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Davegess
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 05:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any opinions on good shingles? We need a new roof, steep pitch. In Wisconsin so it is cold.

Will be going with the dimensional shingles but what brands are good?
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Just_ziptab
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think steel roofs are cheaper right now. I paid 25% more for steel when I got mine. I was the first to have a steel roof in town. Now they are all over the place.
Like it,like it a lot.
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Glitch
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.tamko.com/OurKeyBrands/METALWORKSLandin gPage/tabid/107/ControlType/categoryDisplay/itemid /20/Default.aspx
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Cowboy
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 06:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If there is any way you can swing it go with metal. I have had it for yrs. and love it. (check my profile for a view of mine) went through hurricane Rita and no leaks
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Guell
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Be careful with what you go with if you do a steel roof. A lot of companies will try and sell you a steel roof thats more for buildings like a barn. Ive delt with plenty of standing seam steel roofs. Good roofs, i prefer copper, but most people just cant afford that

If you go with shingles i would honestly just get a 50 year architectural shingle. They last a long time, look good, and a lot sturdier than a 3 tab. I would def not go with a 3 tab, junk imo.

Some of the newer steel "shingles" look pretty good, but i would want to see them on houses before i decided to go with that. A lot of them definitely look fake to me.

I dont know what is most common in Wisconsin but your best bet is probably architectural shingles. If you can spring for it i would have some sort of snow and ice shield put down all over the roof, and definitely in the valleys. felts ok, i just prefer the snow and ice shield all over the roof.
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Aesquire
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 07:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Architectural shingle will outlast you. It does mass more, so be sure the structure is solid.

I have no preference for brand, check Consumer Reports. There is less variation in the high end shingles than the cheap.

An old style steel roof is darn good, with a steep pitch you have to install Ice breakers. You'll have to paint it in a decade or so.

The new thing is stone coated steel, doesn't look like metal, and think they are giving a 50 year guarantee.

http://www.roofshingleshelp.com/
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Cowboy
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

O by thw way I dont know how large a hail stone they can take I have not had any hail larger than a .25 cent peace in 15 yrs. If any one has had experence with hail(large stones please post info.)
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Davegess
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys. The steel is likely not an option here.

Damn thing is expensive.
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Panhead_dan
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you wanna go with a comp roof then the good news is that there are better shingles out there than there used to be. The major brands are still the best bet. This is not a good time to be a tightwad. Some suppliers have sales events and promos that can save you a few bucks. As far as architectural shingles go, as a shingle, they are stronger and will last longer. They suck for ridge cap. They suck for valleys. They suck for radii but I'm betting there are no curves in your roof. They are spendy too but if the price was right I could live with a california valley.
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Guell
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 09:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

we dont do california cut valleys with our architectural shingles. Depending on the valley of course. We just shingle it like a regular valley.

They do sell ridge cap for the architectural shingles too you know.
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Rwven
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

GAF Timberline was one of the first architectural shingles and is the most popular nationwide. GAF has a shingle product line that spans everything from basic three tabs to high end designer architectural shingles. When I did roofing 2 decades ago GAF was very responsive to any warranty claims.

Architectural shingles usually have a dedicated ridgecap product. Or you can use a high end three tab shingle in a matching color. We always did "Canadian Lap" (also called closed-cut or 1/2 lap valleys) valleys where you lap the with the weather side of the valley over onto the other deck and cut the against the weather side down the center of the valley. This lays much better than woven valleys and is actually more weatherproof.

(Message edited by rwven on September 22, 2010)
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Panhead_dan
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"we dont do california cut valleys with our architectural shingles. Depending on the valley of course. We just shingle it like a regular valley."

To me, a regular valley is a woven valley. You cant do that with architectural shingles. Can you?
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Panhead_dan
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually now that I think about it, I think you can. I jus never did one.
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12x9sl
Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Myself, I like woven valleys or exposed W flashing. The w flashing is nice because it will wear better (no washing away of granules) and the w keeps the water from running up the other side.
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Weaving architectural was easy on our 3 in 12 here in Texas. But I prefer metal lined valleys. Foolproof. Especially for steeper pitches. Had a local kid wanting work, so sent him up to clean the gutter screens. He stepped in a valley. Come next big rains, Blake is re-shingling the valley and plastering the living room ceiling.

Name brand architectural, 30 year or better would be my choice Dave. Keep an extra couple of bundles for incidental repair, ridge caps too.

I put a 25 year three tab on the rent house a few years back and regret it. The nice thing about the architectural is that they provide an extra layer, which give them more weight, stability, and resistance to hail and limb damage.

