| Author | Message | ||
     Darthane |
Cross-posted (sorry, Blake!), since it occurred to me that this would be the same procedure regardless of tuber/XB... I'm pretty comfortable working on my bikes now, but this is beyond anything I've done before. Thus far I've got gotten the engine rotated down (for something unrelated - replacing exhaust seals) and the primary cover off, and now I'm stymied at how to actually remove the primary chain. According to the manual, I need to remove the primary drive and clutch assembly as one, so I've got some questions. I do not have any of the specialized tools for removing a clutch drum safely. 1) Is there any other way to accomplish this, or do I really need those tools? 2) What parts do I need to replace (and thus order) as a part of this process? Snap rings, retainers, etc. 3) Do I need an impact wrench to loosen the primary drive? How do you lock the gears to keep it from turning with the wrench? Any tips, tricks, and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Clutch does not have to be dis-assembled,take it off as a unit.IIRC clutch nut is l/h threads. You can make a "locking bar" from a section of aluminum or nylon so it goes between the teeth of the front engine sprocket and the clutch hub then just need a bit of muscle. | ||
| Bomber |
do NOT use an impact gun -- you'll very likely shake the magnets loose from the rotor (though there are those who have managed to use a gun and not suffer any loose magnets) | ||
| Phonemanjustin |
I have the tools to do this for a tuber if you need to borrow them. | ||
| Court |
Bomber: I found I had a screw loose, so I let someone else do it. Wisdom from age, me thinks. | ||
| Darthane |
Clutch nuts, left hand...what about the primary sprocket nut? I'll use good old elbow grease (and a breaker bar, of course...) for them and forego the impact wrench. Sounds like all I really need is a good way to lock the sprockets - this makes me happy. I'll ask my uncle first since he's right down the road from me. If not I might take you up on that offer, Justin, at least as far as a locking bar is concerned. Thank you all...have I mentioned lately how great this place is? Damn, I missed it... | ||
| Road_thing |
Clutch nuts, left hand Excellent advice, leaves your right hand free! rt | ||
| Glitch |
 | ||
| Darthane |
O_o Treasure those moments, I'm usually quite good at weeding out double entendres from my posts.  | ||
| Xb9 |
 That's too funny! | ||
| Darthane |
Oy...two weeks later and still stymied. Justin's kind enough to give me some help on the tool front. =D Finished up the exhaust gasket replacement yesterday. I don't think it was the gasket, actually - after getting the whole thing apart I discovered my O2 sensor was basically just sitting in the boss. O_o I torqued it down again and replaced the gaskets for good measure, but this process came with it's own set of 'grr!'s. Taking off one of the front exhaust nuts backed the stud right out of the head, so now it needs to be replaced, and one of the bolts holding the V-bracket to my frame was stripped and had to be drilled out, which thankfully I managed to do without damaging the threads. ...now if I could just get the damned primary chain off. Here's hoping it comes off tonight. | ||
| Glitch |
I discovered my O2 sensor was basically just sitting in the boss. I've seen this happen a couple of times now. So far only on '03s. Here's hoping it comes off tonight. Good luck! Keep us up to date, on how everything goes, and hopefully you'll find no more surprises! Oh and I'm on my 4th belt. When this one lets go, I'm buying the new belt system... | ||
| Tramp |
don't use air-impact tools anywhere on your motorcycle... I had a DSM who used to hang up on service managers who called in ( to BMWNA/ motorcycle group)to report service issues, when he'd hear an air-impact gun in the background. "The moment I hear pneumatic impact, that department issue has lost factory support" essentially, almost every interface on your machine either involves a soft alloy as part of the fastening equation, or as a carrier/housing. that being the case, conservatively-applied, constantly-moving heat should always effect ample expansion of any female fastener, without the jarring and shearing which air-impact ...er...impacts. | ||
| Darthane |
I won't be using an impact gun on it, though calculating the length of the breaker bar I'll need considering the break force of a ~250 ft/lbs never-been-touched-before fastener compared to my 145lbs soaking wet weight will be fun. LOL...I need to see if anyone in the family has a torque wrench that even goes that high - my biggest one tops out at 160ft/lbs. I followed procedure on the O2 sensor when I put it in (I had replaced my header with a Jet-Hot coated one when I came home from Japan), using anti-sieze on it. Considering what a pain in the ass that thing is to get to, I should have put red thread locker on it this time. 4 belts, Glitch? I keep telling you, you need to sweet-talk them and they'll last forever. Stop saving all that lovin' for your wife! (Message edited by darthane on July 10, 2006) | ||
| Glitch |
Are you going with a stock stator, or an after market one? How many miles did you get before the stator went out? I had 19 or 20 thousand went mine died. At least I didn't "break" the 3rd one. I stripped about four teeth out of it on the dyno-drags. Still rode home, even had it in the mountains, didn't even know the teeth were gone 'til I changed tires. The belts for the '03 bikes have gotten much better. | ||
