| Author | Message | ||
     Michelangelo |
1998 S-1W and trying to remove points cover. By that I mean the right side. I got all the allen head bolts off. Tap a few times with rubber mallet and the cover comes about 1/4 inch off the engine case (along with a bunch of oil draining) and stops with a big "CLUNK". It's as if it's getting stopped by something. Any help or ideas appreciated. | ||
| Spiderman |
OK it sounds like you are removing the cam cover. If so did you remove the cam rotor from under the timing plate? Did you remove the rocker covers from the top end to relive pressure on the cams? | ||
| Jramsey |
>>> bunch of oil......... Sounds like you are removing the cam case and not the timing cover. 4 screws total 2 hold the outer cover and 2 hold the outer cover mount plate. | ||
| Kyrocket |
Be careful. Your cams are under pressure under there. Loosening the rocker boxes will help relieve that pressure. It can be done without that step but you're rolling the dice. I don't know about the '98's but the '99's original points cover was riveted on, you have to drill out the rivets and replace with screws. | ||
| F_skinner |
Michelangelo, not sure what you mean when you say right side of the bike. It is a matter of how you are looking at the bike. It sounds like you are removing the primary cover in which case your are getting stuck because you have not removed the clutch outer and inner ramp assembly. This is under the clutch cover which has 4 T-27 bolts. While I am thinking about it here is a link for the service manual for a S1. Although you have a 98S1W this will work for you as well.. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1 996-1997_Service/intro.pdf | ||
| F_skinner |
Of course if you are removing the "Timing Cover" your bike does not have points. It is in there as well. It is an invaluable tool. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you don't have the manual, here's laymans terms: The large cover is the cam case cover. It is held on with allen head bolts. In the middle of it is a round cover with 2 rivets, engraved with "S1 White Lightning" and a logo. Drill those rivets. Under the rivets is the timing pickup module, it sits on the end of a cam. Remove two screws to get the pickup itself loose. Pull it out of the way. There is a cup underneath with a couple of notches in it, that is actually bolted (screwed) to the end of the cam. Unscrew it and remove it. Chances are this is what is halting you at 1/4". Now, take off your rocker boxes so you can remove your pushrods - they are putting spring pressure on the tops of the cams, pushing them down. If you remove the cam cover with the pushrods in, your cams will be forced down at an angle, which is Not A Good Thing. Put the pushrods IN ORDER when you put them down - they're not identical, they have to go back where they came from. Once you have the pushrods out and organized, you can remove the cover you initially tried to remove. It's recommended that you put the engine at TDC before you remove it, though, because at least one cam will probably fall out when you pull the cover. Putting them back is easier if you're at TDC and you can line up the marks  Out of curiosity - what are you trying to do? May be you don't have to take off the cam cover at all.... | ||
| Swampy |
Rickroll? | ||
| Michelangelo |
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d28/Schultzee/Mo bile%20Uploads/?action=view¤t=0219101246_01. jpg Here is what I'm talking about but sounds like removing it to polish it is more hassle than anything? | ||
| Swampy |
No, you don't want to remove that. To do so requires you remove the rocker covers, the ignition module, and the timing cup underneath it. Then you have about $60 worth of gaskets to replace, and while you are in there you will want to replace the oil pump drive gear with the "good" one, and for that you are going to need a special tool to lock the pinion gear to remove and retighten the crank nut. | ||
| Brumbear |
Hey do you do ECM's too? | ||
| Spiderman |
Uggg!! This is why you get, read and understand your manual before you even pick up a wrench. If you managed to get that cover off you could have broken the inner motor case from the torsional load from the valve springs... Frank posted a manual that tells you all you need to do. Follow it. | ||
| Sifo |
No, you don't want to remove that. To do so requires you remove the rocker covers, the ignition module, and the timing cup underneath it. Then you have about $60 worth of gaskets to replace,... He's already got it pulled away from the gasket. Odds of that gasket sealing again? I guess you could try and see if it leaks, but I have my doubts. RTFM  | ||
| 99buellx1 |
BTW, that is not just a cosmetic piece. But, I'm guessing that you now know that. | ||
| Aesquire |
I think if he just wipes the surfaces clean, makes sure that all the gaskets are ok and tightens it back up he'll be ok. A point of philosophy here. The Buell tube frame bikes used an engine that was first built in 1957 as a side valve engine. Refined as an overhead valve engine the competition of the Sportster with the Triumph Bonneville began and bike history was made. Really a state of the art piece from the WW2 standpoint. There are 4 separate cams under that cover, Vertical split cases that all have delicate bits in them & have to be taken apart & reassembled in a particular order. Think of it as mechanical time travel. If you can't get a good oil seal and put everything back the way it was without getting new gaskets, You're going to take it off anyway. If so, polish it so it's a beauty, and clear coat it, before reassembly. And it really does look nice polished. You'll be fine. The manual really helps. Hint. If you have to take a mechanically repetitive thing apart, like a cam case, get a cardboard box, & a piece of cardboard that fits inside, and stick every bit that comes out in proper relation to it's original position. thru the cardboard. Then it all goes back where it belongs easier. Why? 'cause lots of the bits are not identical. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
All good advice; the best bit of which is READ THE MANUAL. If you don't want to finish taking it off, clean as best you can & refit using Hylomar jointing compound, it's the dogs b*ll*cks, was developed for Rolls Royce, I am never without a tube. | ||
| Michelangelo |
Hylomar compound eh? Where do you get it? | ||
| Woody1911a1 |
threebond works just as well and is grey in color . you can get it at most cycle shops also sold as yamabond and hondabond if you have a nearby jap bike dealer . Woody | ||
| Just_ziptab |
I think I got Hylomar at Jeggs. Locals don't even know what it is. | ||
| Aptbldr |
Hylomar is sold in SC as a Permatex (brand) product. Hylomar is old-tech and forgiving: its "squeeze out" cannot clog oil galleries as RTV/silcone or adhesive based sealants might. | ||
| Bandm |
 http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_ 85249_0006382647# |
