| Author | Message | ||
     Ridenusa4l |
alright guys im having a bit of a debate with my buddy, he has a 2006 hyundai tiburon v6 gt.... long story short, he wants a little more power and sound, so i said a cold air intake and an exhaust, but he doesnt want to decrease reliability so i said fine it wouldnt. alright so now we're in a debate that he has it in his head (from his brother) that a cold air intake WILL decrease reliability, however i am still admit that it wont. so im asking you guys since i know yall have some collective experience and knowledge, so my question is: Will a cold air intake DECREASE reliability? THANK YOU! Jake | ||
| Froggy |
A proper cold air intake, not the crap ones on ebay that are a cone filter and a tube, but the good ones that have a sealed airbox will do the trick without ruining anything or hurting reliability. Assuming you never over oil a K&N filter, you would never have any issues with the setup. Too much oil on a K&N can cause it to leak onto the various intake sensors, which will cause headaches. With the exhaust, go with a cat back, that way it doesn't touch the catilytic converter and piss off the emissions systems. Also get the car re-tuned, it is the best bang for the buck mod you can do, and since your changing components it would be stupid not to give it the right amount of gas where it wants it. | ||
| Augustus74 |
Maybe try a Hyundai board??? They can be more application specific then we here. A cold cai shouldn't make a difference in reliability but I did have a Subaru that would blow the MAF sensor with one. | ||
| Geforce |
A CAI will NOT cause reliability issues. UNLESS, you make one yourself and use duct tape to secure it to the front bumper and it falls off and you run over it... or it get tangled in the fans. It sounds like your friend really has no idea about modifying a vehicle. All you can do is suggest to him and let him do his own thing. Froggy is right about over oiling a K&N. If you happen to be mechanically inclined enough to remove the MAF and clean it then there's no worry. I normally clean my MAF when I clean my K&Ns on all my vehicles. | ||
| Fast1075 |
None of that will decrease reliability...but the potential hooliganism that goes along with a modded car just might reduce reliability.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Remind him that an engine is nothing but an air pump. Move more air in, move more air out, make more power. Shouldn't need a calibration for a CAI and a catback - closed loop EFI can handle that minor change with no problem. Turbo? Yeah, recalibrate. Port the head? Yep. Cam change? Needs it. Breathing? Cripes...you get that much variation in an *altitude* change...the car will be fine. | ||
| Xl1200r |
He needs to do some research on a Hyundai board. Typically, an intake won't throw a MAF, but some can and this was part of my decision making process when I bought mine. BTW, also keep in mind that some vehicles respond better to what Froggy described - a short inlet with a filter on the end, called a Short Ram Intake, or SRI. My 2010 Mazdaspeed3 responds better to this style of intake than it does to a true cold-air setup. Obviously you get what you pay for, so keep that in mind with any eBay offerings. Any exhaust that keeps the factory manifolds, downtubes, cats, etc, is going to make negligible gains. Messing with the cats needs to be done with caution - doing so may pass your states inspection (typically visual, but some places use sniffers), but even if it passes, modifying the emissions system on your car is still a FEDERAL offense, so be sure having something noisy in your neck of the woods won't be an issue. Removing the cats will make the car night and day louder. If you do just an intake or just an exhaust, skip the tune. If you do both, get a tune. And like Froggy said, a tune even with no other parts is going to give a gain (and this is the mentally used when many parts manufactures claim performance gains - most of it is from the tune. Reliability? If you add parts and don't tune, you *could* run lean, but likely not enough to cause damage. If you do tune, it will likely push fuel and timing limits closer to the *edge*, but shouldn't be unsafe. This isn't new tech anymore and the guys that are doing it really know what they're doing. And anyways, he's got no other options outside of buying a different car (which I'd do, anyways, lol). | ||
| Hootowl |
"It sounds like your friend really has no idea about modifying a vehicle" I agree. He should confine his "performance mods" to those tacky trunk lid wingy thingies and fake "R" badges. | ||
| Swordsman |
Last I looked (2006) Hyundai boards were scarce and scarcely populated. That may have changed. On CAI's in general: what dude's brother is thinking of are CAI's that lean out the mixture. So long as the MAF housing diameter remains the same, there will be NO issues. If the MAF housing diameter is larger than the stock one, a higher volume of air is coming in than what the computer is calibrated for, so it assumes the volume hasn't changed. Thus you're getting more air without the proper increase in fuel, which leans the mixture. Sometimes it'll throw a code, but not always. The lean condition is what makes them unsafe. That's what the tune is for... lets the computer know that a value has changed, at the very least. There's always the possibility of snatching up water (depending on inlet location), so there's the hydro lock danger as well. I run one on my Mustang with virtually no problems. It sits in place of the stock airbox, so no hydro lock to worry about. But mine's pretty big (95mm vs the stock 81mm), so I have to have a tune, and the canned one I bought doesn't like to idle if I'm coasting. If the Hyundai CAI's fit behind the bumper cover, I'd recommend getting a bypass valve in case he hits a nasty puddle. They don't cost that much more, and the peace of mind is worth it, IMHO. EDIT: A note on short ram intakes. Depending on the car in question, some short rams actually decrease the power because they pick up hotter air than the stock intake. Hotter air = expanded air = less oxygen fitting into the intake. Back when I had my Pontiac Vibe, there was some talk of this on a forum, and the tests were not good. Just something to keep in mind. ~SM (Message edited by Swordsman on January 19, 2011) | ||
