| Author | Message | ||
     Wolfridgerider |
After getting home from the "Last Ride to the Factory" I noticed a small problem... Rust coming from the front wheel bearings.  So I placed a order online with Applied Industries for a set of 6005 Koyo's. Took a trip to Auto Zone to rent/borrow a bearing puller and bearing putter in thingys..   Place the bearing puller in the rotor side first like the service manual says and pull that bearing.  flip wheel over and repeat  clean out said hole....  I then used some anti-seize... don't know if you need to, but it couldn't hurt... could it?  Place rotor side bearing in first like the service manual says...  flip wheel and put in the spacer and put in the other bearing, remount and ride...wheelie and put that perma grin back on your face...  and jam! | ||
| Boney95 |
I like it Wolf!!! | ||
| Jimduncan69 |
to hell with the wheel bearings.... that video is what i am talking about! | ||
| Birdy |
Bearings??? what bearings? | ||
| Teddagreek |
Me likey.......  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
the koyo's are less than 30 bucks for the set and Auto Zone letting you use there stuff for free is a smok'n deal. I think I have less than 2 hours in the whole thing. Including the trip to Applied Industries, stop at Auto Zone, the labor and the test ride back to Auto Zone to return the tools. | ||
| Dragonslayer |
Tig O' Bitties  ..........did you say something about bearings? | ||
| Tramp |
You could have saved yourself a LOT of trouble by simply using a heat gun (or a blow-dryer) constantly moving, to heat the alloy around the bearing. After a few minutes it will fall out easily with no drift. Also- anti-seize isn't a great idea for a seated race, you're better off to simply clean the rim alloy with brake parts cleaner before simply dropping a frozen (yes, put it into the freezer for a couple hours before you remove the old bearing) bearing into the heated alloy rim. This is faster, easier and doesn't involve pounding on things. If you don;t go apesiht with the heat level, it will have no negative effect on the temper, either. Incidentally, my front bearings have produced rust for over a decade...it's coming from the outer race, not from the bearings, themselves. rust is normal. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
rust is normal   | ||
| Paint_shaker |
All goes well until the one bearing that desinigrated convienently left the race in... Ask me how I know... | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I know how you know!! LOL... did you get it fixed yet? This was a pretty easy to do so I may start replacing them every 10 or 20 thousand miles or so. I "was" changing my oil every 5000 miles with Amsoil. I think I may drop that down to every 2500 miles given the "temporary" shut down of Buell | ||
| Tramp |
That's overkill for bearing R&R. The rust in the photo is very normal. My original front wheel (which got bent on a pothole in July) has its original 1995 bearings, which worked fine. Try the heat gun interference method, it's a lot easier on your bearings than all of that pounding. It's also the far superior method for engine bearing R&R>...plus its much faster and easier. While you're at it, why not change the oil every 1000 miles with an old-school organic? Your engine bearings will thank you for the higher tenacity of , say HD oil or Spectro V-twin formulation....at such short interval, and infered advantage of synthetic will be diminished anyway.... More frequent changing means fewer particulates in suspension and a higher Ph- both factors that have an effect on engine life and bearing efficacy. | ||
| Chadhargis |
Good write up! We need a sticky on bearing replacement listing the part numbers. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I got to be a master of pressing in and out bearings rebuilding my KDX. Even if you are using a press of some kind, heat and temperature differentials are goodness. The crank was the most interesting. The crank sat in the deep freeze over night, with the bearings. The next morning, the case half went back on the BBQ grill for a while (till water would sizzle). Get gloves on, bring the case half back around to the garage, and the frozen bearing literally just fell right into place. Put the whole thing back on the grill again so the bearing is hot also, bring it back around, and in dropped the frozen crank (had to work quick, and get it right the first time). Once the temperatures stabilized, those cranks and bearings weren't moving *anywhere*. Looks like that press setup worked pretty well also! | ||
| Tramp |
