| Author | Message | ||
     Whodom |
I just finished changing the fork oil in my S3. Got the right side together with no problem, but when I went to put the left side together, I wasn't sure which way the spring went in. Checked the shop manual, and it says to install it with the "thin taper at top". The accompanying photo is marked with lines at coil #1 and coil #7 implying that the coils are more closely spaced at one end of the spring than the other. I eye-balled the spring looking for the "thin taper" and couldn't tell any difference, so I got out my ruler. I measured this freaking spring in every possible way: the coil-to-coil spacing is the same, the wire diameter is uniform, the wound diameter is uniform. As near as I can tell (and I checked pretty dang closely) this spring is perfectly symmetrical- i.e.- there ain't no top or bottom, in which case the shop manual is wrong. I just finished reassembling the fork and I'm getting ready to reinstall them. If someone knows something I missed, I'd appreciate hearing from you ASAP. Thanks! | ||
| Tramp |
the 'thin taper' to which they're referring is the ending of the coil, where the actual steel is flattened down in the final 1/2" or so, for flush mounting. | ||
| Whodom |
Tramp, as near as I could tell, both ends of the spring were perfectly symmetrical in that regard too. I tried the "spring seat stopper" in both ends of the spring and it fit equally well in either end. | ||
| Tramp |
that being the case, relax and drop 'em in. I think i recall (I know bad word around S2s and S3s...) some cold-fucion mumbo-jumbo about a spring upgrade that came in later S3s. Court would sure's hell know. Also, many aftermarket upgrade springs lacked that intentional asymmetry...sound like you're in the clear | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Where can you get a set of heavier springs? I'm not a very small fella and they are a tad bit soft. | ||
| Whodom |
Tramp, Thanks for the info. I just wanted some kind of sanity check that I wasn't overlooking something. At any rate, the questionable leg went together just like the other leg (which I carefully maintained the spring orientation on between removal and reinstall), so I think I'm OK. BTW, the bike has ~19,000 miles on it, and as far as I know, had the original fork oil (from 2000). When I drained it, it didn't seem to be "funky" at all. I was expecting some crude oil looking sludge to come out. At any rate, the forks are filled with fresh Harley Type E fork oil now and back on the bike. | ||
| Tbolt_pilot |
Whodom, How hard of a job is it to tear down the S3 forks. Mine developed a leak in the right lower seal and every morning I have a little red puddle in the wheel. I haven't been riding it this way. Just want to know if is something I should tackle or not. Are there special fork tools involved? I'm VERY capable, I've just never been into a fork before. Thanks Dave | ||
| Whodom |
Dave, Changing the fork oil wasn't a bad job at all; I'd think changing the seals would only be slightly more complicated. You can disassemble the forks without the specialized tools called out in the shop manual. The spring is relatively light and can be compressed enough by hand to remove the clip ("spring seat stopper") that retains it in place. I'm sure the factory tool would make it easier but it really wasn't that hard to remove or replace. I've replaced the fork seals on my 1983 Honda VT500FT Ascot and from what I see, the S3 probably wouldn't be any more difficult. Fork seals can be driven into place with a piece of PVC pipe of the appropriate size. Check the KV; there are at least a couple of threads on the subject. Hugh | ||
| Tramp |
whodom- i finally did my fork oil at the 180-185k mark. the oil looked horrible, but the seals are fine. i thought i blew a seal, but it turns out he was a boatswain's mate. | ||
| Road_thing |
That's "bos'un", ya lubber... rt | ||
| Bomber |
tearing those forks down is pretty easy, and an open mind at the hardware store will allow you to make a couple of field expediant tools for seal R&R (hush up, Thang ;-} ) heaveri springs are available, for sure, from Traxxion, and likely many others -- not like the forks are rare or specific to Buells -- I'm runnin 1.1KG springs, and I think you and I make similar inroads on the plimsol line | ||
| Tbolt_pilot |
Thanks for the info guys! I think I might attempt it since I am about to foray into some custom work on the bike anyway. I might as well start now. Now...about a service manual. I have heard hints of it online and downloadable somwhere...or does someone have a paper one that they would like to part with for a '98 S3. Oh, how bout parts? Did you get them directly from the fork manf? Aren't they Showa's? I gotta look at the owners manual again. Thanx again! Dave | ||
| Whodom |
Dave, You can get a shop manual from Daves or occasionally you can find one cheap on ebay. It's a good idea to get a parts book too. Sometimes the parts book provides a clearer illustration of how the pieces go together than the shop manual does. | ||
| Sleez |
get the pro series springs if they are available still, cheap and work great! | ||
| Slaughter |
You can get springs from any one of a number of suppliers. If you can't see any sign that it's a dual-rate spring (different pitch or diameter) - you might already have a set of aftermarket springs. Are you the orignal owner? Do you know what the spring rate is that you have? | ||
| Tbolt_pilot |
I am not the original owner but I knew the orig very well. I'm pretty sure they are still the factory springs. I am having a little trouble locating replacement parts....ie; new seals and such. Where can I get them? Hadn't thought about the pro series springs, I'll check into em. Thanx | ||
| Sleez |
i got my last set and all the seals from Daves | ||
| Slaughter |
I know Max at Traxxion Dynamics can put together valves, seals and springs. The fork tubes are common enough diameter to have a number of choices if Dave can't help you out. |
