| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
I have two sets of new mounting hardware, for XB/1125 front rotors. One set, new OEM (bolts, washers, spacers, coil springs). One set, new Erik Buell Racing (new bolts, spacers, washers - coil springs are discarded per instructions). I have one new rotor I need to mount. I have two bikes that take this rotor/hardware combo - my 2009 1125CR that I've owned for a little over a year and has 2091 miles on it; and my 2006 Ulysses that I have owned for two and a half years and have put nearly 20k miles on. Guess which gets more use? The CR has more "go" so I definitely use more "whoa", and it has the 8 piston caliper. The Uly is heavier, and I ride it a LOT more. Its the closest thing to a "daily driver" that I own. Which hardware would you put on which bike? Balance "performance" with "durability", and I'm leaning towards Erik Buell Racing hardware on the Ulysses, and OEM on the CR... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Honestly, I don't think it matters. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Probably true...but... 1. I like to overthink things 2. the longer I overthink this one, sitting in a warm living room with a hot cider / cap'n morgan in a mug...the less time I spend in the 12 degree garage sticking to metal hand tools because my hands were slightly damp when I picked them up...  | ||
| Delta_one |
if the E.B.R. one floats better and gums up less I say put that on the bike you ride the most/builds up the most brake dust. my.02 | ||
| 86129squids |
"Probably true...but... 1. I like to overthink things 2. the longer I overthink this one, sitting in a warm living room with a hot cider / cap'n morgan in a mug...the less time I spend in the 12 degree garage sticking to metal hand tools because my hands were slightly damp when I picked them up..." LOL!!! Joe, how many miles have you put on the Uly with the stock setup? Are the hardware pieces from the wheel up old or new spec? Are the master cylinders/lines/capacities compatible? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Brake dust? Oh yeah, I forgot to mention...in that 20k miles? The Uly hasn't been washed. Ever. Ask Vern - he's seen it! But I think that's a great point. The CR I keep clean (my own fault for getting a black bike...). The Uly...gets "washed" when I ride in the rain.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
And Brad - just replacing the bolts and spacers that hold the rotor on the wheel. Das it. Nothing else is being changed, on either bike. I don't even have to change anything on the Uly...but before I torque one set of hardware (single use), I don't want to "use one up". I'll probably stick the Erik Buell Racing hardware on the Uly, and the OEM on the CR. If I like how the Uly is behaving, I can always change hardware on the CR later.... | ||
| Greg_e |
Let's see... It's 12 degrees out, right? So what is the rush to get the work done? It can certainly wait until closer to the next ride. Next time I will probably be able to go out is about March, need to drop some seafoam in the tank and call it done for the winter and pick up oil if I see it on sale. Not to mention order the front engine isolator since mine is buggered and probably grab a rear isolator while I am at it (thoughts being that if one is going, the other can't be far behind it). | ||
| Ratbuell |
"next ride"? I rode today for over an hour.... | ||
| Ourdee |
Good on ya Rat. I'd put the Erik Buell Racing stuff on the Uly. I would wait for warmer temps before installing it and torquing to specs. I'm funny that way about working on aluminum stuff. Or just keep it on the wall till something actually breaks and you need it. When I get real bored in the winter I go to Walmart, fill up a cart shopping for me and friends, then leave it in some remote isle and go home. All the fun of shopping without the expense. | ||
| Nillaice |
why would you just replace the OEM hardware with teh same fastners? i could see putting the EBarrrgh stuff on, but i don't see why yer 'fixing' the brakes if they aren't broken but then again, you just sed your riding in 12 degree weather, so your sense of judgment may be what some consider to be a little 'off' | ||
| Ratbuell |
I have one rotor to replace (currently the CR is rotor-less). I have two sets of hardware. Just don't want to put the hardware on the "wrong" bike is all. RD - good point on the temps. Might just take the CR to Florida to visit the folks for xmas, and then to Nola to visit a friend. I'll pack the torque wrench and the T40 to be safe  Matt - what is this "sense of judgment" you speak of?? I'm not familiar with such an item... | ||
| Nillaice |
