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Doz
| Posted on Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 04:50 pm: |
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Tried to post this in the KV, but no reply...So, has anyone made their own heated gear? I've done some reading about it, pretty simple task and fun experiment to try. Anyone have any tips? |
Barker
| Posted on Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 05:06 pm: |
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I bought a heated vest from ebay for 6 bucks shipped. It works great for like an hour. Thats when the AA batteries die, and you have to replace them. |
Doz
| Posted on Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 05:26 pm: |
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I talking about plugging into the bike, running 30awg stranded teflon wire through a garment with assorted other bits to make it a worthy/workable option. I got most the info from a site called moto tour. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 05:34 pm: |
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I thought about doing it but never got around to it. I'd be pretty cool to take an existing jacket liner and add the wiring. One less piece of gear to wear. If you build one, let us know how it turns out. |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 05:59 pm: |
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I just made two pieces of home-made heated gear. I was going to do a write-up and post it, but haven't yet. I do believe I have the only heated Buell jacket, as well as the only heated Teiz Lombard 1 pc. suit! They work FANTASTIC! Here's my list: A spool of 30 gauge teflon coated high temperature stranded wire (I opted for black). A spool of 100 ft does 3 items: http://www.bulkwire.com/wire-cable/ptfe-high-tempe rature-stranded-wire.html A power cord (2.5mm dc type with a 90 degree angled plug) http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partn umber=090-492 A power plug (2.5mm dc type flush mount) http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partn umber=090-479 Use a large needle, mine's about 4 inches long. Thread the 30 gauge wire in between the two layers of a quilted jacket/suit liner. You want 33 feet of wire per piece. This will give you about 50 watts of heating. thread from the outside of the liner so what little bit sticks out (the ends of the wire and the occasional loop that's outside the layers) is between the jacket liner and shell, and therefor not visible. Solder and heat shrink the power cord wires to the ends of the 30 ga. wires. tie a loop in the power cord and sew it to the outside of the liner, this is so tugging on the power cord (like forgetting to unplug it) pulls on the liner, rather than the super thin heat wires. It cost me $10 and 2 hours of my time to make my riding jacket heated! Can't beat that! |
Cityxslicker
| Posted on Friday, December 03, 2010 - 11:57 pm: |
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did you cut up the electric blanket from the quest room in a drunken red neck tech session ? |
Whisperstealth
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 12:14 am: |
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I totally thought about using an electric blanket. Who cares if it's a little red neck if it works, not like it would show all that much. How to regulate the voltage was the problem. Now they make 12 volt electric blankets for the car. You could easily sew one of those inside a jacket. Mike, are you still going to do a full write up/ pics? After hearing what you did, I was thinking of giving it a shot. |
Gunut75
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 08:05 am: |
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Sounds simple enough. I have a few garments that I could put the heat to. I think I may put that on the list too. Can a potentiometer be put in line for temp control? |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 08:32 am: |
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Here's an article on how to do it: http://www.shadowriders.org/faq/electricvests.html |
Doz
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 09:32 am: |
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I saw that info too, also read a page on www.mototour.us They were right about having to order the wire, I can't find it on anyones shelf in the local stores. The blanket idea would be a simple way of do it but I don't want more bulk. As for a thermostat, I think just a simple rocker switch would do the trick- just flip it on/off as needed. |
Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 09:42 am: |
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I think I'd want to put some sort of overload failsafe system in there if it was me. |
Slaughter
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 11:17 am: |
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FUSE - must use fuse. Fires in clothing or electrical system are never good. |
Doz
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 12:53 pm: |
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would make an awesome video though |
Iman501
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 06:26 pm: |
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how much amps can our 12v systems handle besides what its already using? Im just curious how much extra amps you could run on our bikes before it becomes to much? From Hughlysses article he linked it said "Two physics equations help us here: Voltage = Ohms (resistance) x current (amps) Watts = voltage x current (amps) We know the voltage .... most motorcycles have 12 volt batteries. The 30 gauge wire is 1 ohm per foot of wire. So. 30 feet of wire equals 3 ohms. So, based on the first equation, we now know that 30 feet of our wire draws 4 amps of current." So i'm assuming we can handle 4 amps, but how much is to much for our alternators and evrything? |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 06:34 pm: |
