Fox News .com,"The wobble is a harmonic resonance resulting from a loose or worn part in the steering or suspension, such as a tie rod end, and usually set off by hitting a bump at a certain speed. It often goes away after the vehicle stops, but can return under similar circumstances. However, if not addressed, over time the vibration can cause damage to other components of the vehicle and exacerbate the issue. Many websites targeted at off-roaders have sections dedicated to fixing the issue on a variety of vehicles, which is often the result of installing aftermarket parts."
My suggestion would be to put the Jeep on jack stands with the front tires off the ground. Grab the tires and try to move them in any direction they should not move. If it moves, look for the loose part that allows it. I know I'm probably preaching to the choir.
I would also suggest re-torquing all the bolts in the suspension. Especially those that were loosened during the new spring install, but you might as well eliminate all the possibilities. (I know, you've probably already done this.) If this happened right after the new springs, it's almost certainly related. Geometry change? Did the caster get adjusted back to spec?
After checking that stuff, it's probably time to start emptying pockets. Trying to control those big tires with stock size linkages makes things very sensitive to wear. Drag link would be suspect. Track bar. Tie rod. Almost imperceptible wear from multiple joints will stack up to give you DW when over loaded with those big tires.
Time to upgrade to 1 ton axles, 8 lug wheels, etc.!
With the tires on the ground, is there play in the track bar at either end? Is the hardware tight? Have the wife turn the wheel while you hold the tie rods, track bar ends, etc. You'll get a better feel for minor play that may not be visible yet or something you can feel with a normal 'shake down'.
Think the steering gear is getting sloppy again?
Is this with the new RCV axles? I would make sure that all of the bolts are torqued properly, preferably with loctite. It's possible something was left loose.
Sifo has a good point about the caster. If it was lifted, but the caster wasn't checked, it might be a hair too negative. Negative caster can make it sketchy when driving. Think of rake/trail on a bike, longer like a chopper is stable on the highway, but hard to steer at low speeds. Less trail makes for potentially less high speed stability, but more maneuverability.
(Message edited by Thumper74 on December 22, 2018)
Good news is that the adjustable control arms can help. You might want to extend the lowers a hair, maybe a 1/4 inch and test drive. Extending the lowers and making the uppers shorter could effectively adjust the caster back towards positive.
You want the imaginary verticle line to tilt towards the back of the vehicle.
Good news is that the adjustable control arms can help. You might want to extend the lowers a hair, maybe a 1/4 inch and test drive.
I think a 1/4 inch might be way over kill. I just did a 2 1/2 inch lift on my JK. It's really more of a 3 1/2 inch front 1 1/2 inch rear lift, so most of it was in the front. They recommend going 1/4 longer on the LCAs for that lift, and it would be in speck with less. I know this isn't a JK we are talking about here, but the basics of geometry still apply. It should be pretty similar.
Worst case, I doubt the caster is the root cause, but it might be just enough to push it over the edge into DW. In the end, it's a matter of lack of control due to slop, flexing parts, or poor geometry. The first two cost more to fix!
They just adjusted the control arms so the spring pockets line up.
I went from 2.5" to 3" to 4" and never adjusted the control arms. It helped but not 100% SOOO the next thing we are going to try is put a set of balanced tires and wheels on it. I have 10 oz of balancing beads in each tire. I am running a set of 37" Creepy Crawler Bias Ply tires. I know they can be a bit bumpy when you first take off if the jeep as been sitting for a few days or longer. Maybe should have put more beads in... we shall see
I cannot for the life of me figure out how balance beads work. It seems like the heavy side would be furthest point from the center and centripetal force would fling all the weights to that point making the imbalance worse. But I know a lot of guys run them and swear by them. I've always had good results with conventional spin balancing, including the 37's i had on my '01 Ram. I had to take them to a tractor trailer shop IIRC.
I run beads on all my vehicles including the bikes and love them. They do have drawbacks, the cheap ones turn to dust, can't use 'slime'. but the benefits are they balance at every RPM, not just the one set speed that an electronic balancer does.
Check the toe in/out. Big tires magnify the results of an alignment. 1/16" toe in on a 28" tire can have a much larger affect on a 35" tire. Your toe setting will move dramatically moving the adjustable control arms a small amount. Toe must be reset with any input to the control arms or height adjustments. Also jounce the vehicle before setting toe. Bounce it as you roll it back and forth a foot or so.
Hey Vern, how would adjustments to control arms or height affect the toe? I can see that on an independent suspension, but with a solid axle? Toe should only change if you change the tie rod adjustment, right? I guess I could see it if you had a radical change in the caster, but a degree or so of caster change shouldn't do much to the toe. Am I missing something?
Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2018 - 11:44 am:
Replace ball joints.....set toe. Change trail arm settings check toe. Toe in or out can cause death wobble as the left and right tires fight each other for traction. 12 inch wide big tires magnify problem. And setting the toe is free!
On IFS you cannot make any adjustments to the control arms without affecting toe settings.
It needs more positive caster to fix the wobble. You are fighting acceptable u-joint angle with poor caster. Fix the castor and go to a double constant velocity drive shaft to deal with the angle, or rework the yokes on the axle to get caster and acceptable u-joint angle. Been there, have the t-shirt. Also, look into a high pinion axle to lessen the DS angle.
I cut and rewelded the axle yokes to get mine to work. Way too much trouble.
he has the key! Trailer it, stop using it as a daily commuter when you get that serious into off road use. Just like I told you it would happen several years ago.....on day one!lol