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Buell Forum » Quick Board » Archives » Archive through October 07, 2011 » Anyone ever have a fuel pump go bad in a cage? « Previous Next »

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Kilroy
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2001 F150 to be exact, but that shouldn't matter.

If so what were the symptoms?

Thanks is adv

Kilroy
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Damnut
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Symptoms are........ won't start....... ever

Thanks that'll be 5 bucks please.
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Damnut
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Had one go bad in my car and I'm replacing it now. Didn't know if it was spark or gas the engine wasn't getting. When you turn the key on you should hear the fuel pump kicking on.
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No_rice
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

how about what are the symptoms of your truck might be easier...

as Jim said, usually wont start. if your lucky you can get under it and smack the tank with something and unlodge the fuel pump. although that doesnt last to long most the time.

can you hear the fuel pump prime when you kick the key on?
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Fast1075
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hope it's not a dual tank model...they have at least two fuel pumps....some models have three....plus the changeover valve.

If it is a regular model, the pumps in that year range have a brush type motor that wears out the brushes...it may or may not be easy to get to depending on the size of the tank and bed configuration.
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Orman1649
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In my experience it just dies. I went to the store in my 96 C1500. Came out and the truck was dead. It didn't stutter or anything on the way there but just wouldn't start when I came out.
As people have said, you should hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn on the ignition. If you don't hear that, chances are pretty high the pump is dead.
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Kilroy
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ive got 300k miles. Lately, and these are all "occasional" events - truck will crank and not start. Try it again and it will start just fine. If you stop and wait 5 minutes and try to start it again, it will light off but stumble violently like only a couple of cylinders are getting fuel. Most times it will start normally, or hesitate only an extra second or two before lighting off. I have plenty of spark. I have heard some folks say either fuel pump is bad or good, there is no in between. I have heard others say they go through a process of failure that exhibit some of these symptoms. Truck runs fine at speed, highway, up hills etc which leads me to believe it might NOT be the pump. Maybe a leaky fuel injector allowing fuel pressure to bleed down between cranks.

Thanks

Kilroy
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Ridenusa4l
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

or the fuel pressure regulator, happened on my buddies 94' Cobra

Jake
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Orman1649
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If its intermittent like that I would suspect either the fuel filter is getting plugged with crud or possibly you have a little water in your fuel.
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Stalker
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe fuel pressure regulator. When the diaphram wears out it will lose pressure when not running, making it harder to start. Check pressure when running and after sitting for a few minutes.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 02:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There should be a schraeder valve (like a tire valve) on the fuel rail. Should get a spurt of fuel if you press the needle with the key on. If not...no pressure. Likely pump @ that point.
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Sarodude
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fuel Pressure Regulator is one of the ultimate things that most techs seem to ignore - and it's really annoying when they start going bad because of the intermittent nature of the issue.

I've never seen a high pressure fuel pump on a fuel injected gasoline motor show signs of getting old. They've either worked - or completely and immediately died. Surely someone has an alternative experience.

If you KNOW that your problem is fuel and you've ruled out the fuel pump relay, go with the regulator.

-Saro
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Kilroy
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 02:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes I have already replaced the fuel pump relay. Same intermittent issues. Sounds like the regulator or a leaky fuel inj
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Ulywife
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 03:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My Chevrolet Suburban had intermittent symptoms. Problems starting, stumbling going down the road, no horsepower. Carlos had driven it to the beach, came home, parked it, it would turn over, but not start(almost like it was flooded). Finally the next day it started, but stumbled as I got around the block. Home it went and the shop towed it in.

The shop replaced the fuel filter, the catalytic converter (and probably some other things I can't remember) thinking these were the culprits. Each time (3 visits) they had it "fixed", it would run fine, then start to stumble again and I'd barely get it back to the shop. I finally got the mechanic to listen to me..."it's not getting fuel. Let's go back to the basics". Finally they replaced the fuel pump and it's been great ever since. They told me that usually when the fuel pump goes, vehicle doesn't run, end of discussion. My truck however had to be the exception.

