Author |
Message |
Joshinga
| Posted on Friday, February 26, 2010 - 02:05 pm: |
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Whats the best oil for the 1125??? I know Im gonna regret this |
Joshinga
| Posted on Friday, February 26, 2010 - 03:44 pm: |
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bump |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, February 26, 2010 - 04:01 pm: |
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Full synthetic in the recommended weight gives you superior margins for both temperature and service life, relative to non synthetic. That much is an objective truth. |
Swordsman
| Posted on Friday, February 26, 2010 - 04:09 pm: |
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Coconut. Really livens up chicken and makes for the best chocolate chip cookies you'll ever eat. Just watch out for the low burning temp. FYI, does NOT work well in motorcycles. But seriously, I was using the Harley stuff in my XB, but switched to the full syn Mobil 1 last time. Maybe it's just me, but seemed like the engine is now a lot "clackier"... more racket while idling. Also, the underseat heat never really bothered me before, but this past season I thought it was going to cook me alive, and it was a relatively mild Summer (considering all the global warming and whatnot!). I dunno if this would be because the full syn is better at dissipating heat, or because it's holding it in. ~SM (Message edited by Swordsman on February 26, 2010) |
Joshinga
| Posted on Friday, February 26, 2010 - 04:11 pm: |
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ha ha f-ing ha |
Swordsman
| Posted on Friday, February 26, 2010 - 04:17 pm: |
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Azxb9r
| Posted on Friday, February 26, 2010 - 04:31 pm: |
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What Reepicheep said. Anything beyond that is opinion, and you know what they say about opinions... |
Fahren
| Posted on Friday, February 26, 2010 - 05:48 pm: |
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Read your manual: Synthetic 20W50. Of course, they push the HD stuff. But we're flagellating an expired equine here. |
Cravacor
| Posted on Friday, February 26, 2010 - 06:30 pm: |
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"But we're flagellating an expired equine here."
|
Joshinga
| Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 06:45 pm: |
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Ok I get it. Its an old topic. I also know that this is a very opinionated subject but that’s what I want you’re OPINON. Now I know that 20/50 is what the factory said I mean I’m a tech for god sake. It’s just the reality of it is some oils are better than other. But the second part of the question was that I live in a relatively hot climate in the summer (south Ga). So I pose my question again what is the best (in your opinion) oil for the 1125 in a hot climate??? |
Cowboy
| Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 06:57 pm: |
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I cant say about the 1125 as I dont have one ButI started my V-Rod on mobil 1 and every time I changed it it was clear It did not look like it was cleaning the motor very well so I changed to castor oil now it is good and black when changeing it I feel it is doing a better job cleaning motor. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 07:35 pm: |
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Rotella T |
Froggy
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 02:23 am: |
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I have been very happy with Amsoil 20w-50 full syn motorcycle oil in all my Buell's. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 02:46 am: |
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Actually I run Mobil 1 15/50 in my Buells, very happy with its performance so far. I change it out at 2 to 3 thousand intervals. EZ |
86129squids
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 02:52 am: |
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Duck butter. |
Danger_dave
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 03:48 am: |
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I find the stuff that is a brown sort of colour works best. |
Firebolt020283
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:00 am: |
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I have been seeing lots of recommendations for amsoil reading threw oil threads lately as I was contemplating what to use in my xb9r when I get back home. In my M2 I have always used mobil1 but I am seriously thinking of going with amsoil for both and the car when I get home. |
Court
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 10:41 am: |
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The good news . . . and I toss this into most oil threads . . . is that with the oils we have today . . . it really makes nearly zero difference. If you buy the cheapest crappiest oil you can get and change it regularly . . . and ohhhhhh, I hate to say this . . . it will likely perform as well as the Mobil 1 and the full syn I put in my bikes and cars. Those of us who learned to change oil "every 3,000 miles" are the folks the oil companies love. The answer is that there are no "bad" oils but we all still use the best we can buy. |
Bads1
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 10:46 am: |
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Can't agree on that. Mobil 1 years back have changed it up a bit. Put different additives in that they used to not. Now Mobil as in the Euro spec oil is great. Mobil 1 syn breaks down pretty quick in my WRX.Now though at what you pay for it.... I feel I should get more then 3000 miles out of it. I can't |
Iamike
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 03:47 pm: |
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Here's a link that has been around for awhile on oil: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html |
Doerman
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 03:53 pm: |
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Grapeseed Oil. Great on salads in a vinegar/oil dressing and does not turn to transfat when used for cooking. Extra Virgin Olive oil is also good. |
Joshinga
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:01 pm: |
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Iv heard a long time ago that if you used something like mineral oil in the motor it would clean the s**t out of it but you could only run it for a short time. like just 100 miles short |
Greg_e
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:01 pm: |
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quote: In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed. Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics.
Makes me rethink the choice of oil I was going to put ij when the snow finally melts. I was going to use Mobile 1 V-Twin but maybe not now. Have to look and see what else I can get locally. |
Bads1
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:04 pm: |
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Greg.... ya hit right on the nail. |
Bads1
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:13 pm: |
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A very very very good oil that is cheap at Walmart is Rotella T by Shell. |
Iamike
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:18 pm: |
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Bads1- Do you have your oil analyzed? My '03 Benz recommends Mobil 1 with a 10,000mi. interval. I just did my first oil change today and it was pretty stinky so I might just send a sample in to have it tested. I was reading a BMW auto user group site awhile ago. Some guy went 47,000mi. on his original oil. When they pulled the valve covers the sludge was amazing but the engine still ran. They were telling him the problem with trying to use an engine cleaner would be all the crud that would be floating around. |
Bads1
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:22 pm: |
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I belong to a much like this forum a Subaru forum. Many have shown there oils analyzed with Mobil 1. One of which is a good friend a tech to boot. The test came up on the poor side. Keep in account the the WRX being a turbo is alittle harsh on oil. I run Redline. Subaru |
Slaughter
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:59 pm: |
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Duck butter ONLY works in summer (or was it supper?) I'd recommend castor bean oil. Been around for HUNDREDS of years before all-o-dis modern synthetic crap. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 05:34 pm: |
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I just finished reading the whole article and I might go Delvac 1 or Rotella T, there are several trucks stops nearby that I can go to if I need to get them and I know they sell in gallon jugs for top off use. I need to read the Mobile 1 V-Twin info again, they may be using the much longer lasting viscosity index improvers that are made for high shear applications like our gearboxes and they specify more and better detergents so it might still be a decent choice. I'll have to stop at the auto store and see what sits on the shelves. If I have to buy a gallon then I can give the rest to my brother for his KLR. My only big concerns are early breakdown and killing the charging system. |
Iamike
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 06:02 pm: |
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I've been using the Rotella T synthetic 5W40 in my Hondas for quite awhile. The ST1300 has 43,000mi. and literally doesn't use a drop during the interval (8,000mi., not that I run it quite that long). Wal Mart sells it for a few dollars less than the Mobil 1 in gallon jugs. They also have Mobil 1 in 5qt. jugs. |