| Author | Message | ||
     Wolfridgerider |
Superchips Bully Dog Diablo Sport Edge Jet Hypertech Banks Those are the brands I could find on Jegs website. Just wanted to know if they are worth the money. My 2007 new body style Chevy 4x4 w/5.3 V8 flex fuel has a check engine light that is not playing well with others. The code is for the bank 2 sensor 2 AKA the passenger side O2 sensor after the cat. A new O2 sensor has been installed but is still turning the check engine light on. The computer is saying the sensor is working so why is it turning the light on.... I haven't a clue. Its at the shop and the tech is scratching his head and so am I. SO!! I was thinking about getting a turner and bumping up the performance and "deleting" the 2nd O2 sensor. Anybody here have any experience with car tuners? | ||
| Sifo |
Is there a separate code for a burned out cat? It could be that the second sensor is out of range because of the cat not doing it's job. I'm not sure how you actually verify that though. There's usually a reason for a cat to burn out too, so simple replacement may be a temporary fix. | ||
| Thumper74 |
What code? | ||
| Etennuly |
Personally never tried a tuner on a gas engine. Drove a few diesels that the difference with a tuner was amazing. But the fuel mileage fell off and life span expectancy was cut in half when you actually used the extra power much. o2 sensor out of range could mean things upstream of it could be amiss, could be lean or rich. First o2 sensor is in hotter zone, it may not detect fubarness. Fouled plug, bad plug wire, bad injector, bad valve sealing. Pull the plugs on that side to inspect them. Compression test. Run it with hood open in dark environment to check wires. Check injector for dirty, loose wires, etc. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I don't remember the code sorry to say. The check engine light was on when I bought it. They told me it was a O2 sensor and hadn't had a chance to get it fixed (BS) The "old" one was new that I had replaced on Monday. I replaced the plugs, wires, air filter... blah blah blah I think its got a short some place.... finding it is a horse of another color... | ||
| Greg_e |
I would suggest one of the lesser expensive code scanners so you can read the code. Very likely you are dealing with an open wire or dead Catalyst. | ||
| Sifo |
A lot of auto parts stores will give you a free scan. | ||
| Patches |
I got an Actron CP9125 at Advanced Auto for $50.00 a few years back. It does what I need it to do. You might check the rubber seal on the gas cap. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
lets clear this thread up a little. the CODE is for the Bank 2 Sensor 2 What Thump wants to know is the SPECIFIC code number what I'm after is PERFORMANCE tuning info. I don't need a free read at the auto part store or double check my gas cap | ||
| Ratbuell |
Wow Mark...deep breath man... There are upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Upstream reads fuel mixture right out of the manifolds; downstream reads post-cat to make sure the cat is working properly. Upstream O2 issues could be EFI problems. Downstream could be a cat problem. Yes, you can "cut out" the downstream sensors with a tuner but it depends on the tuner. Read the fine print, or download the install/use manual .pdf. I've been looking around for something for my Cummins, and I know for a fact that Edge and Banks have the manuals on the websites. Can tuners work? Sure. I just sold a '10 Camaro SS with supercharged engine, no-cat exhaust, and tuned to 585 rwhp. Dead-nuts reliable in traffic, blows the tires off when you whack it at 90 mph. Insane automobile. Just make sure the software matches the hardware and don't have too much fun with that go-baby-go button. With my Cummins, I have gauges that have been in there since I got the truck - boost, EGT, and fuel pressure. If (and at 250k miles that's a BIG "if"!) I decide to add a tuner, I have baselines on those three vital functions. I know where they belong, and if I push things I will know how far out of line I'm getting them. But I suspect the "what was the code" questions were more along the lines of helping you figure out if it's a bad sensor...or a real problem. Try this - many newer cars have a self-diagnostic sequence. Without starting the engine, turn the key on-off-on-off-on. Digital odometers will show the actual P code; analog odometers will flash the check engine light. If it's a flash system, count the fast flashes, starting over at a long pause. I.e. five fast flashes followed by a pause then three fast flashes, is a code 53. But if you google your make/model I'm sure you can find the exact procedure for it. For my money...I'd fix the issue before trying to add more grunt. | ||
| Etennuly |
Are the worth the money? Probably if you want more performance, but they are better if used in conjunction with other toys. You know, things like a fresh air box, cat back exhaust, stepped up ignition stuff like coils and wires. Like all of our toys.....spend a grand on something and I'll find you something else that needs a grand to be spent on! Remember the Jeep?  I told you that would happen! My son put the air box and cat back on his 323 hp V6, 25-28 mpg, 2014 Camaro. Since it is likely pushing 330+ hp he did not feel the need to go to the tuner for the $$. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Joe, You read my post all wrong. Put a smile on your face and a laugh while you read it and report back  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
While looking at tuners on Jegs website. Some how I found myself looking at the Eldelbrock E Force supercharger.... | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'd still chase and fix the issue before I started adding go-faster bits...ESPECIALLY boost. Find out why that light is on in the first place. Only modify healthy engines. | ||
| Ourdee |
At my age, I always need to double check my gas cap. | ||
| 86129squids |
RD, I'm witcha... there could be problems if the gas cap vent malfunctions. I HAAATE it when I get vapor lock. Then, all hell breaks loose when I nocturnally fire up the dutch oven... (Message edited by 86129squids on October 02, 2015) | ||
| Xb9er |
Check out the auto cal from Black Bear Performance. They have you drive with a data loader, and you send it back and they design custom tunes just for your truck. They are kind of pricey but worth every penny according to the folks on gmfullsize.com | ||
