| Author | Message | ||
     Greg_e |
Just got done building a cheap programmable sequential shift light for my race bike. It's built in the designer's shape but since it is open source and open hardware, I may design new circuit boards and change it in the future. http://www.minigp-racing.com/joomla1/index.php/tec hnical-info/technical-articles/62-shift-light-and- tachometer-part1 | ||
| Pwnzor |
Dude... that thing is cooler than penguin feet. | ||
| Greg_e |
Yes, and I'm not sure why it isn't more popular with the ricer crowd. Only thing I can think of is that they are spending the money on racing level electronic information systems like you see on some Karts and things like F1 and Indy cars. | ||
| Skntpig |
Wait...What!! I agree. Wicked cool. Let’s see this mounted on your race bike. I can think of many vehicles that needs this. Can you order a kit assembled that just plugs into the strip you choose and then into the bike or car? | ||
| Skntpig |
Just found the link. Looks great! Thanks for sharing. | ||
| Malott442 |
I want to put one on my ebr | ||
| Greg_e |
I think the flexible rubber coated version of the LEDs would be good for things that have a decent cluster. Just stick them on and run the wires to wherever you can hide the control box. Anything with a modern ECU should have a nice clean tach. signal, should be easy to integrate. Wish this had been done before it got cold, probably going to be until March before I can get this on the KAYO and get it working. One note for those that might build one... You won't need the encoder connected after you get it set up. There really isn't much that you'd need to change once you are somewhat happy with the colors, rpms, and pattern. I really should have left my encoder off the board and only pushed it in place when I needed to change something. It's not like your rpm limits really change much, redline is still redline and you'll probably want to shift before you hit the limiter because you'll be down on power by that point. Maybe solder in some headers and put the encoder on a cable that plugs in for those few times you want to change something. | ||
| Shoggin |
Please please please make a few to sell to us lowly plebs that don't understand the mysterious and dangerous electrons! | ||
| Greg_e |
I would need to make the test waveform generator first. Not opposed to soldering a few kits. The developer does have them on eBay, though kind of a lot compared to the parts. Still cheaper than other products that do a similar task though. Everything is through hole, and the directions are really good, it's really pretty easy to solder. Lots of good info at places like adafruit and sparkfun, I'm sure both will have a good basic soldering kit. | ||
| Greg_e |
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13086 https://www.adafruit.com/product/136 https://www.jameco.com/z/JVP250-Deluxe-Electronics -Soldering-Kit_2245562.html The last one needs decent solder, suggest Kester brand with activated flux core. | ||
| Greg_e |
To sort of keep this alive, I bought a waveform generator kit from Sparkfun. It allows you to program a custom waveform, hoping this will let me build the circuits I need to work on the KAYO so that when it gets warm, I can just plug it in and go. Hoping the kit will arrive soon so I can get testing. In regards to kits, I saw an oscope kit on banggood for around $30, this would be plenty good enough for common automotive stuff like check the cps on our older Buells to see if it is failing. I might buy one of these to play with, I don't get to do a lot of this type of thing at work anymore. (Message edited by greg_e on December 09, 2017) | ||
| Greg_e |
I'll give you the video preview now that I have the signal generator running. It will eventually be a post on my site, but probably not until I figure out how to make the thing trigger from a negative voltage pulse. https://youtu.be/_kq6bnJA64c |
