| Author | Message | ||
     Orman1649 |
I figure there has to be someone here with window experience so.... I live in the Seattle area and badly need new windows. I have 16 single pane double hungs that came with the house in '72. Some are rotting, some don't close, some don't open….all are cold and suck. I think I have it narrowed down to 3 different quotes at this point all in the 20-25k range. Our house is quite unique and we want something that looks similar to what we have now. Dark outside with a cherry color wood grain look inside. We plan on dying in this place. We have oil heat so we want something that’s quality and energy efficient. The first one is a Simonton vinyl window. Cherry wood grain look inside and factory painted vinyl outside. Llifetime warranty on the windows, but only 10 year on the painted exterior. Double glaze, low E, argon filled. Interior grids. The second is a Plygem vinyl window. Cherry wood grain look inside and dark vinyl outside. Lifetime warranty. Triple glaze (only $600 more than double glaze) low E, argon filled. Interior grids. The third is a Marvin fiberglass window. Stainable fake wood grain surface inside and dark fiberglass outside. Lifetime Warranty Double Glaze, low E, argon filled. Exterior grids. Anyone have any tips or suggestions? Love/Hate any of the brands above? There another brand I should consider? | ||
| Sifo |
Not familiar with the Marvin fiberglass, but when we did windows in our house I found Marvin to be a bit overpriced for what you get. YMMV. Pella windows, I've heard from customers and a technician can be very problematic with some of their cool features. stay away from them. We went with vinyl clad Anderson windows with wood on the inside. Very happy with them. It made a huge difference in heating/cooling bills and the house is just more comfortable. Painted exterior windows aren't a problem other than they are a maintenance item every 7-10 years or so. Keep them up and they will last. Ignore them... I've heard that triple glazing adds very little benefit. The major heat loss is around the edges of the glass with argon filled double glazed windows already. Triple glazing doesn't help that aspect. It's nice not getting any frost or condensation on the windows, even when it's far below zero! | ||
| Fahren |
Concur with Sifo on Andersen. I assume you are talking about sash replacements, not about ripping out the entire window frames, re-doing exterior siding and trim, interior trim, and all that. I would stick to sash replacements, where they only take out the small wood bead that holds in the actual sashes, pull those out, install a new slider strip on each side jamb, and set the new sashes into that, leaving interior and exterior trim intact. They can also come with a new sill cover piece to cover the old sill if it is old, damaged wood. I have done this on historic houses in historic districts, where you could never get away with vinyl. Interiors are clear pine also, that can easily be stained to get a good match and finish close to your existing wood. No fake look or feel on the inside. Vinyl inserts use a frame plus the sashes, so your actual free and clear glass dimension is decreased from existing - not so (or not at all noticeably so) with sash replacements. The Integrity product by Marvin is Marvin's attempt to come out with a line that can compete with some of the less costly windows from other mfgr's. It's not up to standard Marvin spec, but they still bank on the Marvin name. They are fine as windows go, and I believe you can get the Ultrex exterior now with a true wood interior, so no fake stuff inside, and good, no-rot fake stuff on the outside. I think if you want Marvin sash replacements, you have to go for the full, true Marvin, not the Integrity line. $1,250 - $1,560 per window (16 windows for $20-25k) is a lot. http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite/A W/Page/awReplacement_InsertWindows/1162992734076 | ||
| Vtpeg |
My cost on a quality vinyl full frame replacement window at the specs you've called for is near $650. You have nearly all the bells and whistles. For a little more money you can have a custom sized new construction window (new interior and exterior casing), that will be more efficient. Replacements, either full frame or sash kits, don't do anything around the existing frame for air sealing or insulation. That will be more work to install. Keep in mind a top shelf window only has an R5, which is a hole in an r19 wall. | ||
| Cyclonedon |
Simonton makes the best vinyl windows on the market but I'm a big fan of Andersen windows myself. They mark the glass on every window made making for replacing all the parts very easy which no other window supplier can match. I've sold Marvin, Pella, and other brands but I prefer Andersen the best. Now Andersen doesn't make a window with the cherry wood interiors unless maybe you get the KML (Architectural commercial line) and they are extremly expensive. You can get the Andersen Woodwright series with maple interiors you can stain to look like cherry. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
I have no idea if such a product is available to you over there, but when we renovated our Breton farmhouse we bought the best we could & it was Aluminium/Wood. The outside is powdercoated extruded alloy, & real wood on the inside. Ours were Burgundy red with oak inside, absolutely top. The other advantage is that you get a better thermal barrier in the frame & virtually no thermal distortion. We spent nearly 5 years researching products & planning before we attacked the house & it was time well spent. | ||
| Chauly |
It's probably not an option on a house built in '72, but there has been much discussion in the restoration trades about rebuilding double-hung sashes instead of wholesale replacement with something newer. I have a house built in '08 (1908) that I am systematically taking apart the windows, re-hanging the sash weights, adding weatherstripping, stripping the 4 layers of paint(!), and repairing/repainting. The result is very satisfying, and combined with the triple-track storm windows the house has installed, free of drafts and condensation. Cost for each window is largely time and effort, but maybe $25-$35 in materials each. Pick up a copy of Fine Homebuilding magazine and drool... | ||
| Fahren |
It's true, Chauly. On an older house, it's one of the most-preferred options from a preservation point of view. Another good thing about that is that you don't have the low-e glass, which can be great in some locations (unprotected western exposures), but really kills solar heat gain if you want/need it for a southern exposure. My house has old single-pane windows and storms like yours. In summer, the windows are shaded by dense maple foliage, but in winter, those non-low-e windows let all kinds of solar heat into the house. Kind of like working on your own bike or car, working to restore/repair/maintain your home feels great. As you said, maybe not worth it for a 1972 house. And, as others have said, air gaps and infiltration are the biggest cause of heat loss. | ||
| Sifo |
If you are up for it I would go with the new construction style windows, not the replacements that go into the old frame. Most homes from the 70s weren't built with details of getting the window frames sealed up well. I saw what came out of our house from 78 vs. the new installation. A good installer is critical. We saved a few bucks by doing the interior finishing work ourselves. It's a lot of work to stain and finish the interior windows along with any necessary drywall repair and then new trim. Most installers will just slap up oversize trim as a short cut. It just screams of short cuts on the work IMO. You will need some degree of skill and at least a miter saw in the way of specialty tools to do it yourself. It can be an option though. I love not having to deal with storm windows too. We also replaces the double hung windows in the kitchen and breakfast area with awning windows that swing out from the bottom with a crank. It really opened up the view in a huge way. It really changed the whole feel of that area of the house. | ||
| Orman1649 |
Thanks for all the input so far guys. I think I'll contact Anderson and have them come out. I have made sure that any of the companies we have narrowed it down to either have their own installers or have a long standing relationship with their subs and are willing to warranty the installation. I need to double check but I believe the 3 I have it narrowed down to have a lifetime installation warranty. I am anticipating repair needed on multiple windows. One of the sils has stuff growing out of it and part of the window is severely rotted. Marvin = $26226.41 Simonton = $20908.19 Plygem = $27,253.54 or $27,856.54 for triple glaze And a pic of the house  | ||
| Chauly |
Mighty green. Rain much?  | ||
| Sifo |
BTW, things like rotted sills can be replaced fairly easily. No need to replace windows if that's your only issue. Most houses from the 70s can really benefit from new windows though. Nice looking place! |
