| Author | Message | ||
     Vividlucidity |
i've read several things about oil here, but should someone want to continue to use dino oil (old school), will any name brand 20w-50 work? and where exactly is the drain plug? | ||
| Tramp |
If you stick with organic oil, as I have for over 216 thousand miles in my S2, do NOT simply use any brand-name lube. Use Harley Davidson oil, Spectro oils blended for use with Harley davidson engines, or Rotella Diesel oil. These roller, as opposed to journal bearing mills really like extra moly and/or sulfurs for tenacity to the rollers. As to synthetics, ask most other Buellers. | ||
| Bomber |
Synth apparently survives better when hot, and CAN extended the service life of the oil -- Dino, changed often (oh, like, say, the factory recommendations) will do just as well for most riders in most conditions (witness Tramp's experience, for instance) big mistake, I believe, to just pick any 20w-50 oil -- the weight of the oil is oil part of the story -- see Tramp's post, above, or the manuals from the factory for good replacements for HD-branded oil lastly, ignore the religious wars that will srping up around your oil post -- give it a week or two to calm down, then post a question regarding contact patches -- everyone likes fireworks, don't they? | ||
| Jaimec |
Regarding Spectro Oils for Harley Davidson engines: Many years ago, Spectro came out with "Golden American" especially formulated for air cooled V-Twin engines. I asked the representative what was the difference between "Golden American" and "Golden Spectro." He looked at me for a second and asked me if I was a dealer. I told him I did work for a dealership (at the time I did). He then said "Because Harley riders like buying things in black and orange containers." That was the only difference (according to him) between "Golden American" and "Golden Spectro." Moichandizing! | ||
| Pwnzor |
I'm with Tramp on this. I'm going to use the HD Syn-3 forever. I'm not an expert but everyone I've spoken to personally has said pretty much the same thing. "Wellllll.... you could TRY another oil brand, BUT....." You get the picture. Drain plug? On the bottom of the oil tank, just a guess. (Message edited by pwnzor on August 30, 2006) | ||
| Brucelee |
Red Line 20W-50 in my XB9S | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
Amsoil 20-50 synthetic in oil/trans for about 10k miles | ||
| Blake |
Tramp, Extra sulfurs in engine oil?  Please explain. What is "moly", and why do roller bearings like it, and how do we know that H-D or the other oils you recommend have more of it than other name brand 20W50 grade conventional oils? Received my Lubrication-Tips newsletter today. They posed the following question: Question: What is the most destructive type of chemical reaction affecting oils in service? Anyone care to guess? | ||
| Pwnzor |
Ummm... condensation? | ||
| Blake |
Vivid, My answer to your question is that I don't know. Buell and H-D recommend a diesel-rated engine oil. I'm not sure why. Rumor is that it resists foaming better than non-diesel rated oils. I'm really not sure though. | ||
| Pwnzor |
If it's good enough for a Caterpillar 14C then it's good enough for Buell I guess. | ||
| Court |
I'd bet, with absolutely no basis, that if you use any decent oil meeting the manufacturers recommendations that no civilian rider is ever going to be able to do anything to a motorcycle to induce damage that another oil would have prevented. Use good oil Stick to recommendations Change frequently Ditto the filter | ||
| Jaimec |
Automobile engine oils have less zinc and moly in them because those metals would foul up catalytic converters. Buell is playing it safe by making sure those anti-wear ingredients are present in any oil you use. On the other hand, BMW has had catalytic converters in their bikes for YEARS and yet still recommend oils formulated for motorcycles, not automobiles. Hmmmmm... and their engines are far more automotive in design than most other manufacturers too... | ||
| Fullpower |
:Question: What is the most destructive type of chemical reaction affecting oils in service: Answer: Oxidation | ||
| Court |
Question: What is the most destructive type of chemical reaction affecting oils in service Answer: "Slipping on spilt?" | ||
| Oldog |
Molibdinum-disulfide (SP), an extreme pressure additive with sulpher commonly used in greases and gear box oils. Castrol gtx was run in my 79 suzuki for its entire life in my hands and 3 psi compression loss in almost 60k miles, I documented comp readings from new. as Court asserted good grade auto oil with the diesel rating will be ok, I think that trampo's secret is REGULAR changes (Message edited by ol-dog on August 30, 2006) | ||
| Debueller |
Like Fullpower said, oxidation | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Heat????? | ||
| Blake |
