| Author | Message | ||
     Natexlh1000 |
http://www.adafruit.com/products/575 Big blob of epoxy perhaps? | ||
| 86129squids |
Heat activated shrink-wrap after installation? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Liquid electrical tape is a safe (if not pretty) bet. Weatherproofing turns out to be one of the hardest problems for the homebrew builder to work out for a motorcycle (where conditions are brutal, visibility is high, and space is really limited). I've also played with silicone II thinned with mineral spirits and with corn startch added. It shows potential, but I worry about long term life and corrosion issues. So liquid electrical tape (on shelf at hardware store) is probably a better bet. Duplicolor spray may be the same stuff. I have code and hardware designs to make a much nicer voltmeter for not much more money. It measures and reports high and low transients. Not a complicated build either. | ||
| Hootowl |
Why not potting compound? | ||
| Nillaice |
http://www.amazon.com/Signal-Dynamics-Heads-Voltag e-Monitor/dp/B00AC5J84M this one fits in behind the flyscreen and pokes in thru the IC under the low fuel warning light. | ||
| Greg_e |
Hot glue! If you cut it with a razor after it cools, you can get a nice edge. | ||
| Gregtonn |
Type conformal coating into your search engine. You can get several types form spray to brush on. G | ||
| Ducbsa |
Not a panel meter, but usable: http://www.batterytender.com/Accessories/Digital-V oltage-Indicator-with-LCD-Display.html it says out of stock. but maybe retailers have some. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hot glue is handy for a lot of things. I tried it for this kind of project, and it worked better than most options, but I still had issues... 1) It is hot. Duh. Worked fine for a 7805 voltage regulator the first time I tried it, but when I used it on a PIC microcontroller project (maybe a hotter gun) it killed the chip. 2) After a year or two, it did start to harden, shrink and pull up in a few places. That being said, there are a LOT of different guns and different sticks, so some may work great and some may be a disaster. Hoot, I have been unable to find affordable potting compound in small quantities with decent shelf life... at least nothing better than a $6 3oz bottle of liquid electrical tape. But I'm all ears if somebody has a suggestion. I also used "Apoxie". It worked pretty well and is affordable. I bought it on amazon, you can probably get it at craft stores also. Most of the epoxy putties would probably work well, but they get pricey by the oz. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I suppose I could jam it in an enclosure but then it would kinda nullify the cute/tiny factor. http://www.newark.com/hammond/1591atcl/enclosure-m ultipurpose-pc-clear/dp/50H6341 | ||
| Hootowl |
How about molding silicone? The two part stuff. Good shelf life (doesn't set until you mix it) and available on amazon or in hobby stores. Also easily pourable, so it get in all the nooks and crannies. | ||
| Teeps |
Installed a signal dynamics L.E.D. volt meter on my '06 Ulysses in 2008. But I was never happy with the install. So, in 2013 I replaced it with this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gammatronix-5mm-LED-12v- Battery-level-Alternator-Charge-monitor-indicator- K-/200634417104?ssPageName= Everything fits in the meter assembly for a cleaner install. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Interesting Hoot. Any idea if it's acidic or conductive? Some neat options out there, not cheap, but not insane either: Plastic putty that becomes moldable at 150 deg F (which even consumer electronics should survive if you don't power them up until things have cooled): http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic- 12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1445356 859&sr=8-7&keywords=molding+silicone .7 pounds of quick setting silly putty consistency two part material for $15: http://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Amazing-Mold-Putty -0-66-Pound/dp/B0058VAG5A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1 445356859&sr=8-4&keywords=molding+silicone Putty actually declared as silicone, $27 for a pound: http://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-1-P ound-Easymold-Silicone/dp/B003CHU3ZK/ref=sr_1_6?ie =UTF8&qid=1445356859&sr=8-6&keywords=molding+silic one Two part true pourable silicone, 1 pound for $25: http://www.amazon.com/Smooth-On-Silicone-Making-Ru bber-OOMOO/dp/B004BNF3TK/ref=pd_sim_201_2?ie=UTF8& refRID=06T4EVRCPHJMZD8CP3JT&dpID=517Fu0mqE-L&dpSrc =sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR132%2C160_ The pourable silicone looks interesting because it would fill little gaps, so I could in theory put it around an LCD and weatherproof it (with some care about how I would then get the LCD visible again). Some of the two part polyurathane compounds look interesting too. Too many options, not enough time and money. Solving the weatherproof enclosure problems for small electronic devices is a lot harder than I thought. And I'm not sure many are much better then the 50 cent roll of electrical tape I can get at harbor freight. I have some liquid electrical tape on the bench already. I'll try that. I have Apoxie also, but it's proabably a year old at this point, it may have exceeded its shelf life. | ||
| Greg_e |
There is low temp and high temp hot glue sticks, and probably 3 times that in hot glue style potting compounds. The low temp should be around 200 degrees at "liquid". | ||
| Reepicheep |
