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1313
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 03:54 pm: |
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In late August/early September I will be painting the inside of my garage. The walls and ceiling are pretty straightforward - of course - but I would also like to paint the floor after the walls and ceiling are done. Having never painted a concrete floor before I'd like to hear about the experiences from those of you who have done it. What has worked for you, or what hasn't. Basically anything I need to know beforehand to ensure success in this project. After all, I'm going to have to live with the results for a long time to come so I want to make sure that I will be pleased with the results. The (limited) research I've done to this point is what is available at Lowe's. This has been done out of convenience as it is only home improvement store in town, save for some of the good old fashioned hardware stores. Lowe's website shows 2 different brands; Quikrete, and Rust-Oleum. Based on what information is on Lowe's website I am leaning towards the Rust-Oleum system, but I would like to have a few more data points than just what is on a store's website. So with all of that said: 1. Have you used either product linked above or did you use something else? 2. How long have you had the coating applied and how has it held up? 3. In your application did you deviate from the product's instructions in any way? 4. If you had it to do over again, what would you do differently - if anything? 5. How long did the entire process take? Keep in mind this is linked to the area that was covered. The area that I will be doing this to is approximately 1,000 square feet. 6. How much time did you allow for curing? After the coating was applied, how soon did you park a vehicle, tool box, etc. in the area that was coated? 7. Do you have any other advice, or any pointers for this project? Thanks - in advance - for everyone's help/guidance/wisdom/suggestion/recommendation! 1313 |
Videoninja
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 04:01 pm: |
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chadhargis has done his "garage" might want to pm him or maybe he will chime in with suggestions |
Fahren
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 04:47 pm: |
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Look into a soy-based stain product called Soy-Crete. It's not acid-based, like Kemico, and it is definitely DIY material. I ordered it online. Different colors available. If you have an old concrete slab, you may have to use their de-greaser product first, that also opens up the pores of the concrete a bit. Then a coat or two of the stain, dead easy with a wide, sponge-mop-type stain applicator like what you would use on wood floors. Then after it dries, you can seal it with 2 coats of their sealant, and you are good to go for even automotive traffic. I like it because you still see some of the concrete swirls and different blotches, so it's not as perfect as paint that you have to feel anal about keeping clean. It's non-toxic, all the stuff is soy-based. I used it on my living room floor, which is a slab on grade with radiant floor heat (pex tubing) embedded in the slab. A coupla hundred bucks should get 'er done. Here's a link to the product site/color chart: http://www.ecoprocote.com/SoyCrete-Concrete-Stain- Color-Chart-s/61.htm I don't work for them - no affiliation - I just think it came out really well, and was super-easy and durable. The stain is in the concrete, not on it, so it is forever, especially with the 2 sealant coats. Quick dry/cure times, no bad fumes. (Message edited by fahren on July 18, 2010) |
Toona
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 05:21 pm: |
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I've used the Rust Oleum from Lowes. Correct concrete prep is a must for the best results. If you are painted a "used" garage floor with grease, oil, dirt etc on it already. Spot clean it with Tide laundry detergent or laquer thinner for all the major dirty areas, like below a car oil pan. Use the "detergent" in the pouches included in the kit. After that, I then washed the "cleaned" concrete with muratic acid Lowes-paint aisle) and a pressure washer. Then went back and rinsed it again. Let it dry overnight at minimum. I run a box fan just to keep the air moving. Start away from where you want to finish. I used cheap throw away roller covers and plastic tray liners. Work 8' x 8' areas. Throw the little chips/flecks UP in the air and they "decorate" the finish better than throwing them AT the floor. Actual application time for 1000 SF should be a good 8-10 hour day, not including prep time. The Rust Oleum kit for 1000 SF is pretty close on coverage area. Don't be afraid to "lay it on thick". You will be able to see where you stretched it out (thin) and where you didn't. Leave a fan run on it all night long. You can walk on it the next morning. I don't remember it smelling any worse than a regular house paint, so I'd say there no need for any kind of respirator, unless you're sensitive to various smells. I think the instructions say to not park a car on it for 2-3 days. One of the kits at Lowes had the option, as a secondary finish, to put a "clear gloss coat" on. I haven't used this as I was short on time as it was for the last shop project. I'll post some before/after pics later tonight. |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 05:49 pm: |
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I used the Rust-Oleum brand. It's tough stuff, but you do have to do some prep work. It's a two part epoxy and when you mix it, you have to work fast before it hardens. That said, it's nearly indestructible. When I got flooded we were using shovels to scoop up drywall off the floor and it didn't so much as scratch it. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 07:33 pm: |