Use a good drip edge. It protects against ladder rub and incidental contact.
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Cyclonedon
Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 02:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

use GAF Architectural grade no tab shingles. There on sale right now at the Home Depot. Guaranteed lowest price.
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Aptbldr
Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 on 50-yr dimensional, any national mfg
With gutters, provide ice 'n water membrane @ level eaves & valleys.
30 lb roofing 'felt', 90 lb in valleys, as underlay.
I see first & frequent failures at valleys & at pipe penetration boots.
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Davegess
Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 10:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All the valleys will be metal, 3 feet of metal up from the bottom edge also under the shingles.
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99buellx1
Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We put metal "shingles" on my dads farm house.
They look like a regular roof from the road. Very nice.
I think they were harder to do in some ways than a standard roof just because you're working with metal.
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Guell
Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 07:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yea you can weave a valley with architectural shingles depending on how steep it is. Ive seen them done all ways, thats the way i prefer personally.
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Vtpeg
Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

slate is a lifetime roof and then some, but the weight is more than some structures can support. standing seam is your next best bet. The high up front cost is some what lessened when then roof has to be replaced, as metal can be recycled. Arch shingles are a good all around value, metal valleys are best, and be mindful of ventilation issues, as it affects shingle life more than most would think. GAF or Certainteed are good brands.
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Fahren
Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 08:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In your northern climate, go ahead and use ice and water shield all up along valleys, under your metal W flashing. Any joint is a potential problem, so focus your work on those areas. Good luck trying to cash in on a 40 or 50 year warranty. You are not a certified installer, so fuggedaboudit. The real reason to use them is that they will generally last longer, and the heavier weights help prevent blow-off. Order starter course shingles to go upside down along rakes and eaves - saves a little over using standard shingles for that. Do you have a ventilated ridge? Special ridge caps for those.
You may be able to offset up to $1500 of the cost of the re-roof by availing yourself of energy star "cool roof" rebates for using lighter color shingles. Look for the energy star logo, and check their web site to see the reg's:
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=tax_credits. tx_index
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Court
Posted on Friday, September 24, 2010 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lotta good info . . .

http://www.roofery.com/shingles/architectural.html

http://www.gaf.com/

http://www.gaf.com/Roofing/Residential-Roofing/Roo fing-Products/Shingles-Styles-Shingle-Colors/Timbe rline-Shingles/Timberline-Shingles.asp

We are in the midst of a major top to bottom renovation. Roof was done first. We used GAF Timberline Prestique 30.

They are starting all the new gutters and down spouts next week. It's a good feeling to have it done and done right . . . now all I have to suffer through is a new porch, new living room, new floors, kitchen, bathes, bedrooms and I'm done!.

: )

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Davegess
Posted on Friday, September 24, 2010 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am not doing the job myself, way to far up and way too much heavy work for this old fart. Just trying to educate myself for talking with the roofers.


Trying to figure out why one guys is $12000 bucks and another $19000 with the same grade of shingle. Where is the one guy cutting corners or is the highest guy over priced?
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Aptbldr
Posted on Friday, September 24, 2010 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dave attempt to measure the details between the two:
Equal prep, removing 100% existing roofing?
Equal level of accessories & underlay?
Equal clean-up & disposal?
Equal business model (an employer, or a broker trading on subcontractor's work)?
Equal responses on trade-references for recent/similar work?
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Blake
Posted on Friday, September 24, 2010 - 03:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How many square Dave?
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Blake
Posted on Friday, September 24, 2010 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

$19K sounds WAY high to me.
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Fahren
Posted on Friday, September 24, 2010 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

^^^Yeah, that.
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Court
Posted on Friday, September 24, 2010 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>>$19K sounds WAY high to me.

That is WAY high.

I just had ours done by a top quality roofer using GAF Timberline Prestique 30 shingles. I'll look at the exact price but it was well under $10,000.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Saturday, September 25, 2010 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dave,
i just did my roof this summer.
I used the 35 year shingles from Menards.
The architectural shingles are FAR superior to the 3 tab and look way better.
In our area, we have to install ice dam shield at least 3 feet up from the side wall.
I went 6 on the north side of the house.
For the valley tin, make sure you spec the colored version to match your shingle cover. It looks much better.

How many square is your roof? I may have missed that above..
Do you have a lot of valley or dormers?

$19K really sounds out of line.
One guy might be replacing all the roof vents/jacks, the other might be reusing the old ones.
Make sure new ones are speced don't reuse the old ones.
Also, make sure the vents are metal not plastic.
As mentioned above make sure the vent stack jacks are also replaced. Again the good metal type with the lead crimp lip on the top. Not the rubber gasket type. They suck and will leak after 5-10 years.

Post a couple of pics of your roof, I'll have a good contractor friend take a look and give his opinion.

In our area, lots of contractors sub out the roofs to other crews. Many of them are illegal alien crews. That's how they can do it cheaper. Most do a really good job and are fast but are not paid as well.

We did my roof in 2 days with a 2-3 man crew. 2 pros and either me or my son humping shingles. Back breaking work and HOT AS HELL!
2nd year in a row of done a roof, I really hope I'm done for a while. Like you, I'm getting too old for that crap.

Brad
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