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You've basically got 2 scenarios, 'Idle' and 'Above'. According to others' calculations, we have roughly 140 excess watts in the 'Above Idle' state, very roughly figure half that at 'Idle'. I've run this list in addition to the standard engine running stuff: 55watt HID low beam LED signals LED marker Lights Aux. LED tail lights Heated grips on High Heated suit (4 amps) And I still stayed in the green on my voltage gauge at idle. With the addition of a 55 watt high beam, my voltage light went amber at idle, but was still perfectly fine while above idle. My general habit is to only use one large accessory at a time; fog lights or heated gear. (Message edited by Mikef5000 on December 04, 2010) |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 06:40 pm: |
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Oh, and yes, I'll still do a write-up on my home-made heated gear. I have one more jacket to wire (the girlfriends) and I'll document it. And I run everything electrical through a fuse. |
Gunut75
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 11:03 am: |
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Sweet. |
Brumbear
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 12:15 pm: |
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Doz
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 02:05 pm: |
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Hey Bear, how about a tazer vid... seriously though, the only other thing to consider is what kind of apparell to use? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 08:20 pm: |
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If you are serious about it, I have a way to solve the heat problem with an already designed (but being redesigned to rev 4 now ) digital controller thermostat. It probably represents a better approach. You can use shorter and thicker (read: more durable) wire and use it to whatever length makes sens for the application, then use the controller to precisely control the current. I have another nice easter egg in there as well that I don't know if I want to go into detail about until I decide what to do with the design. I am very tempted to open source it... and if there is serious effort (and progress) here on making home brew heated gear, that might be what makes me decide to open up the design... just because I think it would be cool. |
Iman501
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 08:33 pm: |
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i'm game to hear what you've got goin on up in that head of yours reepicheep!!! this thread has got me thinkin about makin some hommade gear befrore next fall! |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 09:42 pm: |
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I'm all ears for a controller, but keep in mind, the sole advantage of home-made heated gear is the cost. At roughly $10 per heated piece (for the wire and plug) it's a no brainer. As soon as you make it more costly (by adding a digital controller) you lose that sole advantage. By running my 30 ga. wire at 33 feet, the heat produced is a comfortable warmth. Absolutely no need for a controller, for me at least. It's either cold enough to want some added warming, or its not, and I unplug it. And ya'll can worry (about fire) all you want. But take apart a $150 heated jacket, your going to find the same wire. Use the right wire in the right length, and run it through a fuse, and you've nothing to worry about. (Message edited by Mikef5000 on December 05, 2010) |
Boogiman1981
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 10:03 pm: |
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what about gloves? that's where i need heat |
Prior
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 10:03 pm: |
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Reep, V1, 2 or whatever works well for its purpose, I'll sign up again for V4... |
Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 10:18 am: |
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Trouble round here is the humidity, if it's cold enough for me to need heated gear the roads are too dangerous to ride. |
Swordsman
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 10:46 am: |
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I'm with Boogi... the only problem I have is keeping my hands from going numb! ~SM |
Iman501
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 12:17 pm: |
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it could probably be done with gloves, just gota be good with a needle and thread haha |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 12:18 pm: |
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I wonder how short a run you could get away with before the localized heat of the wire is uncomfortable. More wire distributes the heat better... |
Glitch
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 01:01 pm: |
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I wonder how the new lightweight heated gear works, it uses carbon fiber instead of wires, and runs off batteries. |
Iman501
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 01:03 pm: |
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ehh batteries are expensive....and so is carbon fiber haha....i'll give the DIY vest a try before dropping bigger money on a name brand item |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 05:20 pm: |
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A couple people have done it with gloves on Advrider. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1121 0053&postcount=52 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1173 3585&postcount=66 |
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