| Author | Message | ||
     Wolfridgerider |
That looks SWEET Jim! | ||
| Etennuly |
Most excellent! A purty piece too! I put a new copper/bronze three row in mine, only did one trip on it when I tore out the axles a few years ago. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I need to get the Jeep back soon.... the desire to tinker has me looking at Honda CX500's and the like... I would love to build a Cafe Racer of some sort. Must resist | ||
| Damnut |
New shifter arrived and in she went today. Removed my np208 and replaced it with a shorter np205. Was going to twin stick it but that'll have to wait for another day. Next week.......finish the wiring. Yeah me. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Yeah you! Got a new rear door latch from a breakers & some trim bits so the Disco looks decent in the back now. Got a fuel starvation problem though, it's pulling air in some where (diesel remember) so I've got to go through it, to find where. I don't mind too much as it means I'll have checked the whole system, but that's for after christmas. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
YO VERN!! look what I found at "all things jeep dot com"  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Nice stirrup, Mark... So...anyone have any experience on a YJ, with the threadserts that hold the transfer case skidplate to the frame? I had a couple bolts break off when my clutch was replaced, and the plate has started to sag. Is there a fix? IIRC, the bottom of the frame has a threaded insert welded in, that the bolt threads up into...am I stuck trying to use good aim, and drilling out the broken bolt to reuse the existing threads? | ||
| Etennuly |
Had any luck with an 'easy out'? When I have something like a frame rail with welded in nuts and a bolt has broken off flush, I like to drill the broken bolt, then heat it and the nut with a torch, then apply an easy out to unscrew it. If all of that gets ugly you could just cut out the nut and weld in a new one. The "good aim" sounds like it is coming from not taking the plate off and out of the way. If you think you can use a drill and easy out, just jack the plate up against the frame so that the hole aligns with the broken bolt. That would be your best shot with the plate in place. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yeah, once I finish moving I'm gonna tackle it. Its currently sitting tag-less in the new garage (qualifies for Historic plates next month - $52 for 2 years instead of $180, so I let 'em expire in November instead of renewing at $180), so its out of the weather. I haven't even taken a swing at it yet. Noticed the plate-sag when I trailered it up to the new garage - eye-level with the frame while I strapped it to the trailer is what tipped me off. (shrug) I'll get to it. | ||
| Fast1075 |
For any axle fab work or frame work or such, there is a company called RuffStuff that makes all manner of bits and brackets. I used one of their kits on the 8.8 conversion axle I did on the MJ. Extremely stout, made of 3/8" steel. Top notch stuff for the fabricator. (Message edited by fast1075 on December 24, 2011) | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
 I miss my heep... its running well and being driven... just waiting for the new gears to come in.... but now my Durango is starting to give me a hard way to go... ELECTRICAL... I hate electrical problems! stupid blower motor resistor!... AGAIN | ||
| Ratbuell |
...and this is why we can't give Mark anything nice...  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
that's what my wife says...... but I have FUN!! | ||
| Thumper74 |
Senior Wolf, the heat only working on one setting? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I know what you're thinking..... and changing that pain in the A$$ resistor is a yearly thing... If I'm lucking some times twice. Nukeblue thinks the blower motor my be headed south.... | ||
| Thumper74 |
Could be... i think there may even be an updated resistor/pigtail from Dodge. What year? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
2001 I just installed a new pigtail.... | ||
| Thumper74 |
I thought that was it, I KNOW you have a voltmeter laying around, check the resistance of the fan motor. It's been a while, but low resistance in the motor=bad, I think the new motors had somewhere around 3.0 ohms resistance between the two leads. | ||
| Xl1200r |
You guys have me looking for a 2-door cherokee... | ||
| Fast1075 |
If you find a Cherokee, crawl under it with an icepick and "probe" the floorboards for rust throughs. A lot of them had undetected windshield leaks that rusted out the floorboards. Also the passenger side floor above the catalyctic converter is another rust prone area. If you can find one that is rust free, get on it, they are great rigs that do amazingly well. Stay away from older V-6 models. The 4 banger is a stout engine if a bit underpowered compared to the 4.0. The AX15 is the best manual trans, DO NOT buy a rig with a BA5 or BA10 transmission. If auto trans is more in line, the AW4 Aisin transmission is completely bulletproof. (Toyota used the same trans in the Turbo Supra). | ||
| Thumper74 |
Plus the AW4 can be made bombproof in the unlikely event it were to fail... The 2 door Cherokees were good looking, but the consensus is that the 4 door was the better wheeler of the two... I think it was because the body flex, but I can't remember. | ||
| Damnut |
Well my weekly Wednesday work on the Jeep day resulted in a Lokar throttle cable being installed. I had to put my computer and fusebox/relays in the center console because I had about an extra 1.5 feet of wiring that I had to deal with. I tried to tuck the computer under the dash but there was shit for room and I had the extra wiring to deal with so the best place for it was the center console. I need a bigger console now.  I also got my 8.8 rearend all welded up, shock mounts welded and rear shocks installed. The only thing left is to weld in my trackbar mount. I'm contemplating on not running a rear track bar. Any experiences here on running or not running a rear track bar? | ||
| Jim2 |
On my 96' Cherokee that I bought new, I just recently discovered rust issues in the roof were the roof and the front windshield meet. It rusted from the inside out. I had it repaired professionally. The guy explained to me that the roof on the Cherokee is two sheets of metal about 2" apart and filled with foam. The roof rack mounting points can develop small leaks around the mounting screws. The water then finds it's way to the lowest points which on the Cherokee is the entire perimeter but the lowest is the front roof/windshield joint and the two very back corners near the tail lid hinges. He also warned to keep the leaves out of the windshield channel (under the rubber seal). If the channel is blocked the water stands instead of running off. I have no other signs of rust anywhere below the roof perimeter. I love my XJ and all four doors. If you look for one check the roof perimeter very carefully. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The XJ 2 doors are heavier. Extra bracing or something, because of the big ol' door holes. I always thought I wanted a 2 door...but I really love my $400 four door. | ||
| Fast1075 |
I have owned both. I did get the 2 door hung up once and had trouble getting the door open to get out. But the left front tire was at least 2 feet in the air at the time. And that was with a Rubicon Express long arm suspension. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Pictures or it didn't happen!....  | ||
| Damnut |
Weekly Wednesday Report: I got most of the wiring taken care of yesterday. I hate ••••••• wiring!!! I have about a half dozen more connections to make and I'll be able to turn the motor over. I'll probably be sending it out to get the driveshafts made in a few weeks. Getting there.......... slowly. | ||
| Damnut |
Vern...... I haven't forgotten about you. I have to find some cardboard to fit these doors into. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Got any updated pics Jim? I'm still in a holding pattern.... waiting for the "Come and get it" phone call.... | ||
| Etennuly |
No problem at all Jim. It will be into Spring time before I get back at it. Thank you. Mark, have you got that think back from the builders yet? |
