| Author |
Message |
    
Darthane
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 12, 2006 - 07:55 am: | 
|
Nor did I. As I said, there was zero evidence of any wear and tear on the wiring from that little retention plate, so I wasn't worried about it. When you get the whole assembly in place and torqued down, those wires don't want to move at all, anyway.
I checked the stator P/N that Daves sent me. The date on the box was 6/6/06, yet it was an "A" P/N. Not sure if it was a completely new part number or the same one that was in it before. I'm going to cross-check it against my parts catalogue this evening when I finish up working on it. I got it 'together enough' to turn it on and verify that I had 13V+ across my battery, so the new one appears to have fixed my ills. I need to get the exhaust and rear wheel back on, give it a really good cleaning since there's 75W90 all over the damned thing, and he'll be good to go for the ride to work tomorrow. =D
Blake, if you're reading this, there IS exposed copper on a brand-spanking new stator. I recall that being one of your counter-arguments in the big Mobil 1 75W90 debate that was raging in the KV. Where the windings are crimped together with the wires - both the tips of the windings and the wires themselves are bare at that point and exposed to the interior of the primary. They would be coated in whatever lubricant you put in the primary in short order.
...not saying that's what caused my stator failure - I'll likely never know that for sure...but I put M1 synth 20W50 in my primary last night instead.  The bottles of those even specifically state that they're for use in the crankcase, transmission, and wet-clutch primaries of V-twins. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 12, 2006 - 11:24 pm: |
|
They may look like bare copper but in fact may be coated with varnish.
Sometimes it's very tough to tell as it's clear. |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Thursday, July 13, 2006 - 01:20 am: |
|
I will always bond the wires down behind the plate on an XL based engine, as the plate only keeps the wires out of the rotor, but doesn't prevent any wire movement at all. It isn't because of wear of the wires on the plate, it's because it removes more relative movement between the fairly flexible stranded wires in the feed wires and the 100% rigid wires in the stator windings. My experience has been that they alway fail at that connection, and I think it is because of that relative movement.
It sure appears that relative movement is substantially reduced on the XB design. But if I was doing the job on my bike, I'd still pot the wires in there. Heck I'd probably pot the whole connection with the same stuff. I figure it can't hurt, and it may help, and it isn't hard to do.
Al |
Darthane
| | Posted on Thursday, July 13, 2006 - 08:11 am: |
|
Al, shush! Leave me my peace of mind at least for the rest of the season. |
Bomber
| | Posted on Thursday, July 13, 2006 - 09:41 am: |
|
Dart -- I also potted the wahrs in my new stator, and broke the edge on the retaining plate -- but I'm sure that, in doing so, I've incurred horrble karma, bad joo joo, and I'll break out in scabbies any day now -- I think you did the right thing! |
Darthane
| | Posted on Thursday, July 13, 2006 - 12:41 pm: |
|
The Buell gods will strike you down, Bomber, mark my words. |
Bomber
| | Posted on Thursday, July 13, 2006 - 03:04 pm: |
|
That is an accurate statement, sir --
they, however, will have to get in line (bigger grin) |
Darthane
| | Posted on Friday, July 14, 2006 - 08:18 am: |
|
LOL...well, I finally finished buttoning him up last night and took him for a shake-down ride. Clutch needs a little bit of adjusting (I can NEVER get it right the first time after having the cover off) but it's functional. No leaks, squeaks, or rattles, and the battery's charging.
Gave him a really thorough cleaning last night to make sure I got all the oil off before riding to spot leaks easier. I'll have to take pictures when I get home this afternoon and post them, I've added some bits and bobs since my profile picture was taken.
Again, thanks to everyone that gave me a hand with it! |
Bomber
| | Posted on Friday, July 14, 2006 - 09:27 am: |
|
Dart -- thanks for the backup -- I, too, cannot seem to get the clutch happy on the first try -- thought it was just me, and kept it as a dark, shaemful secret -- I feel so much better now!
"Hi, my name is bomber and I'm a clutch adjustment malafactor"
"Hi, bomber!" |
Darthane
| | Posted on Friday, July 14, 2006 - 12:50 pm: |
|
In preparation, I was even extremely meticulous in documenting and marking all the clutch pieces so that I could get it back together exactly how it was.
...didn't help. Next time I won't bother even trying, and watch it be perfect from the get-go. |
Darthane
| | Posted on Monday, July 17, 2006 - 09:46 pm: |
|
 |
Kevinfromwebb
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 18, 2006 - 10:12 pm: |
|
Very Interesting posts... My stator and regulator were replaced last May at about 13.5k miles under warranty... Well, the charging system went out again this weekend. It's got about 24.5k miles now... I took it to the shop monday as I've got the extended warranty, we'll see what needs to be replaced... I still love my Buell but this is a bit frustrating and makes me a bit leary of it's dependability...
Kevin |
Diablobrian
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 18, 2006 - 11:23 pm: |
|
What mirrors are you using on the firebolt?
and how well do you like them? |
Darthane
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 08:17 am: |
|
LOL...I was waiting for someone to ask that...because I can't remember.