Interference fit is much safer on both the bearings and boss. I do not recommend the 'heating on grille' method, though, as it concentrates too much heat to certain areas while parts are unmated... also- no need to reheat bearing and case together, again, the temp flux is an unnecessary load on the temper of the races.... best to allow the temp. of two metals to stabilize at their own rate. The case needn't get too hot, really- 2 minutes wit a constantly-moving heat gun 6 inches from it is more-than-sufficient....even in the case of actual mag rims (as on many tubers), 2 minutes at 6 inches from the mag. is safe. When you use interference temp, presses are unnecessary...and more work, as well. I first used this method as a kid changing bearings in heavy equipment, then in my british motorcycles as a teen, and I brought this up in my BMW m/c group tech training...to approval from my instructors. In many soft-metal-interfaces, *light* heating is safer than pressing. | ||
| Etennuly |
I agree with the heat method also. The problem with pressing is the wear that you put on the machined surface in the softer wheel. Change them five of six times with the press method can cause enough wear that it may have a problem with holding the outer race. The heat method will cause nearly no wear if done properly. I also believe this is not the proper place for anti-sieze. If anything, after a couple more press fits, you will need a glue in there. Sorry, didn't mean to be critical, ya got'em in and functioning again! Just consider that you pissed me off with that boob thing!  Damnit, now I'm gonna be screwed up in the head for the rest of the day! | ||
| Tramp |
Criticism is far more selfless and helpful than empty praise. I am unsure as to why anyone would use anti-seize in this application, save for avoidance of bimetallic corrosion. As i stated earlier, just use brake cleaner to get the surfaces clear of that liquid wrench(????!?!) etc. Light, MOVING heat (gun, not torch)on the rim and a frozen bearing will keep all surfaces like brand-new over the years. Those bearings go for a LONG time, too. Mine gave me no issues into a quarter of a million miles, which shocked even me. extraneous bearing R&R entailing prying and/or pressing will 'do a number' on the alloy rims. | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Wolf, Got it fixed. We had to weld a piece of rod to the bearing race so we could extract it. We had to do it 3 times as the welded rod kept seperating from the race! We covered the wheel with wet rags. Hopefully we didn't do much heat damage to the wheel. But it is done now!! | ||
| Jramsey |
Run a weld bead around the inside of the race and it will shrink and drop out with gravity. | ||
| Tramp |
Yikes. Next time, just (gun) heat the perimeter alloy evenly. The heat of a spot weld won't do the temper any good at all. You can also dry-ice the old race first, I've resorted to this on many occasions | ||
| Jramsey |
Tramp, you sir evidently know very little about industrial repair technique's and even less about Metallurgy. Besides a skilled welder will have the bearing dropped out long before the wheel hub temp gets anywhere close to that of the hair dryer/ heat gun method. | ||
| Greg_e |
I look at it this way, How much did the bearings cost? Change them when you want to change them. The rust on the ball retainer is a problem with these exposed bearings, the best thing to combat this would be teflon retainers like in many of the expensive high performance bearings that Boca sells. Looks like it might be worth cleaning and lube of the bearings once a season or so. Anyone that has inline skates will understand why I say this. Also I agree, this is not the correct place to use neverseize. In fact you do not want any rotation between the bearing outer race and the wheel or you might be looking for a new wheel. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I just went by the service manual... can't go to far wrong if you go by the book next time I may toss the bearings in the freezer for a few... and try the heat gun. steel wool & penetrating fluid used as a cleaner... I was all out of WD-40.... it was on the work bench and the first thing I grabbed... guess what... it worked I don't need to worry about the bearings moving because of the anti-seize... that booger is in there pretty tight. and yes "booger" is a technical term overall, it was cheap, it was easy and the front wheel didn't come off during the test ride. I'm good to go. thanks for shopping. | ||
| Kurbennett |
OK, Belt change time, finally got the old one off, decided I would replace the rear bearings as well, I have the orange one, 23k miles. Cleaned it up a bit with WD40 and broke out the blow dryer. I worked on one side for about a half hour being sure to not direct the heat on the bearings. Those babies will not budge. Any ideas? Will HD pull the bearings for a reasonable charge? |
