| Author | Message | ||
     Barker |
I striped out the treads on the top of the clutch inspection cover.  It looks clean like I drilled it out! The bolt is fine. How can I repair this? A buddy of mine said to use hilacoil. He sad I can use the same bolt. has anyone out there use helicoil on a a XB primary cover? My badweb search only revealed its use on heads and other parts. I just wanted make sure it was the best way to go to fix the primary cover. Any other advice or work arounds? Any advice/tips or trick on using helicoil? I have never tapped anything (on the bike). | ||
| Swampy |
Helicoil, or Loctite thread restorer. | ||
| Tramp |
that's a very low-torque fasteing point. don't heli it, just use a self threading screw or a tap. run it through once, without the cover in place, and with a tiny dab of grease on the inside end of the hole, and wipe that our after you've threaded it through once, so as to catch the aluminum shards. then replace cover and fasten. note to all: those clutch cover bolts are easily over-torqued due to the convex outer facing of the cover, itself; it creates a spring-tensioner against the fastener heads. use a little splooge (let it set-up a bit)around the heads prior to fastening all the way down, and use only enough torque to seat them, along with a nice, fat o-ring (i hate that redundant expression "o-ring",,,as opposed to what? a "Y" ring?) you'll have no further issues if you splooge and under-torque those interfaces. (Message edited by tramp on November 12, 2006) | ||
| Spiderman |
I have to disagree with you there Trampski. I have heli coiled all 4 of my inspection cover holes and they have outlasted the original threads. They are also able to withstand more torque... | ||
| 1313 |
I have to concur with Spidey. Early in the ownership of my S2 I stripped out one of the clutch cover bolt holes in its primary cover. The heli-coil I installed is in better shape than the threads of the other 3 bolt holes. 1313  | ||
| Tramp |
i can't disagree with youze boys... you're 100% correct! great points.... maybe i should have phrased my method as being the cheesy-on-the-side-of-the-road-and-it'll-last-me-a -few-thousand-miles way.... like most of my repairs to my own duct-tape beauty.....  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Tramp, You are right to a certain extent. I used the "side of the road" method for one of my derby screws. It was either Permatex or Locktite, don't remember which one. It worked for a while then let loose. I picked up a Helicoil kit and did all 4 of them (one of them went "soft" when I last installed it so it needed it anyway) Absolutly no problems since. The kit minus the drill bit ( a 19 if memory serves) was about $20 or so. It included about 8 1/4-20 Helicoils, a special bit and an insertion tool. Well worth it. Brad | ||
| Djkaplan |
"i hate that redundant expression "o-ring" Hot water-heaters use lots of o-rings. | ||
| Bomber |
X-rings, too, tramp! ;-} | ||
| Mainstreamer |
Shouldn't it be cold water heater? Why would you need to heat hot water????  | ||
| Pwnzor |
All this talk of splooging interfaces is really heating my water!  | ||
| Vaneo1 |
I had the same issue with mine. I got it replaced under warranty. However, I would have never found out about the problem if the helicoil didnt come out with my bolt 20,000 mile later. I took it back to the dealership and explained what had happened...anyway, if properly inserted correctly, a helicoil is better than the factory threads.USE LOCTITE | ||
| Barker |
Loctite on the helicoil insert or the bolt? What type of loctite. | ||
| Reepicheep |
LOL! We should be asking how many people *didn't* heli coil one of those things. (For the record, my M2 derby cover was 75% heli-coil when I sold it  ). | ||
| Bomber |
Barker -- loctite the helicoil -- durned near any kind will do -- then, replace the torx head bolts with stainless steel allens (hardware store score) -- | ||
| Tramp |
bluzm2 said: "Tramp, You are right to a certain extent. I used the "side of the road" method for one of my derby screws. It was either Permatex or Locktite, don't remember which one. It worked for a while then let loose. I picked up a Helicoil kit and did all 4 of them (one of them went "soft" when I last installed it so it needed it anyway) Absolutly no problems since. " bluzm2- you didn't readmy post carefully. what I suggested, for roadside repair, did NOT involve splooge, permatex, etc. you comingled the two cited protocols, hence your erroneous 'right to a certain extent' statement. for the record, NONE of my buell's fastener interfaces have ever stripped, likely due to my use of splooge around the heads and my refusal to overtorque the fasteners. on ironheads and shovels ('77-80 were bad metal years) where such stripping had occurred, due to previous owners, I simply used self-threading screw. reading comprehension is half the battle. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Tramp, Me thinks you are the one with the reading issue...  "maybe i should have phrased my method as being the cheesy-on-the-side-of-the-road-and-it'll-last-me-a -few-thousand-miles way.... " How else was I suppose to take it? I do know what you mean! So, how many miles on the rat S2 now? It's gotta be one of the highest mileage specimens around. Brad | ||
| Tramp |
now i remember why i got tired of this board..... the self-threading fastener sentence pertained to roadside repair. the spooge sentence pertains to any/all inspection cover replacements, regardless of stripping issues...hence the preamble: "note to all " | ||
| Garyl |
(i hate that redundant expression "o-ring",,,as opposed to what? a "Y" ring?) There is a seal which is widely used in the automotive industry which is known as a D-ring. It refers to the cross sectional shape of the seal. | ||
| Sanchez |
Has anyone helicoiled the push rod cover retainer collar bolts? One of mine is stripped and leaking a bit of oil. |
