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Midnightrider
| Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 11:16 pm: |
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brakes on the truck went south quicker than i thought - so at 9 pm tonight i needed to either change the pads myself or delay a business trip in the morning. i decided to try it myself. hereis the issue. i'm not sure i compressed the piston far enough before installing the new pads and then installing the caliper on the disk. i got the new pads in the caliper and that assembly on the rotor - but there is a little drag. my question is - is there any kind of pressure regulation that would correct my possible mistake or will it simply rub until it wears down? or glazes? or catches fire? i can turn the rotor by hand but i wouldnt say it spins easily. so far i just did one wheel. the set-up is like nothing i saw in on-line videos. specifically i could not compress the piston while the assembly was on the wheel. my choices are to take it all apart and try to compress it some more, try the other wheel and compare how it easily it spins BEFORE i change the pads, limp it to a corner garage tomorrow or have it towed to my favorite mechanic FWIW its a 2001 dodge ram thanks |
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99buellx1
| Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 11:29 pm: |
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Did you spin the piston back, or just push it? Not sure how the Ram's are, but I thought most vehicles are that way. |
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Midnightrider
| Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 11:58 pm: |
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pushed it anyway - i guess there really are stupid questions ( mine, I mean) took it all apart, recompressed - much better |
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Just_ziptab
| Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 12:05 am: |
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Stomp on the brakes a good hard one and that should take care of any minor assembly misalignment. Did you clean off all the rust from the caliper sliding areas. That can cause a little binding. A disc brake disk will always drag. Put on the wheel and it will spin easier,but will still drag. It's the design intent for it to drag...............slightly. |
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Midnightrider
| Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 01:07 am: |
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road test was good. short but good thanks! |
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Fuzzz
| Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 09:19 am: |
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Did you bleed them while pushing the pistons in? According to ASE standards, that's the acceptable method, to prevent particulates from being forced up into master cylinder. |
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Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 10:34 am: |
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If you were able to get the caliper and pad assembly back on the disk and bolted on, you're fine. Disk brakes are self adjusting by nature, unlike drums. |
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Johnnylunchbox
| Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 11:03 am: |
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You'll probably want to bed the pads in: Brake briskly from 30 to 5 mph. Do this 5 times and never come to a complete stop. Brake briskly from 60 to 5 mph. Do this 5 times and never come to a complete stop. Drive around for a while until they cool. |
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Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 04:15 pm: |
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You'll probably want to bed the pads in: Brake briskly from 30 to 5 mph. Do this 5 times and never come to a complete stop. Brake briskly from 60 to 5 mph. Do this 5 times and never come to a complete stop. Drive around for a while until they cool. Then go home & clear up all the crap that's slid all over the floor. ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/biggrin.gif) |
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Johnnylunchbox
| Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 05:10 pm: |
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Hahahahaha! Good one! So true. You'll find all the french fries you lost under the seat over the years. |
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Midnightrider
| Posted on Friday, October 01, 2010 - 09:15 pm: |
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So far so good. Drove from Maryland to Upstate NY in the monsoon yesterday. I did do a few gradual then "panic" stops the night before but it had been raining so the latter tended to end in a skid. I drive the DC beltway to work every morning and I'm often running behind schedule - everything not fastened down has been either fastened or removed along time ago. I've made a habit of seat-buckling my backpack in the passenger seat. It's hit the dash HARD more than once during hard braking. Like most major metro rush hour traffic spots - if you leave yourself a good cushion in front some bonehead will want to slide in there even though there's a hundred cars ahead of him with no place to go. I feel like I can add replacing front disk brake pads to my " I don't believe how much I used to pay somebody to do this" list thanks again I'm guessing with some pre-planning I can find a place to check the rotors with a minimum cost and short wait time |
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Just_ziptab
| Posted on Friday, October 01, 2010 - 09:39 pm: |
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I feel like I can add replacing front disk brake pads to my " I don't believe how much I used to pay somebody to do this" list Makes you wonder how people on a tight budget keep their vehicles running? 41 years of vehicle ownership and only once went in to a repair shop. I was fully able to do the work but it was -10 degrees,full tank of gas and the fuel pump in the tank... went dead.I had to be at work the next day. Repair shop buddy pulled me in and gave me a loaner...and a break. $750.00 job cost me $550.00. That was two years ago and I'm still reeling from the fact that I had to give in.OUCH! |
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Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Saturday, October 02, 2010 - 06:15 am: |
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Don, get a set of really LOUD truck horns behind the grille for when people try to cut in front. A small air tank on the chassis & a wee 12v compressor to fill it, with a 12v valve wired to the horn relay will do the job. |
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Tepiddeath
| Posted on Saturday, October 02, 2010 - 09:32 am: |
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it also helps to camphor the edges of the brake pads that ride along the edge of the disk, this will not allow the edge of the pad to drag on the outer edge of the disk |
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Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Saturday, October 02, 2010 - 09:44 am: |
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camphor ? That'll make 'em smell like moth balls. I think you mean Chamfer. Sorry couldn't resist. ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/dielaughing.gif) |