| Darthane |
Stock, though I've no idea if it's the exact same one that was in the bike of if they've been updated. I trust Daves to get me what I needed. I'm at a little over 19K - you're the third person I've heard of that had it go right around that point. I'm going to be switching to either Red Line 20W50 or M1 20W50 in the tranny when I get it all back together. I really enjoyed reading the discussion in the Knowledge Vault on the subject of 75W90 synth in the tranny and possible adverse effects on exposed copper. I still have my original belt in the box that my updated one came in when I replaced it at 15K. Looks like I could get another 15K out of it easily. | ||
| Tramp |
what did HD change about the staors, anyway? I'm STILL running my factory stator..... | ||
| Glitch |
I really enjoyed reading the discussion in the Knowledge Vault on the subject of 75W90 synth in the tranny and possible adverse effects on exposed copper. I'm at 45thousand miles now and I still use Mobil1 75W90. what did HD change about the staors, anyway? I don't think anything has changed. | ||
| Darthane |
As are many other people, Glitch, but while I like what the 75W90 did for shifting, if I can get a similar result in terms of shift smoothness from a non-GL5 lube, I will. | ||
| Tramp |
yep- i'm over 215,000 miles and still use old-fashioned sport-trans oil....my stator's original, as well, so their vendor had to change something....(?!?!??!) | ||
| Bomber |
the stator looks the same, but the new rotor I put in a couple weeks ago has "DON'T USE AN IMPACT HAMMER, IDJIT!" or something close to that stamped in the steel -- | ||
| Darthane |
LOL...yeah, it has "NO SHARP BLOWS" stamped in the metal. ...if I don't get it off soon I'm going to give it a sharp blow, all right... | ||
| Newfie_buell |
I used an electric impact gun for removal and all appears to be well - still. That was about 25,000km ago. I'll go out this afternoon and it will blow up-just watch. | ||
| Darthane |
Shoulda just kept your mouth [fingers?] shut, Bill. It's all over, now. | ||
| Darthane |
Well, with many thanks to Phonemanjustin for dropping off an appropriate hunk of metal to lock the sprockets together, as well as giving me a nudge in the right direction as far as removing the clutch pack...TADA!    Yeah, I'd say it was the stator. Two of the three wires were corroded completely through. The insulation looks as though something was pressing on it (perhaps the edge of the rotor assembly?), which eventually wore through the insulation, exposing the copper and either grounding it and causing excessive current flow, burning the wires up, or allowed other elements to go to work on the [now] exposed copper. Both sprockets slid off effortlessly once I got the locking bar in place and spun the nuts off...not sure where I'm gonna get a big enough torque wrench to put the damned thing back on. O_O One last question - in order to get the old stator out I had to depin the connection. Foolishly thinking that the new one would have a connector on it that I could depin and label before feeding the wires through, I didn't label which ones went to which pin on the connector. I'm assuming it doesn't matter, since none of them are identified in any way, but I have to ask - does it? The grommet has what appears to be a '1' on it, from which I could extrapolate a pinout, but that may just be fantasy on my part. I'll be putting it all back together tomorrow and testing it out, this is the last thing I need to know. Thanks again to everyone that gave me suggestions (and tools!). | ||
| Diablobrian |
output from the stator doesn't matter, (as long as they all 3 have 14vac output with motor running IIRC on the voltage) anyway it's ac output so any which way will work. | ||
| Darthane |
Thanks, Brian. That's what I figured, just wanted to confirm. | ||
| Skully |
Brian, Your stator failed in the same manner that mine did. Check this out: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=6817&post=531277#POST 531277 The new stator had much larger diameter windings. BTW, mine failed at approximately 20,000 miles. Keith | ||
| Darthane |
I'll have to check the part number of the stator that Dave sent me. I would assume it's the newest version, as Daves is on top of things like that. It hasn't been installed yet so I'll take a peek this evening. As Reepicheep noted in your thread, you DON'T need the compression tool. I was laboring under the same assumption because the layout of the process to remove the clutch in the service manual is rather poorly thought out. They actually have the steps involved in disassembling the clutch BEFORE removing it (well, I suppose it IS actually logical, because you have to have the clutch on the bike to compress the diaphragm, but still). When Justin came by and dropped off a hunk of aluminum to use to lock my sprockets together, he pointed out that you can get to the snap ring that holds the clutch adjustment screw in without removing anything else first. -=smacks forehead=- I popped that out, took the nut off and the whole damned thing slid out no problem. Did you do anything special when installing your new stator? I've read of people using high-temp silicone to 'glue' the wires in place behind the little plate. I don't really think that's necessary as the plate itself did not appear to have wore on the wire insulation at all in 19K miles. | ||
| Skully |
No, I didn't do anything special when I installed the new one. Hope I don't regret that... |
