| Author | Message | ||
     Wolfridgerider |
If its like my Dana 30 on the front of my Jeep, Part #31 is what you will need to replace  This video shows him replacing the seals about half way thru | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yeah, doing some research it looks like I remove the 4x4 engagement motor from the right side of the housing, and that hole gives me access to the seal, which is outboard of the motor (allowing axle lube to lube the motor). Looks to be less-than-fun...but not un-doable. | ||
| Etennuly |
The Dana 30s have the seal inboard on the gear housing side. The problem there is that the axle tube can fill with mud and water. We used to have problems with this in winter in NW Pa. The mud would freeze locking the right axle in place. Lock in that hub and the RF wheel would not turn. Joe your 60's seal should be in the outboard end of the axle tube. I did not know that yours had an actuator. That may change the game a bit. Where is your service manual?   | ||
| Ratbuell |
Manual is here on my laptop. One o' dem newfangled pee-dee-eff thingamajiggers  1. remove wheel, brake, hub, and axle shaft 2. remove actuator motor 3. using a drift or a punch, remove old seal 4. using specialty tool (which I'll "make" from threaded rod and a big socket), pull new seal into position 5. reinstall actuator 6. reinstall axle, hub, brake, and wheel The very end of the diff housing has a dust seal in it, which will also get replaced. | ||
| Thumper74 |
The D60 doesn't use an inboard/outboard seal? I know the Fords use a inner oil seal, as well as an outer 'dust' seal to keep the grime/mud/dirt out. You generally need to replace them for any work where you disturb the axle shaft. Ratbuell, I made a special for this job. You know the smaller seal/bearing drivers? Like this: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools -Garage-and-Equipment/Bearing-and-Race/_/N-264s?fi lterByKeyWord=bearing&fromString=search Only weld a nut with the correct thread onto a longer piece of steel pipe to reach through the axle housing to the other side and drive the seal home.. Yeah, it can be cumbersome, but it works. Total investment? Under $10.00 | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Well the Jeep has went to the doctor. I dropped it off at a family members auto shop in WV. I was gonna have Nukeblue aka Shawn rebuild it but I was urged by other family members to leave it back home. Sorry Shawn! On the trip back to WV it burned 1 QT per 60 miles traveled and was leaving a nice smokey trail. I don't know what all is going to take place yet other than bored, rebuilt and 4.56 gears They guy doing the work (my aunts brother) builds dragsters in his spare time.... I can't wait to get it back and drive it  | ||
| Fast1075 |
The problem COULD be caused by something as simple as malfunction of the crankcase vent system. It does not work the same way as an old school PCV valve. It is a constant bleed system. Plugged lines will cause the engine to blow oil into the intake. It is a very common problem. Even if it is not the problem, get a new kit for the rebuilt engine. | ||
| Thumper74 |
I don't know about a crankcase vent issue. 1 quart every 60 miles is obscene! I would venture to guess cracked ring/s, my old Cherokee at 200k barely use any oil at all... If it's determined that you need a new engine, rebuilds aren't all that cost effective. With my work, I can score dirt cheap low mileage motors or slightly more for a reman with a good warranty. I'll PM my cellphone. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Well the block doesn't need bored... WOOO HOOO!! But the clutch is damn near toast... almost to the rivets I was told. Hone, pistons, rings, clutch..... cha ching what else awaits???? | ||
| Gofast |
Posting to follow the adventure. Transitioned from offroad back to bikes a few years ago.   | ||
| Thumper74 |
Cam and new lifters, good valve job, plus roller rockers? Balance crank? Throttle body spacer? | ||
| Damnut |
So I was going through my shed and saw those damn CJ soft doors again. I've posted em locally a bunch of times and no bites. Verne you want these ••••••• things? How's shipping only sound? I'd like to get em out of my shed before they get ruined. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Hey Rob, What size wheels and tires did you have on that Rubi? | ||
| Etennuly |
