| Author |
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Fordrox
| | Posted on Saturday, February 20, 2010 - 08:02 pm: | 
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That's why my Fords are Diesel powered, no plugs to change. Well that and they make much more power. |
Azxb9r
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 11:23 am: |
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With carbon build up being the cause of it sticking causing it to break upon removal, I wonder if one should run a top engine cleaner through it first, to loosen and remove some of the carbon
Changing the plugs more often will alleviate the problem. Regardless of what the manufacturer calls for, leaving your plugs in for 100K is asking for trouble.
Use the Champion 1 piece design for the replacement.
That's why my Fords are Diesel powered, no plugs to change
Just wait till ya have to change a high pressure oil pump |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 11:43 am: |
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I run GM trucks, haven't seen these problems.
 |
P47b
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 11:45 am: |
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That's why my Fords are Diesel powered, no plugs to change
Just wait till ya have to change a high pressure oil pump.
No doubt!!
I know I'm going to get pummeled here.
Put a SMALL amount of Bostik Never-Seez} on your plugs. I have yet to have a problem with the plugs freezing up. Never had one back out either. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 11:56 am: |
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P, why would you get pummeled?
My service manual (Chrysler) recommends the use of anti sieze when replacing plugs.
Just use the right version, the silver is the correct for plugs in aluminum heads.
The copper colors stuff is for ferrous to ferrous.
Brad |
Ulynut
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 12:21 pm: |
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Well, I went searching all over the area this morning looking for that tool. Nobody had the Lisle set, and being a sunday, I would have to wait until tomorrow for one.
I did, however, find another set that utilizes locktite 680 to bond to the porcelin in order to pull it out. Then a second kit to pull the metal piece out. I actually feel more comfortable with this system because there's less of a chance to push that thing down into the cylinder.
I just have to warm up the area to 70 degrees, and keep it warm for an hour while the locktite sets. Tough trick when it's 40 degrees out right now. So I put my drop light in there as close as I can get, maybe that's enough. I'll go borrow a heat gun from my buddy while that light is in there cooking.
fingers crossed. |
Ulynut
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 04:29 pm: |
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Dangit!!! No luck. Need to buy that Lisle tool now. Dangit!!!  |
P47b
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 04:38 pm: |
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Well it kind of falls in the LocTite category. Either you love it or hate it. I have had to educate more than a few mechanics on the type, use, and where and not to put thread lock. Otherwise every one grabs the high strength 262 or 271. |
Sifo
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 04:56 pm: |
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I'm not familiar with this type of plug or the tools involved, BUT...
If the LocTite tool uses a type of LocTite to bond to the porcelain then but that bond isn't working for what ever reason... Would there be any harm in trying a more permanent adhesive such as epoxy? No doubt the LocTite makes for easier clean up of the tool for the next use, but I'm guessing you aren't really concerned with using the tool a second time.
Please be sure to think this through before following my advise. I only guarantee my advise for the cost of what you paid for it.  |
Mr_grumpy
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 05:00 pm: |
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F O R D
Fix
Or
Repair
Daily
Sorry, couldn't resist. |
Ulynut
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 05:04 pm: |
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but I'm guessing you aren't really concerned with using the tool a second time.
I can guarantee, 100%, I will never, ever, try to change another spark plug in a Ford Triton motor again. I'm ready to give this truck the old school "dynomite fix". I think I can fit a stick of 1" in that hole. Maybe fill the block with some ANFO for good measure. |
P47b
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 05:33 pm: |
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I have a 65 chevy truck with a 327 that eats the two front plugs. Every plug I have put in it has froze up in the threads. But that was before I found Never-Seez. |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 08:01 pm: |
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There is an epoxy putty that is available at Wally world and any auto parts store. It is sold under different names, "steel putty","Metal Epoxy" or something like that. It is in a tube, 1" in diameter by about three inches. I carry a tube in my bike because it will do so many things. I have filled holes, filed it to contour and then drilled and tapped it and glued a lot of crap together permanently.
Just for sport I had a gob left over and just pushed it on a ladder frame at a building I was renting. I forgot about it for a month or two. I saw it one day figuring I should knock it off from there. I smacked with a hammer, then a hammer and chisel and finally I laid into it with an air chisel to remove it.
If you were to have a bit of this stuff applied to a bolt, say 3/8" diameter or the largest that will easily fit into the hole, without getting it too close to touching the side walls of the hole, give it time to set, I would bet it will allow you to wiggle, pull, and screw it around until it pulls that thing out.
At 70F degrees it starts to set in four to five minutes. It will stick and hold stuff in five to ten minutes, and can be machined in twelve hours.
My experience with it and seeing the problem at hand, would have me heating it for about ten minutes with the wife's hair drier, preferably your buddies heat gun. You need to heat it enough to drive any moisture out of the metal and warm it above 70 degrees. Stick it in there on the end of the bolt, push a little until you feel it squish somewhat, then walk away for four or five hours. Then get on it with vise grips, wiggle, tug, pull, twist and turn.
