| Author | Message | ||
     Silveradotx |
I've got an opportunity to pick up a rear wheel from a buddy but I wanted to get some second opinions. The wheel had a bearing let go on one side which scratched up where the bearing is pressed in. From what I can tell, and after we talked about it, it looks like once the spacer and the bearing are in place there shouldn't be an issue with the usability of the wheel. Thoughts? | ||
| Sifo |
What exactly is scratched up? Is it the actual cup where the bearing seats into, or is it cosmetic on the outside? | ||
| Reepicheep |
If the bearing outer race didn't spin in the wheel bore, it should be serviceable. Just file off any burrs on the outside before you press in the new bearing. | ||
| Etennuly |
Easy enough to test fit an old bearing. If it goes in fairly easy when it's cold it's not good. If it has a bit of friction I would not be afraid to put a little epoxy on it while installing it. Look very closely for stress cracks in the opening. | ||
| Trojan |
Why was the wheel replaced in the first place? If it was replaced due to a fault then I wouldn't bother, but if it was just a spare then why not  | ||
| Silveradotx |
My buddy picked it up as a spare, don't know anything beyond that. From the picture I have it looks like the surface that the outer race will be touching should be fine. | ||
| Silveradotx |
 | ||
| Reepicheep |
So was the inner spacer was crushed by over torquing, which put a side load on the bearings? The bearing then collapsed inwards and started machining the wheel, but the outer race never seized and spun in the wheel bore? The inner spacer should define the seating depth, so I can see how that could be fine. Or did the whole bearing spin in the wheel bore, and just cleanly machine it? That would have ruined the wheel (or at least require it be machined and sleeved). I would have liked to see that that bearing looked like when it came out! | ||
| Sifo |
From the picture the contact surface for the outer race looks in good shape. Like was said above, the spacer defines the seating depth, so you are probably good to go. You can see that surface better than a picture shows though, if it looks torn up, you would at least need repair work done. I've heard of knurling being done to reduce the diameter again, then machining to the correct diameter. I would consider using Loctite bearing mount if you do this, just to ensure that it doesn't spin with the slightly reduced contact area. That does make the next bearing change a bit more work though. I'm not sure how I feel about sleeving it. That has got to reduce the strength of the bearing support, but there's probably a good bit of extra strength engineered in. You are basically reducing the built in margin for disaster. No doubt it gets done often though. To me the big question will be how does the bearing press in? If it gives a good snug fit, you should be fine. |