Jim, can you send me a pm with pictures? Are they black? I might can do that.  My passenger outside handle is broken off(hung into a hanging tree vine running the outside of my fence line). And my driver side top zip window is loose from the fabric at the bottom. All of my frame work for the doors is fine though. Mark, before you went toasty motor, I was about to suggest something I wish I had done years ago. You have a nice clean solid unmolested Jeep. Sell it for the best cash deal you can get and take that money to buy a used, already done, off road set up Jeep. | ||
| Damnut |
yea they're black and in pretty good shape.  | ||
| Etennuly |
They sure look good to me. Are they Bestop? Do they just slip onto the frames with the inside lip and some stretch? I sent you a PM. Thanks | ||
| Gofast |
Wolfridgerider, Those are 35 X 12.5 on 15 X 10 rims. Had them on my 94 Explorer ( slightly modified, yes tons of sarcasm ) I had a 4 " lift with a 2" body lift on the Rubi. Upgraded frontend bits as I broke them. Draglinks tie rod ends etc. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I wanna stay away from the body lift for some reason... but 33's are on the short list when I get it back | ||
| Ratbuell |
Mark - might as well clean up the head while it's off. The 4.0 is tough. I bought my 230k mile Cherokee with five pistons in the engine. Drove it on the trailer, drove it into the garage. Put one used piston in it with new rings and a ball-honed bore. Replaced rod and main bearings and added a high-flow oil pump while I was in there, and had the head redone (seats/seals/check/deck) while it was off. Doesn't leak, doesn't smoke, I've put about 5k miles on it this summer with no issues, and it has 45psi oil pressure at a hot idle. Don't over-think the rebuild. If you want BIG power...do a conversion. 5.7 Hemi kits are plentiful now. If you want bulletproof - build a stock 4.0. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I'm a bad influence... my buddy Doug just had to join in!!  Every corn has a dent No tranny But the price was right.... 750 bucks Let the building begin! | ||
| Fast1075 |
Mark, what is the gear ratio in your axles? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
it has 3.73's in it now It'll have 4.56's in it pretty soon | ||
| Fast1075 |
Might as well go to 4.88 if you are going to 33's. If you do the math you will find that 4.88 with 33's is the same effective ratio as stock tires with 3.73. You won't even have to change the speedometer gear. It will be accurate. | ||
| Etennuly |
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| Wolfridgerider |
I've pulled the trigger on the 456's All the stuff I have read on Jeep Forum kinda leans toward the 456's Some people are running the 3.73's with 33's and say its fine Some people say its a dog with that set up. I didn't like the way it was starting out with the 3.73's and 31's so I think the 456 should be a good fit. The speedo was off about 7 mph when I got it. When I put the 31's on it was about right according to the GPS. I'm gonna wait and see what the gps says when I get the 456/33 set up and go from there. The chart says I should need a #39 speedo gear.... | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
hey Vern... kiss my  what ya gonna do?! | ||
| Etennuly |
I had 3.73 gears with my 33's. I have had no problems taking off with my SBC 400, even near vertical pulling a Dodge Power Wagon with an automatic transmission full of muddy water! Torque is my friend!  Now that I have 38's I think 4.56 gears would be a good idea. 4.88 or 5.10 if I can find them for my heavy duty half ton GM rears cheaply enough. Speedometer? What speedometer? I don't gots no speedometer.....jus oil pressure and temperature gages.....thank you! Mark.....  ..... | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
motor update. Oil rings worn down to the expanders I had to look that one up. | ||
| Etennuly |
How many miles are on that thing? I thought by it's condition that it was relatively new with low miles. The high energy ignition systems are amazing with these kind of problems. They fire so hot the oil burns clean out of them. Prior to DDFII HEI your plugs would have had a build up of white crust that would have encapsulated the electrode if it was burning that much oil. But what do I know.....I am so out of touch sometimes(besides, after the CJ they all kind of look the same ). | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
its right at 168,000 at first glance it looks/ed great. But I think the trips to the off road park brought all the little demons to the surface. I'll get all the kinks worked out and then it will be time to start over.... |
