Author |
Message |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 08:35 pm: |
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I was just curious since they use the same rear wheel as the XB series, right? |
Froggy
| Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 09:52 pm: |
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Yes they are affected too on 08 and 09's. |
Just_ziptab
| Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 10:49 pm: |
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Why? Water? Overstressed? |
Rwven
| Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 10:54 pm: |
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Neither...underengineered... |
Froggy
| Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 10:57 pm: |
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There is a bunch of contributing factors. Some fail for one reason, some fail for another. Either way the 2010 wheel is the fix. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 12:37 pm: |
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I wonder how hard it would be to downgrade to tapered rollers? There must have been a reason to get away from those but I have never heard of one failing catastrophically like our modern superior bearings. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 02:04 pm: |
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Different types of bearings have different applications. Just substituting one for another won't work. Like Froggy said, many things contribute to the failures. Time2ride |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 05:02 pm: |
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Well the crude old tapered rollers worked fine in my ironhead. There must be a reason that they are no longer used, right? I'm not saying that I would actually just do this. I'm just curious is all. |
D_adams
| Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 05:19 pm: |
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They might have worked fine in an ironhead, but I doubt it ever got anywhere close to the speeds an 1125 can hit. Mine were just replaced under warranty, 18k miles. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 07:47 pm: |
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Old crude, not roller bearings, just different loads and designs. When you change your tires make sure you try and turn your bearings by hand to see if they are rough or notchy. Coat the axel with never seize and follow the installation and torque specs. Neil S. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 09:46 pm: |
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I prefer good old fashioned grease on the axle; got an old tub of some peanut butter-looking stuff for brake components. I think it's as old as I am. Just about half used up! |
Ccryder
| Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 10:52 pm: |
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Nate: Grease is ok, Never-seize really does work better. I've tried both over the past 35+ years of riding covering 500,000+ s'miles and the Never-seize has never let me down, I can't say that about grease. Honda put their special grease on the rear axle and it did not do the job. Having to beat the axle out since it was seized to the bearing spacer caused the first set of bearing failures. The dealer had a window into their shop and I witnessed the Tech wailing away with a dead-blow hammer. When finally got the rear wheel and tire changed, I stopped him before he installed the wheel and asked him why he had to beat the axle out. He explained it to me. I asked if he checked the bearings? He said yep. The ST is setup with 2 sets of bearings due to the shaft drive. He only checked the ones onthe drive side in the wheel. When I asked to check the hub side he asked why? I turned the one's in the hub and they were WASTED! Lesson learned, don't trust that Tech and I bought a No-Mar changer so my rims would not get scratched. Last week that ST1300 turned 89,000 s'miles and never had issues once I changed to Never-seize. Later Neil S. |
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