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Why do you want to paint concrete? |
Videoninja
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 07:40 pm: |
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Why do you want to paint concrete? Improved appearance, easier to clean, some paints have sand for a non slip surface. |
Spiderman
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 07:56 pm: |
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NINJA PLEASE! |
Aesquire
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 08:00 pm: |
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I used Behr ( home despot ) 1 part epoxy/acrylic concrete & garage floor paint in my basement. works great. BUT. prep is all when painting concrete. I washed with detergent & rinse mopped....then wised up and mopped with detergent, mopped with clean water then vacuumed up the floor with a shop vac. Primered the same day. Used the Behr concrete bonding primer. Goes on like water, dries clear & tacky. Paint the next day was a musical number with each foot lifting against the tacky primer making a "rip" sound. I wore old cheap deck shoes and then wore them outside ( not in the house ) a few times to get the tacky out. Compared to a bud who didn't use the bonding primer my floor is rock hard, his flaked up where a rolling office chair moves. But your local place has rustoleum, so.... take the above good advice on cleaning & painting, use the degreaser/etcher stuff, and you'll be fine. Final clear water mop with lots of water & puddles dries much faster if you rinse with abandon, then vacuum it up. |
Videoninja
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 08:11 pm: |
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NINJA PLEASE! Please what? I would stop posting and go ride but unfortunately my bike is still dead. |
Spiderman
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 08:20 pm: |
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LOL sending you a PM |
Cowboy
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:09 pm: |
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I removed all carpet from my home(it stoped most of my wifes allergy) then used cement stain from lowes just follow thier directions It looks just like marble and is easy to clean we like it. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:18 pm: |
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>>Improved appearance ...... My question was for 1313. I'd guess 1313's floor isn't as nice as he'd like it to be. |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:57 pm: |
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It's not "paint". It's a two part epoxy that's chemical proof, oil proof, waterproof, and as was mentioned, you can put sand in it for a non slip service. It won't stick to tires, looks great, and it's easy to clean. Spill something on it...just wipe it up. Won't soak into the concrete and stain it. I'd love to do my garage, but the cleaning task for my garage would be daunting. I put it on my shop floor and it was easy as it used to be covered with carpet. |
S3ters
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 10:00 pm: |
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http://epoxyguard.net/ Good Stuff |
1313
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 10:09 pm: |
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Why do you want to paint concrete? Well, Jramsey, my answers have already been given: Improved appearance, easier to clean are the main reasons why I want to paint my concrete garage floor. For me, the garage makes the home and is my home away from home. Besides with 3 Buell's that will occupy the garage (Let's forget about the V-Rod for the moment, shall we?) their home should be fitting for the fine machines that they are. I'm still interested in seeing Toona's before and after pics as it should provide even more motivation for me, 1313 |
Just_ziptab
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 11:28 pm: |
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Plain 'ol clear sealer ain't bad either for looks........
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Toona
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 11:35 pm: |
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My Bad...I forgot.... Before
After
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Xl1200r
| Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 06:47 pm: |
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I used this on my floor: http://www.epoxy-coat.com/ I really like it, super easy. Prep os key. My floor was dirty, greasy, pitted and had a layer of peeling paint on it already, so I had to grind the whole floor before cleaning and coating. My research has said to stay away from the stuff at Lowe's or Home Depot. |
Easy_rider
| Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 07:23 pm: |
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I wouldn't mind doing this, either. I'm afraid that the coating will become a slip hazard, especially when water gets tracked in. Does the sand for non-slip surface wear off or make it harder to clean? |
Strokizator
| Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 07:58 pm: |
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You can get acceptable results with the DIY kits but the pro results are many times better. I did a 20x20 storage bldg. myself but had the pros do my garage. Let's just say I won't be quitting my day job any time soon to go into the floor sealing business. |
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