Author |
Message |
Greg_e
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 12:12 pm: |
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I'm looking for some info that I have not been able to find. I have some solid pin Deutsch contacts that I need to crimp and many different sizes of hex crimp dies to choose from, but the data sheets do not specify the die diameter, they only specify the tool that needs to be used. So can anyone tell me the approximate size of the die that I need to crimp the 18-24 gauge terminals? Here is the data sheet: http://www.fek.by/doc/components/A_E/Deutsch/dtmse ries.pdf |
Firebolt32
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 01:36 pm: |
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I went crazy trying to find out as well. I tried a bunch of different ones I use at work and nothing matched up. I ended up just soldering the connections. Makes a better connection IMO anyways. |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 02:02 pm: |
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I used needle nose... |
Greg_e
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 02:09 pm: |
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Solder is subject to vibration damage in something like this. It looks like a 0.055 inch hex crimp should do the job, of course I don't have one of those but I do have 0.047 and 0.068. |
Sleez
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 09:09 pm: |
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they typically don't advertise the die size, because the factory style crimpers have the die built in, just dial in the right size wire, and go!! http://www.bmotorsports.com/download/products/tool s/crimp/HDT-48-00-crimp-instructions.pdf i used this tool when i made the connectors for my brake strobes. |
Sleez
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 09:11 pm: |
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soldering those pins is a bad idea for any moving vehicle, they will break!! just ask a few of the formula one race car teams!! |
Greg_e
| Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2010 - 09:54 pm: |
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0.047 was a little too small with 18 gauge wire, but it should last, I'll have to find more dies with a 0.050 to 0.055 if I keep using these connectors. |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 03:24 pm: |
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Sleez,did you really pay 260.00 for one of those or where should I look? |
Sleez
| Posted on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 03:53 pm: |
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hey jim, i borrowed it from my old employer, luckily i am still friends with them. there is a cheaper version, but it still costs over $100.00 |
Sleez
| Posted on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 03:59 pm: |
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only 249.00 here, or rent it for 25.00 a week; https://www.wirecare.com/HDT-48-00-Deutsch-Crimp-T ool.asp |
Sleez
| Posted on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 04:02 pm: |
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ebay; http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item =230547069291&item=230547069291 |
Loki
| Posted on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 04:18 pm: |
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I really really like my Daniels(DMC) crimp tools. Been using them for so long, the dies stay in the box. Freehand the alignment unless there are a lot of pins to do. |
Loki
| Posted on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 04:23 pm: |
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no hex crimping those pins. Designed for indent crimping for retention of the wire. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 08:32 pm: |
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Funny, those pins look just like all the stuff that are designed for a hex crimp on stranded and solid wire that I've been crimping for the last 20 years, many of which are still working 20 years later. Thanks for the warning but in this case I'll take a hex crimp for these as I'm pretty sure it will be fine even if I run it up to the full current capacity. |
Firebolt32
| Posted on Friday, November 19, 2010 - 02:08 pm: |
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soldering those pins is a bad idea for any moving vehicle, they will break!! just ask a few of the formula one race car teams!! Not trying to be a dick, but please explain how they would break. I've soldered probably a million connectors and pins in the 10 years I've been a tech. Anything I've soldered involving automotive has never given me a problem. As long as you know what you're doing and don't have cold solder joints you'd be fine IMO. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Friday, November 19, 2010 - 04:44 pm: |
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Instead of flexing the wire strands like the wire is meant to do, it can flex the soldered part where the solder wicks up into the wire. This will cause fractures which eventually get big enough to let go or cause a lot of heat if there is enough current. The heat can build high enough to melt the solder and the connector comes apart or the wire breaks. That was explained in a lot greater detail to me by an aviation mechanic, soldering wires on a plane is not allowed (or so I am told). What he said made sense when I sat down and thought about it so I adopted the same stance. If I was to solder these I would probably use a good silver bearing solder because it is stiffer and will cause the flexing to go down to where the solder did not wick into the wire. |
Sleez
| Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2010 - 12:40 pm: |
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hey Firebolt, i have been an e-tech for over 25 years, and too have soldered millions of pins for connectors. everything from avionics to toilet control panels, and have always felt soldering was the most positive permanent solution. after doing some research on these deutsch connectors, found that some pro race teams had solder pin repairs break, when the crimped connections held fast!! just as Greg_e described. i still solder any other pins and connectors i use, like the standard (auto type) crimp connectors. don't rely on just a pliers type crimper for those!! (Message edited by sleez on November 20, 2010) |
Firebolt32
| Posted on Monday, November 22, 2010 - 07:55 am: |
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Makes sense guys. I'll remember that next time I run across a similar situation. |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Monday, November 22, 2010 - 09:20 am: |
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Maybe a little of topic, but can someone tell me if this is also some kind of connector crimping tool ,or whatever it may be called!?
I once found it in the trash and its collecting dust for almost a decade now! |
Sleez
| Posted on Monday, November 22, 2010 - 09:43 am: |
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that is very similar, there should be some type of model/serial number on it??? |
Greg_e
| Posted on Monday, November 22, 2010 - 09:59 am: |
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Looks damn close, cna I have it? Notice that they have to inspect the operation of that tool to make sure it works properly, I wonder if it failed and that is why it went in the trash. Should be able to adjust it back into spec and keep it working. |
Sekalilgai
| Posted on Monday, November 22, 2010 - 11:24 am: |
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it is for similar solid contacts used on Mil-spec connectors (like 38999). Spin the turret for different contact size and adjust the black selector knob for wire gauge (sets crimp depth). http://www.dmctools.com/store/catalog.asp?PRODUCT_ ID=252057&BACK=%2Fstore%2Fcatalog.asp%3FKEYWORD%3D AF8 |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Monday, November 22, 2010 - 01:18 pm: |
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Thanks for the info! all the parts and handle are moving ,the turret spins free if pulled up. so looks like it should work!? the last inspection date is 97 and the number is M22520/1-02 found out its this one: http://www.dmctools.com/store/catalog.asp?PRODUCT_ ID=252060&BACK=%2Fstore%2Fcatalog%2Easp%3FKEYWORD% 3DTH1A I don,t know if its still usable or not? but if someone thinks they can use it let me know because i don,t think i ever gonna use it! |
Greg_e
| Posted on Monday, November 22, 2010 - 02:18 pm: |
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It may work, and I'd be willing to pay postage to find out. |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 01:00 pm: |
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Greg ,i have send you a pm! |
Loki
| Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 06:38 pm: |
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mil spec indent pin crimper. that is a universal positioner attached to it. the dial on the body is for wire sizing so as to neither over crimp or under crimp the pin. this is one of the mac-daddy crimpers for wire terminations. the only difference between a mil spec and commercial pin is the color banding on it |