Author |
Message |
Kenney83
| Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 03:11 pm: |
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i am going to order a new one, but i was wondering if it is ok to ride with until a new one comes in or should i just park it and wait? |
Froggy
| Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 03:12 pm: |
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DO NOT RIDE! You will run the risk of damaging the header and the studs for connecting the header to the engine. |
Kenney83
| Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 03:21 pm: |
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can i get some large metal hose clamps to get me through till the actual exhaust clamps come in? the bike is my main mode of transportation. |
Bosh
| Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 03:24 pm: |
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+1 on what the Frog said. Its been pretty well documented that you run a high risk of snapping off your exhaust studs. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 06:22 pm: |
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I used the auto parts exhaust hanger strap (like a 1" wide steel strap with holes every inch or so and two bolts that go through the holes to tie them together) to get from work back home when mine broke, and it was still in good shape when I pulled it (17 miles). FWIW. Snapping a stud is a royal PITA though, so don't take many chances. NAPA and marine supply stores have clamps either in stock or a day away. I am running one of those now, and it is holding (500 miles or so), but they are not as beefy as the factory clamps. |
Speedfreaks101
| Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 07:07 pm: |
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I would be looking for the reason the strap broke in the first place. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 07:50 pm: |
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If you install one without following the manual, you are just about guaranteed to *really* over torque it. |
Bcordb3
| Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 08:27 pm: |
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I remember a thread a few years ago referring to exhaust clamp were a one of own was seriously injured here in Arizona. I recall the clamp broke , the muffler fell and caused him to crash. |
2008xb12scg
| Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 08:32 pm: |
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you could call Al at american sport bike and he will next day it to you. Thats what I did. the clamp was cheap and the shipping was alot, but I was desperate and needed the bike. make sure you follow the manual on the torque specs. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 08:26 am: |
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The only case I know of where the failing clamp caused an injury was an aftermarket exhaust with a reused clamp. I had an XB9 that lost the bolt that holds the clamp to the motor... it sheared an exhaust stud and made a racket that made it obvious I had an issue. My new to me Uly lost the front strap (broke, likely torqued wrong on previous install by previous owner, it is really easy to do it wrong) and it made a subtle change in vibration at the pegs that I spotted quickly. Plus the strap was half dangling, so you should spot it on your pre-ride quick inspection. I make it a habit to kick the exhaust and listen for clunks now. If the front clamp fails, the front header clamp is still holding it on, and the rear two clamps are holding it on. I think a few header studs would have to shear before it could completely let go. So definitely don't mess with a broken one... but it would take a lot of ignoring of a lot of stuff to get yourself hurt by it. |
Kenney83
| Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 10:43 am: |
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I noticed the broken strap when i got home and looked at the bike. So it happened while i was riding. More than likely i over torqued it when i put my Spec Ops exhaust on it. i am going to buy a new front and rear strap and put it on via the owners manual. Which I didn't have before. |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 10:26 pm: |
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I have had many front muffler straps break at the race track (only one on the street). Tried everything to keep them from breaking, but nothing seemed to work. The street one was a used strap that was most likely torqued wrong. A new strap with the correct torque and no more problems. For the race bike, my final solution was to modify a broken strap with a spring (from a different after market muffler). This mod has held at Daytona and Road Atlanta, both tracks with a LOT of time a WOT and high RPMs. If you are going to try it, pay close attention to exactly where you incorporate the spring. If done wrong, it will not fit between the bracket and the motor. |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 10:27 pm: |
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Also check with your local hydraulic shop. They usually have the correct strap for $4-6. I believe the strap is 6 1/2 in diameter, but I may be wrong. |
Kenney83
| Posted on Saturday, July 03, 2010 - 12:44 pm: |
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do you have a pics of the strap with springs? |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Saturday, July 03, 2010 - 09:09 pm: |
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I'll get some pics of it within the next couple days. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 02:12 pm: |
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Good tip on the hydraulic shop... maybe they have one that actually matches the factory one with the thicker steel. The marine supply and auto parts store units do NOT match. |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 08:42 pm: |
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Pics...
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Paint_shaker
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 08:44 pm: |
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Some more...
(Message edited by Paint_shaker on July 09, 2010) |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 09:20 am: |
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Very interesting approach! Thanks for posting that. Probably woudn't do a street bike like that, but for a race bike I might, and it might make a good "half way through a road trip" repair strategy. My "not as thick marine store replacement" is still holding fine, FWIW. |