I tend to agree with Court, but I do like the added capability/protection that synthetic oil provides. "Automobile engine oils have less zinc and moly in them because those metals would foul up catalytic converters." Clarification: Only automobile engine oils carrying the "fuel conserving" logo are required to contain less of those additive compounds. Anything 10W40 or higher grade automotive engine oil is not a fuel conserving engine oil and so is not subject to the lower allowed levels of anti-wear compounds. Thus most all 20W50 automotive oils do indeed contain the extra amounts of anti-wear additives. Dean got it right, "oxydation" is the most harmful chemical reaction happening to engine oil. Which reminds me, does anyone recall the last quiz on oil, the one about the benefits of synthetic oil? Here's a recap of that: QUESTION: Name four possible benefits of using synthetic base oil as a lubricant. Here's were it gets really interesting: QUESTION: Name common causes of lubricant oxidation. Thing is that if you change your oil as most do, the amount of accumulated degradation is likely not problematic. I use synthetic oil to afford longer intervals between oil changes. It is almost universally used in racing machines too. All the super high dollar heavy equipment I've ever seen has used synthetic oil as well. And they don't change it until the lab analysis shows a need to do so. Warning! Nerd alert!... How cool would it be to have a simple little diagnostic kit that would tell you the integrity of your engine's oil, maybe someday that will even be built into the engine itself?  Spilt oil is probably even more dangerous, but isn't that a mechanical reaction, not a chemical one?  | ||
| Slowride |
Blake, Concerning your nerd alert! My girls car (2006 Colbalt) has an engine oil life meter (digital) built into the information display unit. The percentage drops based on mileage and time per the manual. I am sure this is not as indepth as you were going with this kit theory, but I would say it is a starting point. | ||
| Whodom |
How cool would it be to have a simple little diagnostic kit that would tell you the integrity of your engine's oil, maybe someday that will even be built into the engine itself? I saw an article in a construction trade magazine a couple of years back on the latest generation of diesel truck engines. They have a fresh oil reservoir and an on-board real-time oil analysis system. As the oil approaches the limit for being too dirty, it slowly meters this oil into the fuel injection system where it is burned and adds replacement oil from the fresh oil reservoir. Periodic filter replacement is still required, but IIRC full oil changes aren't normally required; just keep the reservoir topped off. | ||
| Sportsman |
I know NOTHING about what's in oil. But a few years back at Summit point pitted next to a friend, he comes in after a practice and says something isn't right it's just not pulling down the straight the way it should. Goes out for a second practice, comes in and says the same thing. It's noticed the bike seems awfully hot. Turns out the oil pump gear is sheared off. 2, screaming 20 minute practices with no oil moving and it didn't blow itself into oblivion. 15/50 Mobil 1 is aparently really, really, good stuff. | ||
| Tim |
"Where exactly is the drain plug?" Your profile show you have a blast. There two hoses with plugs, down on the left side by the swingarm. I have reasets. If I remember corectly they may have originally been tucked behind the bracket for the footpegs. One drains the oil. The other is a drain for pcv valve to drain out any accumulation of oil and water also known by the technical term "spooge". Just a reminder the tranny has its own lubrication system. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My new Honda Fit has an oil life indicator too. | ||
| Court |
By the way . . . I play it safe and change the Mobil 1 5W-20 in the truck every 3,000 miles. I understand it's overkill but it costs less than a 1/2 tank of fuel and the 10 year old truck I just sold was in perfect condition, tight as new, at 161,000. | ||
| Bomber |
Oil Life indicataors in the newer cars and truck really do no measure anything directly related to the oil -- they measure a combination of miles, operating temps, speeds, and like that, and then infer the oil condition from that data -- this is a huge step forward in the apparent goal of folks being able to completely ignore their cars, but does not directly say a thing about the condition of the oil I change the oil at or before the factory reqs -- 6 year old truck, 140K miles | ||
| Mb182 |
I have used Amsoil in three bikes with temp dip sticks.. All three showed a temperature drop at normal operation of 12-15F. less friction = less heat.. I run the 20/50 in the motor.. Don't plan to change for the formula+ in the tranny.. those that have really showed no improvment in shifting. Oil changes are much more important than the oil.. Have have run several engines over 150K with no issues using dino oil. There are a lot of good oils out there use what makes you happy MB | ||
| Pammy |
He then said "Because Harley riders like buying things in black and orange containers." That was the only difference (according to him) between "Golden American" and "Golden Spectro." That is exactly right. Cut Golden Spectro is an excellent product, none the less. As long as you are dilligent in your oil changing practices. You shouldn't have any major issues. I use Amsoil products in all my vehicles. Mainly because of the quietening, less heat due to increased lubricity, which also causes better fuel economy. Great stuff, that Amsoil. AND you can have it delivered right to your home. If anyone wants to become a dealer or get it at a greatly reduced price. Please call or e-mail me. www.cycle-rama.com has my e-mail and phone number. | ||
| Pammy |
Oh and about synthetic oils. If you already are using it...no big deal. If you have always used 'dino' oils and you have a lot of miles, you might want to check your bike for leaks or any 'weeping'. Synthetic oil won't CAUSE a leak but it will exacerbate any existing issues. edited for spelling (Message edited by pammy on August 31, 2006) (Message edited by pammy on August 31, 2006) | ||
| Court |
>>>exasperate Ya gotta love these folks' sense of humor! |
