| Author | Message | ||
     Badlionsfan |
Here's the timeline in photos. Started out racing this--  Was offered a sweet deal on a chassis and body, so I brought this home--  After tearing up the blue car again, we figured we'd take a few weeks and get the new car done and get a few races on it this year in preparation for out first full season next year. Let the tear down begin--  All the meat picked off the bone--  Finally, the completed car--  Ran it last week. Due to extra races I wasn't able practice before the heat race. Started outside pole, held second for a lap and a half til the motor fell flat on its face. Had at least one, maybe two plugged fuel injectors. Changed them, started at the back of the 19 car feature. Got up to around 13th I guess, then spun out. Track got very dry-slick and we didn't tighten it up enough. I also was getting used to "roll steer", which we couldn't set up with the old car. Passed a few cars after the restart, ended up 15th. Next weekend they're having a big 40 lap feature, increased payout race. We're gonna try to qualify for that, then on Sunday head to another track and run. One more race on the 6th then it'll be time to start working weekends to stock up on spare parts, new tires, possibly a newer motor, etc for next season. | ||
| Daves |
Looks like fun! | ||
| Sifo |
You must have had some money at some time! I don't think you will in the future though! Congratulations on your first event in the new car. I'm sure you are having the time of your life.  | ||
| Badlionsfan |
Honestly, it's not as expensive as a lot of other forms of racing. Most of the consumable parts are pretty cheap. For instance, my car uses a radiator from early 80's goldwings. After I bent mine in half, I got another one on eBay for 13.95. Rod ends are cheap, and we have a machinest/ fabricator who can make just about anything and charges 2/3 of the retail prices. | ||
| Etennuly |
Must be the original car was a solid front axle. Start out with the bottom of your lower ball joints at a level even with the center of the lower A arm pivot bolts. Everything else will adjust around that basis, right and left. Set your steering stops so that you can turn to the right 5% more than to the left. Make sure the RF tire clears at full lock. That can save you in a lot of spin out situations. It sounds like you are in the time of walking around the pits and innocently "looking" at the set ups of other racers. Remember the only one's worth looking at are the top three or four regular racers and the track champion's. Asking may get you some help, but most will hide their good stuff that will keep you at bay. Do not tell them what you are doing on your car, it may help them without you knowing. Ideas are money in racing, don't give away what you come up with even if it is similar to theirs. This is where story telling comes into play. You need to keep something in your "pocket" that will always make them not know exactly what you are doing. Intimidation starts here. Damn, I miss this stuff. | ||
| Badlionsfan |
Both front clips and suspensions are the same. The difference is in the rear. The old car had the rear arm mounts inside the body, and only and 3 holes to pick from for adjustments. The new car has the arms outside the body and mount to the chassis with pinch clamps for more adjustability. My friend has gone all in on learning how to set it up. He's bought several books, set up tools etc. I'm just trying to figure out how to drive it for now. We're good friends with the track champion, and have working relationships with people in the business of setting these things up. Everyone says we're on the right track, I just gotta get as much seat time as I can to learn the car, the track etc. The new car also has the right gear ratio for the track, so I'm adjusting to that somewhat too. It's coming together, can't wait for next season and see what we can do in our first full season. | ||
| Buellinachinashop |
My dwarf car is still a work in progress.  |
