| Author | Message | ||
     Acgwolfe |
got a chance to aquire an 05 ktm exc 450 with the factory 540 big bore kit for a dual sport, i hear that it needs the oil changed every 500 miles, what is the deal with that, is it because of hard use? How many miles can i expect before a rebuild or needing the valves adjusted or replaced? Can anyone tell me the ins and outs with this bike any imput would be appreciated. | ||
| Fast1075 |
The best online source of info would be thumpertalk.com...I found it to be a valuable resource when I started building my 'Tard. Maybe an oil cooler would help...it seems those are very high strung engines and it might be the interval is for bike that see only race conditions. | ||
| Acgwolfe |
I checked thumpertalk, there is so much info that it would take a month of Sundays to get the answers. And I can't figure out how to do a search. I checked ktmtalk but I can't join because my email is a yahoo account. Thanks for your help. What is your motard, did you do a wheel kit. This bike will also be a motard, with occasional dual sport duty. | ||
| Cityxslicker |
Ktms are maintenence heavy. Dealer told me street 450 exc need oil changed every 1500 miles; I am not a tech, I am NOT mechanically inclined, that kept me away from the bike. The Yami WR250 is much more user friendly, servic intervals in the 3k range for oil changes and a wider network of dealers/parts... I ended up with a 92 Zuki DR350. | ||
| Reepicheep |
A buddy just got one (I think its that one, if not it's close). Amazing bike, I got to ride it up and down the street. But be aware you are dating a supermodel, and there is a cost to that. So lets compare the three bikes that were riding the last off road trip I took... KDX-200 with a nickisil 225 big bore kit. Maybe 30 RWHP, 220 pounds. Rebuild about once every 5 to 10 years for light riding (after you have done the initial rebuild and gotten that cast stock piston out and put in a forged weisco). Two stroke though, so worse fuel range and you have to mix oil and jetting can be fussy. $1500 or so. CRF-450X. Maybe 40 RWHP, 260 pounds. Needs valve adjustment every 10 hours of use, which is OK because it also needs a new piston every 10 hours of use for race use, or once every season for recreational use. (No joke, thats straight out of the Honda manual, if you don't believe me just do a google search for CRF-450x top end failure). $2500 to $3500 or so. But it has electric start, which is nice, and being a four stroke gets good range. KTM 450. Mayb3e 45 RWHP, 250 lbs (without electric start, add $700 and 25 lbs for electric start). Light and wicked fast, odd suspension that can be hard to dial in. $3500 or so. Seem to go further between rebuilds (some claim stock piston has gone 10k miles). But a simple oil change requires something like 5 different filter changes, rotating the bike, and some other heroics (havent done it yet, I'll see how bad it really is, but the previous owner confirmed it was pretty bad). So at the end of our last ride? The KDX was rolled out of the truck, run hard, and rolled back into the truck. Easy Peasy. The CRF 450 also rolled out, was run hard, and rolled back in... no problems. Of course that was 4 hours of running, so the other way to look at it was that it was half way to a new piston, though really it was probably closer to 10% of a new piston. Still.... The KTM was rolled out, ran hard, started spraying fork oil out of the right seal, dissapeared into a big ball of steam working it's way out of a valley as it overheated, and finally started spraying fork oil out of its left seal. New fork seals and an overflow tank on the way (which may or may not solve the overheating problem, but it should help). On the other hand, the piston isn't 20% to 40% used up like on the CRF. Probably. So anyway, don't get me wrong, awsome bike. Just know you are marrying a supermodel, and, well, they have needs and are accustomed to a certain standard of living, which you will of course be expected to meet. Me, I'm riding the KDX, and somehow manage to go every where the other two "big bikes" go, usually with less drama. Can't wheelie in 4th gear or win a drag race on it though... but somehow live with that.  Of the three, the KTM would be the best supermotard though. Just set aside a block of money and time for sorting it out. | ||
| Jssport |
Most of my dirt bike buddies change their oil (me included) before 200 mi. For the street it's different, mainly more clutch abuse in the dirt. 05 200exc, we're very happy together 2 strokes rule ! (Message edited by jssport on November 25, 2010) | ||
| Boney95 |
As for KTM maintenance... My Duke has 3 oil filters, one paper, 2 metal. 2 drain plugs. So to say, the oil changes are more involved. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Mine is nothing fancy...I picked up a 2003 DRZ400 Zuk for peanuts....ripped it apart and built a different subframe, put on a set of Bandit 400 wheels (a little easier said than done...lol) with Pilot power 110/70-17 front and 150/60-17 rear...made my own downswept pipe...I originally had clip-ons on it, but took them off in favor of some superbike bars...it's not really a super motard....it is a Huligan...and if I ever get around to figuring out a proper tank for it, it will get an R-6 front end and become a Cafe' bike. It's a boatload of fun...it is of course not "fast" but it will go 88 according to my GPS completely revved out...but 0-60 is pretty dang zippy. This is a Mod-1 pic...I don't have recent ones...  | ||
| Acgwolfe |
Well sounds like the ktm would be great for short distance rides but not long excursions. Did you have to do slot of machining to get the wheels to fit? Thanks for all your help | ||
| Fast1075 |
If you did not have experience fabricating and/or access to a lathe and mill...you would be best off buying a set of bolt-on wheels like Warp 9 or something..part of my personal specification was to have tubeless tires, so mags were a logical choice. Cheap on E-bay...and I enjoyed the challenge....you pretty much need a lathe to make the axle spacers, but that is easy (cheap)...you need a modified RM-250 rear brake arm (modified) that can be "milled" down with a belt sander...and a front brake caliper spacer that can be built or bought...not counting the false starts and dead ends from some poor advice, I have maybe 10 hours total in the swap... | ||
| Acgwolfe |
I dont have the knowledge or resources to do the fab work so i will be going with a kit, Thanks for the info. |
