| Author | Message | ||
     Just_ziptab |
 Here are the dimensions on the rear stand for X1's and the like. 1" square tubing Bottom(rear) cross bar.....13.5" (15"should work for XB's) Forward running leg....10" Kick up piece...3.5" welded at a 55° angle. Upright....13" Hole in upright...1/2".Center line,3/4 inch down. Upright welded at 6.5" forward of the end of the rear cross bar. Forward legs welded to the side ends of the rear cross bar. A gusset could be added,but doesn't seem necessary. I used a piece of 7/16 bar I had laying around to go thru the axle. Works terrific for a rear stand,but useless if you need to remove the wheel. Gotta wonder what the little square lug is for? Lift handle? Certainly doesn't need one. It practically puts the bike up, all by itself..it works that good. If the stand is too tight against the axle,you should be able to easily spread it a bit for a little windage..........  (Message edited by just_ziptab on February 10, 2010) | ||
| Svh |
Some of the stands had 1/2-13 x 4" bolts that went into the axles. Mine the threads are smoothed out. Thanks for putting those up. | ||
| Ourdee |
 | ||
| Ourdee |
 | ||
| Ourdee |
  | ||
| Ourdee |
   | ||
| Ourdee |
   | ||
| Steve_mackay |
I don't have one of these stands, but I'd like to make a few. So I took ourdee's excellent tape measure job, and designed one as close as possible. Anybody want a bill of materials & dimensions?  | ||
| Gunut75 |
Ill take one Steve. Nice work using the tile floor!  Makin' it easy are ya? | ||
| F_skinner |
Steve, I would take one or three. Amazing people on this site. | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
Steve, i would like a copy, Ourdee. thanks, can you tell what the pads are made of? Zip, thanks for starting this tread Bob  | ||
| Steve_mackay |
Pads look like they're made out of teflon. I'll make up some prints late tonight and post up some PDFs. But I'd like ourdee to double check my dimensions before ya'll start making 'em  | ||
| Panhead_dan |
pads are UHMW (UMHW) | ||
| Ourdee |
Look at how the big head rivets are counter sunk in the white unobtanium. They are also notched where they turn the corner on the upward bent foot or toes. The bolt's shafts are .500" Diameter for the first 1.250" from the head. Then are turned down to approximately 15/16 of an inch from there out. It takes the points off the threads. Steve, Great job on the translation. I used to weld bike frames in the kitchen so I could use the tiles to square and measure with. Wife said I couldn't do it at the last 2 houses. I really need to get some tanks and start welding again, it calms me down. Not in the house of course. | ||
| Ourdee |
Don't forget the small piece of steel welded on top the cross bar for stamping your name into. It is located to the left side. | ||
| Ustorque |
I'll take one too!!!! thanks Steve | ||
| Rmcconnell33 |
I'll also take one. Thanks......... | ||
| Panhead_dan |
The plastic pads are not unubtainium. They are a very common material used on conveyors in the food prossessing industry. It can be bent to shape using a little heat. Normal fastening method is a 1/4" flathead machine screw countersunk to a level just below the surface. Cutting is done like with wood. en.wikipedia.org/.../Ultra_high_molecular_weight_p olyethylene | ||
| Xbrfirebolt |
I would like one too Steve. Thank-you | ||
| Steve_mackay |
You can get the "unobtanium" here. http://www.mcmaster.com/#8702k64/=5sw1nb | ||
| Tq_freak |
Steve, think you could send me the .stp file will the BOM? I'll pm you my email | ||
| Damnut |
You can put me on the list. | ||
| Never2late |
In a pinch I've used plastic cutting boards instead of "unobtanium". You can work it with any handtool and purchase is as close as the local grocery store. Great stand design, I'll add it to my list of projects. | ||
| Steve_mackay |
With help from ourdee, I've got the design all finished. But it sounds to me like people think I'm going to make them? No, sorry. I hope I didn't imply that. I figured I'd design one up, for me to make someday, and share the design, complete with detailed prints so any one of you COULD get them done. I'm not a sponsor, and don't really plan to be(I work too much as it is). Which is what it would require to offer these up. But anyways... Here's the design files * 2D DXF(R13 Ascii) * 2D PDF * 2D DWG(R2000) * 3D Step(AP203 and AP214) * 3D Parasolid(R16) http://cid-f8173b745d8dd3e6.skydrive.live.com/brow se.aspx/Buell%20Rear%20Stand | ||
| Ustorque |
Thanks for the info Steve....just what i was lookin for!!!! | ||
| Steve_mackay |
BTW, to finish my design, you'll need the square tubing(obviously). I designed it with 1/8" wall. You'll also need pop-rivets from McMasterCarr Part #97447A155 The "unobtanium" plastic is listed wrong on my bill of materials(part # wise). For the sides, you should get by with 1 piece of McMaster Part#8702K67($3.18 per foot) For the bottom, you can get by with one(and then some!) part#8702K19($.91 a foot), but it's sold in 5' increments! Instead of bolts, I thought these would be more appropriate. http://www.mcmaster.com/#98412a215/=5thgsm | ||
| Just_ziptab |
Good idea on the hitch pins. Maybe add a small chain to them so they don't get misplaced. | ||
| Rmcconnell33 |
Thanks Steve...... | ||
| Svh |
Ourdee's stand is the only one I saw with the plastic on the bottom so I don't know how important those pieces are if someone doesn't want to purchase them. Good work Steve. | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
Steve, Thank you | ||
| Ourdee |
I think my stand came out of the R&D and may not have been used on the line. Thanks Steve, that's a nice bit of work. Much better than I would have done. | ||
| F_skinner |
RD and Steve, Thanks.  |