If the bolt breaks loose before getting it out, try it again with a longer warm up cycle and let it sit for 12 hours, then repeat the exercise. If it turned out to be a total failure you would only be out $5 and a couple attempts. |
Sknight
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 08:58 pm: |
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The problem is actual carbon buildup on the lower portion of the plug, it breaks up and jams when you try to remove the plug, then pop goes the plug.
The Ford techs I talk to pull the trucks in, break each plug loose no more than 1/8 turn then fill the hole up with carb cleaner. After an hour or so they work the plug back and forth to help soften up the carbon. It seems to help. |
Ulynut
| | Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 09:05 pm: |
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Or I could goop it up so bad a head removal would be neccesary. The end of that plug is only about as big around as a pencil, and the hole is tapered at the bottom. Add to that the fact that I can't see in there, it's a little dicey for a goober like me to do. If I get a glob of that stuff on the tapered area, the plug won't seat properly, and if I get a little on the plug and the side of the hole, I'll just glue it in there even tighter. I think I like the dynomite idea. |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 08:55 am: |
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Why not put epoxy in the center of the hole (make sure it doesn't leak into the cylinder) and then crank the motor. Letting compression push the part out. |
99savage
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 09:27 am: |
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Just my $0.02, but were I in your situation I would not hesitate to use epoxy. Not filled epoxy such as "Plastic Steel" or whatever, just plain epoxy.
Even if it did drip into the cylinder "so what". It will either burn off or be an innocuous lump.
Clean the hole w/ Q-Tips & every solvent I had in the house. - Brighten the rod I was going to insert w/ emery cloth. - Use a Q-Tip to put epoxy in the hole. - Wet the rod t/ epoxy all the way around. - Insert the rod.
Keep the area warm until the epoxy cures. - Put your mixing cup next the the problem area - DO NOT DO ANYTHING UNTIL THE EPOXY IN THE CUP IS CURED.
Crackhead might be on to something |
99buellx1
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 10:46 am: |
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Since we're on the subject of Ford trucks.
I'm looking at getting an F150, probably '04 - '06.
Any changes through these years, and things to look for? |
Mnrider
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 11:09 am: |
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I work at a Ford dealer and put those plugs in all the time-don't panic!
Get the NAPA tool part #77-4021.
Very easy to get the broken part out with that tool.
Then you put anti-seize on the lower part of the new plug.
I forgot to mention,don't worry if the electrode stays in the broken part,the tool will push that down.
I then use a blow gun with a piece of brake line on it to blow out the cyl.
It's not a big deal with the NAPA tool.
(Message edited by mnrider on February 22, 2010)
(Message edited by mnrider on February 22, 2010) |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 12:35 pm: |
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Epoxy the hole shut and have A V-7 F-150?
Hope the Mnrider tool works! I was thinking of you yesterday when I replaced the plugs on the Saab. The carbon made the first two or three turns really crunchy. I was waiting for the "$300 'ting' noise". Fortunately, they came out.
I *always* put anti-seize on spark plugs. Just keep it off the electrodes, as it'll conduct. |
Ulynut
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 05:18 pm: |
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I'm giving it another shot with the locktite method. Cleaned everything really good, got the heat gun down in there for a good long while so everything was warm to the touch. Got the tool inserted now with the heat gun pointed right at it on low heat. It feels nice and warm around the area. I'll let it sit for a few hours like that (instructions say 1 hour).
That Lisle tool is on backorder so I decided to give this another shot. If it doesn't work, I'll be riding the Uly in the snow tomorrow. Whoopie! |
Road_thing
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 06:21 pm: |
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Got the tool inserted now with the heat gun pointed right at it on low heat. It feels nice and warm around the area.
That sounds nasty and painful at the same time!
Good luck...
rt |
Ulynut
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 06:31 pm: |
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Did I write that?
Thanks for the well wishes. I hope I can get it done before it starts raining tonight. |
Sifo
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 06:32 pm: |
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JUST DON'T BREAK IT OFF!  |
Natexlh1000
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 07:31 pm: |
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My Toyota V6 pickup has all of its plugs seized in the aluminum heads.
It's a 1990 and I think the plugs are from 1994.
I decided to leave them alone.
Those plugs are "good for the life of the enine"!
They will DEFINE the life of the engine  |
Ulynut
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 09:33 pm: |
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YEEEEE---HAAAAAAA!!!
Got done just as it started snowing. That was a big p.i.t.a.
Thanks for all the help guys. I'm gonna sleep good tonight.
P.S. Don't ever let me work on your truck. |
Sleez
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 10:01 pm: |
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very cool!!! enjoy a brew!! anti-seize the new plugs, eh? |
Wolfridgerider
| | Posted on Monday, February 22, 2010 - 10:51 pm: |
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 |
Mr_grumpy
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 04:52 am: |
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Glad you got it sorted mate.
There's no finer feeling than fixing it yourself after a near disaster like that.
All the same, I think I'll stick with Mopars. |
Gunut75
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 09:41 am: |
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Glad to hear it bro! Cheers! |
Road_thing
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 09:50 am: |
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Very cool. Didja feel like a cigarette after you pulled it out?
rt |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 10:29 am: |
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Ding Ding! We have a winner! |
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