well, then mayhaps you should get some other parts for the bikes, whilest they are down for maintenance from http://www.kalecoauto.com/ but personally, i'd throw the EBaaRRRRRgh stuff on the CR and take it to teh track | ||
| 86129squids |
Oh heck- Duhhh... Somehow I thought you were talking about ZTL2 calipers, etc. possibly going to the Uly... And... How different could the single use hardware be between the OEM and Erik Buell Racing parts? (Now I'M overthinking stuff. Outsmarted myself again...) | ||
| Ratbuell |
OEM setup consists of: Coil springs (they go in a hole next to the screw, to help the rotor "float") Flat washers that go on the wheel Metal spacers that fit in the mount slots in the rotor The screws. That's it. Simple, and effective. The Erik Buell Racing kit...has many many more pieces (fortunately they include a picture!). First, it eliminates the coil springs. The rotor still "floats"...but not nearly as much. Starting at the wheel: there is a top hat spacer that sleeves the bolt. There is a copper washer that the rotor sits on There is a drive insert similar to the OEM rotor spacer block There is a steel washer that sits on top of the rotor There is a spring washer that goes between the steel washer and the bolt head And there is the bolt. The Erik Buell Racing theory (and I have a tendency to trust them) is that a more direct-mounted rotor will more easily dissipate heat into the wheel (large aluminum heat sink) through a firmer contact area, and the rotor will stay better aligned to the wheel, caliper, and pads for more even wear. As far as I know, still single-use...but the theory is definitely sound (to my simple mind, anyway). I'll give it a shot. | ||
| 86129squids |
Aha! Cool to know about the differences, and the forward-think shown by EEee Be Arrgh... If the net gain of the new parts installation is heat dissipation to the rotor, pick which bike will most likely need it. If you're putting the most miles on the Uly, sometimes with Kim, won't that be the best bike for the parts? (steam emissions from the ears...) | ||
| Greg_e |
Too much salt on the roads here, rots the bike and I won't do it again. Once the salt goes down on the roads it is time to put the bike away for the Winter and wait for the spring rains to wash the junk away. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Actually, salt doesn't "rot" metal until it is above freezing again. I own a '72 Mopar...I know rust Aluminum and powdercoat are super-durable. I've had my Uly out in all sorts, for years, with no issues. Even my poor ol' S2, when it was a daily-rider, got more than its dose of salt and winter gak. No problems there either, even on the tube frame and swingarm. Although, I *do* wash that one | ||
| Ourdee |
Hey, Let them put the bikes away for winter. I'm gonna corrode mine into nothing, then pick up one of those well kept machines to do it all over. My supply will be northern bikes with low mileage. Their widows will sell the bikes to me cheap with a story of how he got fat and died without any outdoor winter activities. I've been off mine for over a week waiting for the ice to clear up. Aghrr, I'm gettin' fat. | ||
| Ourdee |
Rat, did you get the thicker rotor from Erik? That is what I want to put on the front of my Uly. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Na, just a stocker. Got a good deal on it so I figured why not. Now I just need to find a pair of heated gloves that work when the CR's AT display shows 27 degrees.  But I did learn that a third gear whack at "left lane creeper" speed (about 64), on salt coated MD roads, when moving around the creeper who refuses to yield the passing lane...WILL break the ass end loose. Yeeeee-HAH! | ||
| Nillaice |
 got snowmobile gloves? hippo hands (or knock-offs)? heated grips? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Damn, how'd you get a picture of my IP??? Gerbings heated gloves. Buell heated grips. Crappy circulation in my hands, from having them caught in a car door as a kid. Vessels contract to a certain point, and just close off. Fun at parties in college though. Insert hand into beer cooler. Hold for two minutes. Remove hand. Whack yellow bloodless finger(s) with beer bottle, $5 a whack. Paid for most of our beer And drunks can't aim well enough or swing hard enough to break bones... I think I'm going to look into either snowmobile gloves, or retrofit some Ulysses handguards to the CR. Or maybe hit up the local Gerbings guy and give him a challenge | ||
| Xb12mel |
Hey Matt, Was that AM or PM? | ||
| Nillaice |
it was PM, but i had just broken the weaved pattern of the time/space continuim, and the IC couldn't keep up. ... lol it's military time, bro. so that'd make it almost 1 in the mornin' |
