| Author | Message | ||
     Thumper74 |
I replaced the engine on my 2004 Civic, stock replacement D17A1. The old one died at 150k and the new one has 24k. I put on a new belt, tensioner and waterpump, but left all the sensors on it. The fuel pump primes and there's spark, but no fuel. Spark plugs are bone dry, injectors are not firing. Compression is good. All engine management grounds are sanded clean and degreased. Camshaft position sensor: 12 volts from the PCM to the cam sensor, 0.3 v KOEO from the signal wire (at connector and PCM), 1.5 v spikes while cranking (at connector and PCM). I swapped out the sensor from the original engine, but I get the same readings (I dropped the sensor from work bench height... twice) Crankshaft position sensor: 12 volts from PCM to crank position sensor, 0.3 v KOEO from signal wire (at connector and PCM), 5.0 v spikes while cranking (at connector and PCM). It should be a 5.0 v signal from the cam sensor, but can't figure it out I'm thinking bad ground from the PCM to the cam sensor, but I'm not sure how to test it. | ||
| Etennuly |
Is your battery fully charged? Did you put the oil in it? How long has it been since this engine has run? Injectors could be gummed up from sitting, especially with regular alcohol gas. Try changing out an injector(if it can be done) to see if that cyl will get fuel. | ||
| Damnut |
Go to Auto Zone or a local parts store that loans tools and get a fuel pressure tester. You need to see if you have fuel at the fuel rail before you start messing with anything else. Could be just a faulty pressure regulator. Also you need to cycle the fuel pump a bunch of times before the fuel gets to the injectors when swapping in a new engine. DAMHIK. | ||
| Teeps |
Do you have any service data? If not send me a pmail and I'll see what I can do. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Perhaps you did everything right and the engine computer thinks it's been stolen? My 2007 Fit has some sort of engine kill switch that would freak out if I ever replaced the battery. (The dealer told me this when I bought the car) Maybe the ECU doesn't like its new co-worker? | ||
| Nik |
Have you tried to read any codes from the ecu? | ||
| Thumper74 |
I didn't tinker today, wasn't feeling too hot. It's got good fuel pressure at 45 psi (spec is 40-47). Battery is fully charged. Oil is full. I can't possibly know how long it's been sitting, it was on the shelf on a pallet when picked up. I may swap the injectors out since I have a set I know is good, but it's unlikely that all the injectors were bad at the same time, but I could see them being clogged. Teeps, I've got access to All Data when I'm at work, but not much at home. The radio may freak out if it's unhooked, requiring a code to turn it back on. If the battery is unhooked for long periods, you may have to perform an idle learn procedure, but that's all. The ECU shouldn't know it's new co-worker... An ECM replacement does require some anti-theft programming at the dealer. I've used the same harness in the same car to the same anti-theft system. Now that it's been pointed out, it does seem like a passive anti-theft issue... I don't have a code scanner, but a nicer would would be great... I could just watch for a dropped signal, but I don't work at a shop anymore... | ||
| Darth_villar |
Have you tried a multi-meter in the injector plugs to insure electricity is getting to them? You did put a grounding strap back on the engine correct? | ||
| Thumper74 |
Yeah, grounding straps are good with solid, clean connections. They aren't clicking when I check them with a stethoscope. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Sounds like it could be an immobiliser issue. Have you tried cycling the locking system a few times? I know it sounds daft, but some vehicles require it after the battery has been off. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Does it have an auto transmission with a neutral safety switch? | ||
| Fahren |
Noid light check for pulsing signal to injectors? | ||
| Darth_villar |
Check all injector harnesses. You can hook up a power supply to the injectors to insure they work... but if none fire, then it is definitely a problem with all of them. The two most likely things would be a loose or dis-connected harness. Or some ECM logic that is saying the car is stolen/crashed/etc. | ||
| Azxb9r |
Trying to test your CKP and CMP sensors with a volt meter is basically worthless, you need a DSO(lab scope). On the 04 Civic the CMP and CKP are hall effect sensors with a 12v feed (not 5v). Verify that you have power to your injectors, then see if they are being commanded to fire. If you dont have a noid you can use a normal test light. You are looking for the light to pulse while cranking. Before getting too carried away with testing, look at the immobilizer light on the dash. It should come on when you turn the key on, then go off when you start it. If the light starts flashing while you are cranking, the immobilizer system is active and preventing the car from starting. You said that you have spark and fuel pressure but no injector operation which is what you have when the immobilizer is active. The immobilizer system works off the ignition key...it doesnt care about the engine. | ||
| Thumper74 |
I've had the flu and it's been pretty rough. Lost 10 pounds three days. Once I feel a little better, I'll check the immobilizer light before i do anything else. | ||
| Azxb9r |
Good luck with it...I hope you feel better. | ||
| Thumper74 |
Fudge. I cycled the key in the drivers lock a few times and it started right up... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
LOL! win! Congrats on losing that unwanted weight too  | ||
| Azxb9r |
Good thing you did not buy any un needed parts eh? Sometimes the immobilizer will have a tantrum...at least it was simple.  | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
These modern cars.... carbs....points.... harumph harumph!  | ||
| Damnut |
In the door lock or the ignition? |