| Patches |
Just trying to help Wolf.  You might repair the "eye-dee-ten-tee" errors first before the performance tune. You could be chasing one problem after another and never be satisfied. For what its worth the EVAP System is a closed circuit and when leaking causes more P-Codes than you would think. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Stopped by the shop to see if the mechanic has made any progress. Part of the wiring harness has a hole rubbed into it and may be he cause of said problem. We will see.... | ||
| Sifo |
You do need a healthy system BEFORE you do any tuning. Sounds likely that you have just found the issue causing the code. Do you plan on doing the tuning yourself or work with a third party tuner? If the latter, I would find a tuner you can trust, and ask them what hardware they prefer to work with. I'm not sure you are going to get that much in the way of performance without other hardware changes though. Intake, exhaust, etc. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
There is a reason I like going to a local shop that I trust. They had my Truck for a week (I was in NO hurry to get it back) They took their time.... pulled some hair out, said a few choice words, but in the end... they found the problem. There was a broken/frayed wire on the passenger side next to the fire wall. The mechanic said as soon as he fixed it and fired up the truck the light went out. Took it for test drive and all was well. I have no idea how many hours he worked on my truck but when I came time for the bill.... NO CHARGE They just got all my auto work. I don't think I will even change my own oil anymore Handed him a tip and drove the crap out of it on my way home. All systems are good to go I must say, I am rather happy | ||
| Etennuly |
 | ||
| Ourdee |
Good news. | ||
| Aesquire |
NOW that it's fixed, the answer is Yes, a tuner box can do wonders. Or melt your engine. Up to you. at the best working extreme are boxes that replace the existing electronics and give you full control over fuel air mixture, shift points, boost, nitrous, etc. That's a bit beyond your needs with a stock engine. Since the only power boost a stock engine can absorb is to richen the fuel ratio in a few spots. For that several of the boxes work fine, I have no preference and leave that to others who have more experience. Like with all motorsports, it's a matter of the weakest link and the most flow restrictive part. Pick the choke point and fix it and move to the next, until goals are reached, or budget is blown. Almost all the easy performance tuners that plug into the stock system simply increase the Time the injector is open to boost power, to make more, you need bigger injectors, then less restrictive intake & exhaust, then head work... ADI, etc. etc. I have seem "hidden" setups that test stock, and run stock, until you hit the "secret button", usually manipulating the cruise control buttons to call up the performance stages you have programmed. That one seems to work well. Pick a box that will "grow" with the mods you make. One that will work with the bigger injectors ( and fuel pump ) you need to get lots more power. Also pick a box that you can turn everything back to stock when you need it inspected. Without tearing the car apart and restoring it to stock. Be aware that when you burn the candle brighter, it doesn't last as long. Shine on. A Bullydog box is available for my VW TDI. About $500. About 10 hp. Not a terrible deal, dollar per HP, and with a few thousand more, ( exhaust, injectors, bigger intercooler ) 30+ hp is available. But then stuff breaks. The gas VW's get more power from the tuner box, so I assume the TDI is running closer to it's limits........ and perhaps beyond | ||
| Tootal |
Wow, sounds like you found a mechanic and not just a part replacer! A rare breed these days it seems! Glad he figured it out. I really hate electrical problems! | ||
| Rparnel1 |
I have 2. one on my diesel Passat and one on my gas f-150. Both are mild tunes. The diesel one got rid of the turbo lag and made it a little peppier. No hit on mileage and no black smoke. Mild tune. Got about 100K on the tune. The gas one is for a '99 F-150 with the 5.4l motor. Have hi-flow intake and exhaust, so the tuner is set to match up with that. Requires that I run premium gas. Also firmed up the transmission shifts and has a tow setting. Made truck much more peppy. Have about 50k on that one. Diesel motors generally have much more performance margin that can be gained with a tuner. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Light came back on....  SO! I took it back to the shop and he looked at me and said "NO WAY!" He then squinted his eyes a little and went to get the code reader. NOW she throws the Evap Canister solenoid is bad code. You think I would be a little  But I'm not. I hoping this will fix the gas only fills up at a trickle problem | ||
| Thumper74 |
Hrm. Evap canister should be easy enough... Use a power probe and vacuum tester, energize it and see if it purge, or doesn't. If he's got a fancy scanner, he should be able to actuate the solenoid to see if it purges. Then there's smoke testers and so on. Not a big deal. I would be watching it, though. I'm not saying he's wrong at all, but if you are continuously getting codes after the next repair, I would suspect a bad PCM. I've gotten more grey hairs chasing a bad PCM, than being married. If you want, PM me the VIN. I'll dig into... | ||
| Thumper74 |
Also, tuners on NA gas motors=meh. I've seen great results on forced induction cars and diesels. I haven't had great results with the tuners for gas motors. They seem to play with timing and transmission line pressures for firmer shifts, but do very little for performance or economy. I'm not saying that they don't work, BUT the benefits aren't worth the cost of admission. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Something has got to be messed up somewhere along the line when it comes to the gas tank. When it comes time to get gas, you can't pump it faster than a trickle. The truck at one point in time was a Ohio Department of Natural Resources vehicle and was buried DEEP in the mud. I can't tell you how much crap has come off the underside of it. But it would be safe to say, I could grow a tater or two under the truck when I got it. |