Aaack! Do ***not*** do a search for polyamide on ebay. My eyes! Dang. No wonder the hot glue fried my PIC controller. The low temp stuff is still way high, above typical consumer spec tolerances. The normal stuff is 250+ degrees. This looks like lovely stuff. Pricey, but not insane at $40 for 16 ounces. http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Thermally-Condu ctive-Encapsulating/dp/B005T8RZFG/ref=pd_sim_328_5 ?ie=UTF8&refRID=09GT8D4CF523RZN0XPY0&dpID=41aMmewx H0L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR118%2C160_ This looks cool too, but is just a conformal coating (like my liquid electrical tape) http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Urethane-Viscous-Coating -Temperature/dp/B000IC7ZQ2/ref=pd_sim_328_8?ie=UTF 8&refRID=0E8DH8ZA0P0JX1GHCVDQ (Message edited by reepicheep on October 20, 2015) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Where is Bruce Belfer when we need him? Bruce, quit screwing around with that motorcycle company and tell us a cheap homebrew electronics potting solution!  | ||
| Hootowl |
That first one says "excellent electrical conductivity'. I do not think that's what you want. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
By the time you pay for the unit, shipping, waterproofing and for your time applying waterproofing and installing (where??), you may as well just buy that $35 dollar one. It's waterproof, road tested by half the members here, has it's own mounting system that works just fine and auto- dims the display for night time. The reason I didn't name the unit I refer to is that I can't spell Kuryaken. There's likely other sources as well. (Message edited by panhead_dan on October 20, 2015) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
What's that clear sticky garbage they put on telcom stuff? It doesn't dry out or harden or corrode anything. Like cosmoline for telephones. | ||
| Hootowl |
"Aaack! Do ***not*** do a search for polyamide on ebay. My eyes! " Don't tell me what to do. Ack! My eyes! Note to self: Follow Bill's advise. | ||
| Greg_e |
Thankfully, the eBay app on my tablet suggests additional keywords, I was spared. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I tried to tell you! (But I knew you would do it anyway, I would have. ) | ||
| Akbuell |
I'm with Panhead on this one. I have 2, and no problems. Go see Al. However, as a fun project, perhaps another approach. Instead of waterproofing the unit, how about putting it in a 'house', like GoPro does with their cameras. Might work . . . | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I know the kuryakin ones work. My uly has one. Things I don't like about it: No digits Costly Limited range of measurements. My initial use for the proposed little voltmeter here is my X1 who just finally killed off its regulator after 89,000 miles. If it proves itself, I would apply it to other things like my generator, tractor, KLX250. Multiple applications mean multiple purchases. I am cheap/broke therefore $7 is a possible win especially with a 6V system as in my KLX250 dinosaur. Edit> This one might be still better since it has less stuff exposed on the back. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4391E35621&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-Test+%26+Measurement-_-9SIA4391E35621&gclid=CPXbnJqDssQCFdgLgQodficASA&gclsrc=aw.ds (Message edited by natexlh1000 on October 21, 2015) | ||
| Gregtonn |
Conformal coating is made specifically for moisture proofing electronics. It works. Do yourself a favor, get some and forget the home brews. G | ||
| Reepicheep |
Like this Greg? http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Urethane-Viscous-Coating -Temperature/dp/B000IC7ZQ2/ref=pd_sim_328_8?ie=UTF 8&refRID=0E8DH8ZA0P0JX1GHCVDQ How many coats does it take to be effective? | ||
| Hootowl |
Conformal coating won't seal the housing. You need some sort of potting material for that. Fun fact: Defense avionics come from the manufacturer with conformal coating on the circuit boards. After a 2M repair is made, the conformal coating is not reapplied. I've personally only experienced corrosion on a solder run or component once, and it was from a cold through-the-board solder joint. Most of the bad connection issues are at the edge connector. Other than the gold plating, there's no corrosion or moisture protection there. About half the time, reseating the cards fixes the WRA. In fact, kicking the box is on the pilot's checklist if something goes wrong in flight. You end up replacing a bunch of knobs, but it get them through the day. | ||
| Gregtonn |
After a 2M repair is made, the conformal coating is not reapplied. Someone is not doing their job. Conformal coat is a critical component of the repair. Reep, I don't know. Best to read the manufactures instructions or call their tech support. G | ||
| Hootowl |
"Someone is not doing their job." Incorrect assumption. The Navy doesn't procure the stuff. Reapplying it is not taught in 2M school. It just isn't done. Is that a bad thing? Apparently not. I worked in avionics for 12 years, and never saw a failure caused by not reapplying a coating. I'm guessing here, but I imagine the bean counters looked at the fault codes reported and saw that it wasn't an issue. If it was, you can be sure navair would alter their procedures. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I think the coating is to protect the parts that are stored prior to installation. My dad has a big box of Korean era surplus parts. They aren't coated but they are each individually wrapped in a way that would have protected them being dropped in the mud, left there, then placed on a shelf for 70 years. |
