the time and what the total cost of ownership looks like. | ||
| Tootal |
The reason Porsche doesn't mind running the oil longer is because they use so much you're always topping up and putting the additives back in!! On my old Honda Element I used Amsoil's Extended drain oil. They say it's good for 10,000 mile changes and it's a little cheaper than the signature. I broke the car in on Castrol GTX to 10,000 miles and switched to the Amsoil. I did 10,000 mile changes after that and at 162,000 it still used only a half a quart in that 10,000 miles. I just put a PurePower reusable filter on my Harley and got one for the Buell too. I like the idea of taking the filter apart and seeing what's inside and then cleaning the screens and reusing it. And because everybody was giving me crap about my red automotive filter I was using!  | ||
| Court |
>>>>The reason Porsche doesn't mind running the oil longer is because they use so much you're always topping up and putting the additives back in!! Possibly . . . . what model have you had experience with? The oil consumption, in a Boxer style engine (I currently have a new Subaru with the 3.6L) is not an unheard of development. It's also no big problem. I am curious if your opinion also applies to the Chevrolet Corvette that utilizes a conventional V-8 arrangement You wouldn't be the first to raise CONCERNS about the oil change procedures. My better half has been through 7 Porsche 911's . . . including a 986 . . . and maintenance costs are a concern. Thanks goodness the PCCB rotors . . . absent any damage . . . can last the life of the car. But . . . I've owned cars that cost less than a brake job. Although, in fairness to Porsche, it's not longer a $22,000 option.  | ||
| Crusty |
Nope. It's now $23,100.00 plus the price of pads, plus labor and incidentals. I bet my house cost less. (Message edited by Crusty on February 28, 2019) | ||
| Tootal |
Possibly . . . . what model have you had experience with? My racing partner's 996. It had the horribly designed cam bearing that exploded which required a total rebuild. So his new engine uses oil like crazy, a quart every 800 miles. When he gets on it, it smokes. It runs great, I've driven it on some nice twisty roads and it's a hoot, it just uses a lot of oil. | ||
| Court |
Interesting . . . .the 996 brought the change from air cooled to water cooled and the 2nd set of valves. . . . . and 996 oil consumption has been reported by a number of folks. So we agree, it would be a good time to replace the 2017 Boxer Subaru with a twin turbo V-6? :-) | ||
| Tootal |
Ha! Well, after about 100,000 miles maybe! Subaru has a head gasket problem in higher mileage cars. Great cars otherwise! | ||
| Froggy |
You can always swap a Chevy LS motor into the Cessna to solve those problems. LS all the things.  More details here: https://www.reddit.com/r/aviation/comments/avvvv1/lsswapped_cessna_you_really_can_put_a_chevy_small/ehjr97j/ Sounds like a cost effective upgrade:
(Message edited by Froggy on March 01, 2019) |
