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Buell Forum » Quick Board » Archives » Archive through July 03, 2010 » How best to preserve Erik's signature on my frame... « Previous Next »

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Spudman1125r
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 07:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just wondering...I know I'm only one of MANY who has had their bike signed by Erik himself at a Homecoming event or elsewhere. "The Man" signed my '08 1125R on the frame at this year's party with one of those silver Sharpee pens and I'm wondering what the best way to preserve the signature might be. I was given clear laminate by Will from the Sign Shop at the event but it got all wrinkled when I packed it with my clothes for the ride home (yeah...I'm an idiot). Is this the best option, or is there another spray-on or brush-on clear coat I should use? Any tips are appreciated!
Erik's autograph
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Sleez
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 07:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i'm in the same boat, my clear cover got damaged when some knucklehead (me) tried to put it on, got it crooked, then tried to peel it off, but it left a ghost image of the sig on the underside of the sticker!!! threw it away, now need a good way to preserve it as you requested. i will be watching this thread with interest!
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Slaughter
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You really ought to talk to a QUALITY custom paint shop about clear coating. Usually they are running catalysed acrylic or clear polyurethane. It'll hold up better than the clear vinyl peel-and-stick BUT is probably going to cost $100 - unless you can leave it with them until they're shooting clear so you don't pay for a separate setup, mix, cleanup.

Either way will be better than having it burned off in the direct sunlight.
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Froggy
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I leave mine bare. Erik signed my Uly a few years ago, about 4 weeks later the insurance company took it away. We shall see if history repeats itself : D
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Americanmadexb
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 08:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had him sign my seat cowl this year and i'm thinking of going to get a rattle can of clear!

What could go wrong right?
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Dynasport
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 08:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just purchased a rattle can of clear coat, but I have not applied it yet. If I shouldn't use it for some reason, I'd really like to know. I am not experienced nor knowledgeable about these things.
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Buellish
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm no expert but when you spray paint shouldn't you clean and sand first,for good adhesion?
Sanding would defeat the purpose unless you could use 800 or 1000 grit and not destroy the signature.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 09:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have to use the RIGHT clear. If you use the wrong stuff, the paint/clear itself will loosen the signature paint back up, turn it liquid again, and make it run.

Erik signed my S2 last year. I got home and went to a painter friend to get it cleared. He had me get the make/model of the silver paint pen Erik used so he'd use the right clear. He did a great job...but even with the "right" stuff, the image fuzzed a little bit and lost some crispness. But...it's there forever now and that is exactly what I wanted.

Best, safest bet is the paint protector sheets. Read the instructions, you should be able to apply them on a layer of soapy water so you can tweak the position a little bit. As the soap and water dries...the glue takes over. If you have a hazy look once it dries, hit it with a hairdryer on low - that will heat the adhesive enough to "mold" it to the surface, eliminating any haze or air pockets.

(Message edited by ratbuell on June 26, 2010)
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Spudman1125r
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 09:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just want to make sure that the method I choose to preserve the signature is going to be long-lasting. The frame is aluminum (right?) and quite smooth; I'm really starting to wonder if just masking off the area where Erik signed and hitting it with about 100 light coats of clear might not be the way to go! I just need to find out what TYPE of clear to buy though.
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Dynasport
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am not familiar with paint protector sheets. Do you get them at auto supply stores, or do you go to a paint specialty store?
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Spudman1125r
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 09:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Ratbuell...I must have posted my last one right at the same time you were.
By the way...where do I get these "Paint protector sheets"? Are they the ones I saw at American Sportbike? The description there says "easily removable", so I'm not sure that's what I'd be looking for.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you have a local auto detail or tint shop, ask them for 3M clear protector sheets.

Selling RV's now, I've noticed most of the motorized painted units have it as an option from the factory, on the front end. Protects from rock chips and the like, and aside from the occasional seam between sheets...you don't know they're there.
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Slaughter
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is 3M's official site for their Paint Protection Films - including a "where to buy" link.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotch gard_Paint_Protection/Film
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Spudman1125r
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 10:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks everyone for the tips. After reading up on the 3M Paint Protection Film, it looks like this is exactly what I'm looking for. It goes on very similar to the way I applied the 2010 graphics to my radiator pods, and those things are on there REAL good! It's available from several sellers on eBay, so I'll post a pic or two after I get it and apply it.
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Ourdee
Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I shot mine with some clear rattle can I had laying around. Very very very did I say very light coats to start with. Not enough to cover at first. Let it set up and then another light misting. My concern was getting the paint to not turn wet and run. Mine came out good. Remember it is at your own risk.
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Just_ziptab
Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2010 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Erik could make a fortune selling 3M decals of his signature.
Course,it wouldn't be the same.......but just saying..............
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Wbrisett
Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2010 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At his table at the party, at Homecoming, the shirt vendor was selling clear protection film.
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Gunut75
Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2010 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Let it wear off from normal use, then get yer butt to the next HC to have it signed again.
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Dtx
Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2010 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was lucky enough to get Danny Eslick's signature too. Erik's is in the same place on the other side. I masked off the two areas and clear coated them with a rattle can. It seems to be holding up well. (Although, I hadn't done it yet in this pic).


1
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Ourdee
Posted on Wednesday, June 30, 2010 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Danny who.
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Aeholton
Posted on Thursday, July 01, 2010 - 09:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Danny who.

Some Suzuki and XR1200 rider.

j/k. I'm actually a Danny fan.
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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 09:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

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Etennuly
Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rattle can clear will do the job for most cases. The only exception is if your bike sets out in the sun all of the time.....then it won't matter much anyway.

I recommend to make the area clean with soapy water, dry it thoroughly, mask around the signature as if you were making a clear decal, cover the rest of the bike completely to protect it from overspray, then spray it first with an adhesion promoting clear(like 'Bulldog Adhesion Coat', yes it comes in a spray can also) then use the best professional spray can UV resistant clear coat that you can find(SEM is a good brand).

Just remember to follow the directions, except you must skip the sanding part, and spray one coat at a time allowing enough dry time between coats. I would stick with the mfgr's recommended number of coats of clear. Too much can make it fail faster.

Oh.....and make sure your hands are clean and grease free. You will have a mess if you are trying to paint with an Italian sub in one hand and a spray can in the other!
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