(Message edited by Ulywife on October 03, 2011)
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Thumper74
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would venture that it's not the pump if it runs well under load (hills).

You can check the fuel pressure to be safe though. Rent a guage with a long enough hose, stick her on the windshield and drive. See if it fluctuates, etc. Let it sit turned off with the guage on and see if it bleeds down.

Take the vacuum line off the regulator and see if it smells like gas. If it does, the diaphragm is torn. Replace it.

No check engine light? Keep in mind that even if it's not on, there might be a stored code that can shed some light on the problem.
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Boogiman1981
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

similar qualities on my jeep. several fuel filters later i reseated the plug on the pump and have never had an issue since. not likely but worth a shot.
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Nukeblue
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

some times you'll be lucky & it will give you low pressure symptoms like needing to cycle the key a few times to build pressure back up. before it will start
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12x9sl
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chevy half-tons and suburbans are bad for fuel pumps. My dad and brother have replaced a handful of them within the company and family vehicle pool. They can have one changed in a half hour on a pick-up (bed comes off in 5 minutes with an impact and a forklift). Sometimes if you take a hammer (or similar heavy object) and bang on the bottom of the fuel tank it will be enough to get you home. Dad and Mom were way down south (Alabama I think) when the suburban started acting up. Dad banged on the tank and they made it back to WI. Not sure if you will have the same luck with a Ford.
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 11:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry for the red but I wanted to get your attention. Id bet money that you need a FPDM (fuel pump driver module)Its above the spare tire and gets corroded on the back side often.
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

here is an extreme case




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Thumper74
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 12:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are these the on demand fuel systems then? No fpr, just varying output from the pump?pull
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Kilroy
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 02:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

RPM and Thumper -

I don't think I have an FPDM. I've got a system with a fuel return line and pressure regulator. The FPDM / demand system came about later - 2004 I believe.

I have a pressure reg that I am picking up this afternoon and will try swapping that out.
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Ceejay
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The emergency shut off switch located on the pass side door jamb/footwell. Last about 10 yrs. Then just quit. Pull the plastic, and it will be sitting right there, probably take about 20 min to put a new one in. Not sure how to test them but I've seen three go bad just this past summer.
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your right, fpdm is 2004 up. Im guessing fuel pump. I checked Identifix and there is quite a few hits (52) for cranks intermitent no start where a fuel pump fixed it
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Azxb9r
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you want to properly diagnose your fuel system, you need to be able to measure fuel pump pressure and volume. If either of these is out of spec you can have no start/hard start/poor driveability symptoms. Sometimes when a fuel pump fails the car will be dead, but not always. I see plenty of times where you will have an intermittent no start or lack of power. This is usually related to heat, but not always. Fuel pressure regulators usually fail in 1 of 3 ways. 1-The diaphragm ruptures and leaks. If this happens the car will run rich as hell and be hard to start. To check for this just pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and see if there is fuel in it, if so the regulator is bad.
2-Fuel pressure too high. If this happens the car will usually start okay, but it will run rich. The only way to check this is by checking fuel pressure with a gauge. Poking the schraeder valve with a screwdriver will not tell you how much pressure you have, it will only tell you if there is any fuel present. Your fuel pressure should be 35-45PSI with the pump running and the engine off, and 28-45 PSI with the engine running.
3-The regulator will bleed down with the engine off, causing a long crank on cold start-up. Usually this will not cause any driveability symptoms, and will start okay if the engine was recently run.
It is very rare to have low fuel pressure due to a faulty regulator. That is normally a bad pump or wiring problem.

Do yourself a favor and buy, rent, or borrow a fuel pressure gauge before you start loading the parts gun.
One other thing, if you have a 4.2L or 4.6L engine, you have a fuel pump relay, an inertia switch, and the fuel pump. If you have a 5.4L with a bi-fuel or CNG package, you have a few more electrical components in the circuit.
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