| Nillaice |
you guys are postin up some seriously consice and thought-out answers.   | ||
| Ourdee |
Tell him to go do a track day. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Someone is trying to mod a tiburon? Oh geez.... | ||
| Xl1200r |
Last I looked (2006) Hyundai boards were scarce and scarcely populated. That may have changed. I'm betting with the Genesis coupe that things are a bit more active. Someone is trying to mod a tiburon? Oh geez.... My thoughts, too. It really is a shame - they're great looking cars, but the V6 is just so anemic. | ||
| Medicbro |
If he's up for a challenge, he can have a cheap cold air intake that will genuinely help performance instead of just sounding cool. All he needs to do is run some sort of tubing from his stock air box to suck clean (cool) air from the front of the engine bay near the headlight or preferably at the base of the windshield as this is a high-pressure area while traveling at speed. This is the same method most cold air intakes use, they just look pretty. If he decides to buy a CAI, he should make sure to get something either plastic or ceramic coated because while the aluminum ones are pretty, they soak up the heat from the engine compartment. Also, as many have said before, there is absolutely no need for a "re-tune" on a modern car, as the car's ECU will automatically make the needed changes to the Air to Fuel ratio based on O-2 sensor readings to get a complete burn of fuel under air charge temp/volume. If he is just looking for cheap power, he could play with his static ignition timing and move farther before top dead center to achieve more low-end torque. This is in the 2-6 degree range with most cars to maintain Reg unleaded, he can go farther and use higher octane fuel, but will quickly reach a point of diminishing returns. He needs to be weary of detonation when playing with timing, but may use this warning sign as a tool during a test drive after any adjustments to timing, as any engine runs at it's full potential just prior to causing detonation. My $.02 as a car nut MB | ||
| Swordsman |
there is absolutely no need for a "re-tune" on a modern car, as the car's ECU will automatically make the needed changes to the Air to Fuel ratio based on O-2 sensor readings to get a complete burn of fuel under air charge temp/volume. That's IF the MAF housing remains the same diameter. The sensor says "I see X amount of oxygen." Then the computer says, "Okay, I know that the air volume is Y, so there is Z amount of total oxygen actually entering the engine, and I'll adjust the fuel accordingly." If you change that Y value and don't let the computer know, you WILL run lean. Just to be clear.  ~SM | ||
| F22raptor |
You guys got to learn the difference between a "Speed-Density",and a "Mass-Air"type of fuel injection.When you can see how the systems work,You will better understand how modifications will work..or not work.With a turbo you will always be limited by the max flow rate of the injectors.With a naturally-aspirated engine,intake velocity is the issue,as air acts as a fluid at near super sonic velocities. So just opening up the intake may decrease power if no other modifications are made. | ||
| Aesquire |
Some things are simple truths. Burn a candle brighter, it burns up faster. Try and get maximum possible power.... It will burn brightly and briefly. That in mind, small performance increases are to be had without wrecking the engine. ( or shortening it's life noticeably.) More pep? enough to notice & enjoy? Not a problem. Follow the above advice. There is always a bottleneck to more power. Figure out where it is, and make a rational decision based on cost/benefit. My experience is that efficiency improvements give better power when asked for and better mileage when in cruise control part throttle situations. a Cold air intake exhaust etc. are such mods. Both will probably increase noise. ( how legal that is depends on your jurisdiction.... I'm sure you will check all applicable local, state etc. laws. ( and ignore them like everyone else )) On the older v-8's things like aftermarket intake manifolds could let you move the torque peak and happy spot where you wanted it. A common mistake is to put parts on that need high revs and large throttle openings to gain power at the expense of daily driveability. | ||
| U4euh |
Working at AutoZone for 17 years, I say the "tune" will be the most important part of the whole set up. Most of the "wanna be's" that came into the store never even thought about tuning the motor. They would race around making noise with the loud set up, red lining it most of the time, slowly destroying the valve train and sensors. Within a year they would be in trying to figure out why they needed to replace sensor and gaskets. |
