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Buell Forum » Quick Board » Archive through February 01, 2015 » Halp! Toyota Solara died, need advice « Previous Next »

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86129squids
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, as always all good plans get crapped on...

We were just heading out of town this morning, got about 4 miles down the road, and the car just died. It'll crank over, all/most electrical seems fine,
all fuses looked fine, just no motor running.

I'm heading back with some tools to tinker with it, check spark and fuel pressure- anyone on here have some other ideas?

If you care to, shoot me some PM's on this- they'll go to my voicemail, I should be able to get them on the smartphone.

Thanks!
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Hughlysses
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Timing belt? I think most Toyotas have chains, but it's worth checking.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any new noises when you turn it over?

Dead alternator?
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not true. Our LandCruiser has a belt. Every 90K miles Toyota says to change it! I know of 0 modern models with chain timing.

Guessing there is a clogged/frozen fuel filter.
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it is fuel injected, check for spark. No spark, the crank position sensor would be high on my list of usual suspects . . .
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Ferris_von_bueller
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

looks like most are chain

http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id /7690/~/does-my-vehicle-have-a-timing-belt-or-timi ng-chain%3F
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86129squids
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just checked the main engine relay and the EFI relay, it's a moot point, I'm just calling in some roadside assistance now. thanks anyway
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Desertdan
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 02:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

there is fuel in the tank ? ok kidding kidding . If you do find fuel pressure at the fuel rail for the injectors then I second Akbuell's suggestion for the crank position sensor , after that would be thinking about an inline fuseable link , there hard to find without a book.
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86129squids
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The main thing about having a vehicle breakdown in the winter is, having to deal with the cold and the cussing whilst maybe/maybe not figuring out the problem.
I know full well my limitations as a mechanic, quite happy to have someone else fix it most of the time. If it's fairly simple, like brakes or oil, I'll do it.

Wish us luck! Hopefully it won't cost a fortune to fix...
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Desertdan
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good luck there , can't imagine working on it in those temps. I'm sure its something minor , even the ECM usually doesn't just give it up, most have a limp mode so your looking at something not that expensive unless the mechanic isn't well trained or dishonest. by the way did you have spark and fuel pressure ?
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86129squids
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 05:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Meh- I decided that even if I checked those, whatever the cause might be I probably couldn't fix it- plus, I've been watching the radar trying to determine when the rain's gonna show up.

NO GO for working on a broke car in the cold-ass rain, can't afford pneumonia!
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86129squids
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, craptastic. Gots a broken timing belt. Bye-bye, $7-800.

My mechanic said that 85% of the time, everything else should be OK, but there is a chance of seeing a bent valve... keeping my fingers crossed on this one.

I'm blessed to make good enough $$$ in general to cover something like this when it happens, but that doesn't alleviate the suckiness too much.

Oh well.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, craptastic. Gots a broken timing belt. Bye-bye, $7-800.

Woohoo! Do I win anything for correctly diagnosing it?

Sorry for your pain. The fact that you didn't hear any hideous noises afterward hopefully means it's a non-interference engine and didn't suffer any damage. On the plus side, that's probably what it would have cost if you'd done it before it broke like you should have.
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Desertdan
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 04:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

good call Hughlysses , I hope they recommended changing the water pump while your right there and have it apart. If You had a warm place out of the weather and You didn't need the car real soon You could do the belt and water pump , there are timing marks to go by to get the cam back in time with the crank.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You'll be lucky to only be out $700-800.

If the pistons have kissed the valves, you could be looking at a new head.
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Sifo
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Keep a good thought. I had a VW that I went through a snow drift with and it died immediately after. Lots of head scratching on that one. Eventually I figured out that the snow floated the belt off of the pulley enough to let it skip a bunch of notches. No damage done on that one. It is possible to get lucky.
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Or new pistons. Steel valves can damage aluminum pistons when they make contact. Hope you have a non interference engine.
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Etennuly
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry to hear that Brad. Given that it had quit before I didn't think that problem would present itself.

My assistant just went through that problem with his Nissan pickup. He needed to replace the water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, and idler pulley while he was in there as a matter of good maintenance. Don't be surprised if your mechanic looks at doing the same.
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Fast1075
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What year model and engine size is it?
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86129squids
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

'99, 4 banger. My mechanic is pretty thorough, it will get a new water pump and the whole shebang. Plus an oil change and wheels rotated.

I'm not familiar with the term "non-interference engine", could someone enlighten me? Good news is when it crapped out, we were barely doing 40, 45MPH, and I'd just barely given it a little gas. My guy says it's 85% probable that the motor is OK, had I been going interstate speeds, maybe not so much...

La tee da.
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A non interference engine is one where the valves and pistons never occupy the same space. If a timing belt breaks in such an engine, there is no danger of valves and pistons meeting.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

^ As opposed to an interference engine, which WILL damage valves and/or pistons if the timing belt breaks. High performance engines are more often of the interference type, as they have higher-lift camshafts and higher compression.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I heard that Honda's typically are interference engines, and Toyota's typically aren't.

I have a Sienna minivan with 140k miles on it. It's been an annoying vehicle in a lot of different ways, but I bought it for longevity and reliability, and it for sure delivered that.
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86129squids
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, my GF had gone over 300K miles with this car before the belt broke- it really has been a great, super reliable car.

My Nissan hardbody pickup has been rock-solid reliable as well... although I do believe it's time to replace the timing chain on it too. Whenever it starts up from cold, I can hear the timing chain rattling under the valve covers until the oil pressure kicks up- apparently it has a hydraulic tensioner, does it for about 3-5 seconds every time on a cold start.

On one hand, I know I should do it, on the other, pop goes another $700 to do that job! I can walk/bike/skateboard to work, or take one of my two bikes as needed...

Let's just hope my old Nissan keeps on keepin' on!
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Timing belts aren't difficult to replace, if you're handy with a wrench. Just takes a bit of time. That said, I'm due for one on my TDI in about 2000 miles, and I'm going to have it done by the dealer. My Jetta has been so reliable, that I forget it is a mechanical device. Tearing the front end off the motor would only serve to confuse me about the true nature of my vehicle. : )
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Hughlysses
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Timing belts aren't difficult to replace, if you're handy with a wrench. Just takes a bit of time. That said, I'm due for one on my TDI in about 2000 miles, and I'm going to have it done by the dealer.

I changed the one on my 940T Volvo about 5 times during the time I owned the car. It took about an hour after I'd done it a couple of times.

I paid an independent mechanic to change the one on my TDI (2006 model) a couple of years ago, while a friend changed his himself. It was an all-day job on that car, plus you needed a couple of special tools. You had to temporarily support the engine from above so that you can remove one of the lower engine mounts to get at the timing belt.
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Fast1075
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All I can find says a '99 2.2 Toyota 4 banger is a non-interference engine. You should be good to go with a new belt, tensioner, and water pump.
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86129squids
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On a different note- if anyone here would be interested in an almost new 2014 Volkswagen Jetta TDI diesel wagon, white, with nice blacked out wheels and Yokohama tires,
I can point you to my buddy... he bought it last year for his longish commute to work, and they laid him off a couple of months ago.

I didn't ask about the $$$, but I'm guessing he'd let someone take over payments. If anyone here has ideas about how to sell that thing, holla.
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86129squids
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2015 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, and $635.00 later, we get back a fixed Toyota... yeesh! Actually I thought it'd cost more, so, yay I guess. Our mechanic remarked on how well it drove, with great power for its age... so I guess we'll take it.

Now, back to rebuilding my $$$ comfort cushion...
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