They came from a company in Germany, IIRC. I'm pretty sure I had posted the information regarding them back when I first got them, but this was a couple of years ago now. I'll see if I can dig it up again.
Aha! They are made (or were, at least) by a company called RRC, which is indeed German. I got them through a company called Bike Hospital, who was a dealer for them in the Netherlands at the time.
As for how I like them - looks-wise I adore them, they are worlds better aesthetically than the stockers, and a good chunk lighter as well. As for functionality, they are about the same. My bike is a 2003, so I had the shorter-stalk mirrors to begin with. I never had the complaints regarding them that others have, likely because I'm a skinny little guy so I can actually see past myself in them just fine. |
Darthane
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 01:18 pm: |
|
http://www.r-r-customizing.de/seiten/shop_eng/index.html
There ya go, if you care to browse a bit.
I like their selection of XB*S mirrors more. |
Kevinfromwebb
| | Posted on Sunday, July 23, 2006 - 08:20 pm: |
|
Well, it's a new stator and regulator for me, again... I mentioned to the shop (just the guy at the desk,while on the phone, not the mechanic) about asking the mechanic to put some sealant where the 'wires go thru the gap or slot'??? I don't know if that was what happened but not having taken it apart myself how would I describe it (where yall are putting the sealant) to the mechanic if I talk to him??? And, is there an updated stator part number??? What's updated???
Thanks for the help, it'll probalby be ready tuesday or wednesday...
This extended warranty is paying for itself...
Kevin |
Henrik
| | Posted on Sunday, July 23, 2006 - 09:23 pm: |
|
A quick search in the KV produced this:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=506196#POST 506196
Henrik |
Kevinfromwebb
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 07:08 am: |
|
Thanks Henrik...
Kevin |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 08:40 am: |
|
Kevin,
Do you get you old part back on work like that? Probably not if it is warranty work I guess. If you can look at it a short on the two wires about an inch from the stator would be a short at the plate the wires run under.
I took that plate off and gently curved the edges up and smoothed them with a file when I had my M2. I also put a wrap of rubber insulation (stripped from a piece of electrical cord) around the two wires and put a small dab of non-hardening Permatex behind that to hold the rubber in place. It did not clamp the wires as much as just wrapped and protected them.
I've sold the M2, don't know if it makes a difference or how long it will last, it held for 4,000 miles.
Jack |
Kevinfromwebb
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 05:38 pm: |
|
Thanks Jack... I don't know if I"ll get the parts but I'm going to try to look at them or at least talk to the tech and ask where they did short... I should pick the bike up tomorrow or thursday...
Kevin |
M1combat
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 06:14 pm: |
|
How long/wide/thick should the primary locking tool be? I'll be making one for my own stator replacement this weekend... |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 08:21 pm: |
|
The length is 4-1/8", 4" will work too I think. The width is a nominal value, there is about an inch or less or bearing area but the bar can be much wider.
Send me a mailing address to jacker at midmaine dot com and I'll send you a free fibreglas one.
Jack |
Henrik
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 10:13 pm: |
|
Kevin; you're welcome. Glad you're getting it fixed.
Henrik |
Kevinfromwebb
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 26, 2006 - 08:35 pm: |
|
Got my bike back today... I talked to the tech and he really seemed to know what he was doing. He said that every other winding was shorted. He said that the wires were okay under the 'plate'. He mentioned that you needed to leave a bit of slack for the wires when you ran them under the plate and to make sure there wasn't any binding or twisting there...
I asked about the undated stator and he said it was where the wires are attached to the stator. They used to be just soldered but now there is some kind of connector or bracket there to keep it from bending or breaking...
Now if it wasn't a chance of rain I'd be riding tomorrow... Maybe I won't work saturday... 
Kevin |
M1combat
| | Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 12:07 pm: |
|
I looked through my service manual and didn't see it (I normally dont )...
Can anyone tell me what size the nuts are for the primary and the clutch? Thanks in advance. |
Darthane
| | Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 12:44 pm: |
|
One is 1 1/8", the other is 1 3/16", IIRC. I lucked out - for one reason or another I happened to have both already, even though they weren't part of the set I bought. O_o |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 12:57 pm: |
|
If you check the local auto parts place they may have a 30mm W153 (black oxide, hardened for impact wrench use) extended reach six point socket that is used on GM front wheel drive cars. That is perfect for the clutch nut and I think it only cost about $8 or so.
For the record, 30mm is only about .005" smaller than 1-3/16".
Is it the clutch nut that is a LEFT HAND THREAD? I think it is.
Jack} |
Darthane
| | Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 01:10 pm: |
|
Yes, clutch nut is left heand thread. Primary is right hand thread. |
M1combat
| | Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 07:59 pm: |
|
To quote the inimitable Court...
"Clutch nuts... Left hand." |
Darthane
| | Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 10:37 am: |
|
LOL...actually that was me, quoted for comedic effect by the incomparable Road Thing. |
M1combat
| | Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 11:38 am: |
|
Dang... One of these days I'll be less confused . |
|
