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07xb12ss
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well yesterday I decided to head out on the few twisty roads around here (North of Dallas) and give my newly acquired XB some hell, and work on my body position. I was on the XB9S, I also have CR with high bars, and I know a few threads have popped up recently about making sure your body is facing the way you want to turn, so I was focusing on that. One problem: it seems when I am hard in a corner with one cheek off the seat, upper body facing the way I am turning, head over close to mirror, and knee out I can't use my "pushing arm" to control the bars. I know in the Total Control book it says to only use 1 arm to turn (the pushing arm) and the other should just be totally relaxed. Is it just the high bars that is making this difficult for me? It seems the pushing arm is at a weird position/angle and to close to me so my brain wants to use the other arm to pull the bar back. I don't think I had this problem on my 1125R but I cant say for sure.

So my question is, finally, should i try something different with the high bars, or just do the best I can at using the pushing arm?

Jdugger, hopefully soon I will be able to get out there on a member day and have you school me on a few things.
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Iamarchangel
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pushing arm is the way one person wants you to understand the weight shift. If you are doing everything else right, it's hard to notice.

The emphasis really is the weight shift and getting the weight against the top of the tank. MX, and now MotoGP, teach putting the low leg forward for the same reason.

Pulling the bar can create less control in the mind, and on the bike, and also pulls the weight back up. Teaching pushing makes sure you do both.

You sound like you've got it. How's the chicken strip? That's the real proof.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 01:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like the "alligator arms" issue I have with most of the stock bars.

I have really long arms and when I am riding in a "sporting fashion" and hang off, my hands are really close to my chest.

I prefer a lower, flatter, wider handlebar with less pull back.

Made all the difference on the Uly. Making the same change on the M2.

One could just as easily "pull" rather than "push" through a turn. The amount of force is the same.

(We actually had a very lively debate on just this issue several months ago.)

Work on the body position and decide whether a bar change might improve your experience.

My bet is that if you rode the CR, you'd have a different sensation that your S because of the bars.
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Fast1075
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Long after learning to ride, I was told about countersteering....I thought about it some and realized that the technique I had developed was to pull the outside and relax the inside.....maybe it is because my arms are so short....I climb all over the tank to get weight forward...and gain some elbow bend so my arms stay loose...I only weigh 132 so maybe that has something to do with it too.
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07xb12ss
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)









I did just notice that the XB bars have more rise than my CR bars do.
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Johnnylunchbox
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One cheek off the seat really doesn't affect center of gravity much. Weighting the inside peg and lightening both your cheeks and "hanging off" will be much more efficient I think. I generally don't know what I'm talking about though.
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Bikertrash05
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 08:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree with Ft_bstrd and using a "lower, flatter, wider handlebar with less pull back". I love my ProTaper Carmichael bars, and I could really tell a difference.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Exactly what was on the Uly. Made all the difference in the handling.


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Nillaice
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

elbows up and out?
i find myself doing this on the buell and like it since i've started riding some on the dirt.

i really should read some books
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put a set of MSR ATV High bars on my TT
They are wide and tall. I can really crank the front end around with them... I like the extra leverage



MSF Cornering 101.

Right turn: Push right, lean right, go right
Left turn: Push left, lean left, go left

I tell the students to leave the outside arm slack and do the turning with the inside arm
Its also something Lee Parks preaches in Total Control... so if it works for him...

Get ALL the braking, down shifting and let clutch out while the bike is straight up and down. You should NOT brake while turning.... the only thing you should be doing is rolling on the the throttle while in the turn.... how hard you roll on the throttle will be determined by road conditions and the amount-o-sac you have...
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Bikertrash05
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought you brake until the apex, then roll on the throttle?
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 10:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you can do what works for you.... but just give it a try.

When the only thing you have to think about is how much gas to give it... well, it just works well for me....
and I bet it will help you become smoother and smooth is key to becoming faster.
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Tepiddeath
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

WOLF- where did you get that trick translucid red front fender?????
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Nillaice
Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 11:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

he prolly got it at homecoming, i saw a few of those translucent fenders there that i have never seen before.

and the whole 'brake before entering a turn' thing works for me too. if im out of lean, i'll use the rear brake to scrubb off an few mph and fix my line ... i really should read more books
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Jandj_davis
Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I tend to steer with my left arm (push and pull) and control the throttle/brake with my right arm. My weak brain isn't capable of doing both with one arm.
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Babired
Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you guys ever wanted to have a Free 1 hour to 1.5 hour Total Control lecture at the next Homecomming. I can work something out for Bad Web. Last thread I posted on died and we could have kept it going. There are so many other riders on this board who have cornering experience that could help out with these types of questions.
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That would be great! You can always learn something new when it comes to riding.
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Edgarr
Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 05:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I didn't know that there were any twisty roads in N Dallas. What roads are you talking about?
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Gunut75
Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would happily attend the lecture.
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Nillaice
Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 05:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Save the braking into the corner action for the track. On the street, brake before the corner.

10/10 and gravel = crash.
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07xb12ss
Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Edgarr:

455 from Anna to Sanger is an ok ride.

then I extend it up 377N to 922W to Valley View then 373N to Muenster and St Jo to 677S back to 922E and do 455 again.
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