Author |
Message |
Superhilti
| Posted on Friday, June 30, 2006 - 11:52 am: |
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I just put a new battery in my 2000 cyclone and after a week it will not start any ideas where to start? |
99buellx1
| Posted on Friday, June 30, 2006 - 12:07 pm: |
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Battery cable connections. |
Tramp
| Posted on Friday, June 30, 2006 - 12:10 pm: |
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disconnect, recharge batt., reconnect pos., then connect neg. to a voltmeter, and touch other end of voltmeter to frame ground. see any voltage at all? more than .5? If you do, you need to start disconnecting components until the draw disappears. when it does, you'll have found your faulty component/circuit. (Message edited by tramp on June 30, 2006) |
Sleez
| Posted on Friday, June 30, 2006 - 01:42 pm: |
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here are some basic techniques; http://www.aa1car.com/library/tselec.htm |
Superhilti
| Posted on Friday, June 30, 2006 - 02:19 pm: |
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You guys are a big help I'll start trying somethings today Thanks |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Friday, June 30, 2006 - 10:45 pm: |
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You can buy a 1.5 Amp battery tender at Wal-Mart for less than $20. That should recharge a dead battery in 12-15 hours or so, they have an indicator to show when the battery is charged. A battery tender is a great thing to have, especially if you store the bike through the winter months. If you have a meter, when the battery shows about 12.5 Volts (battery charger not connected) the battery is fully charged. If it does not get to that, you probably have a dead battery or bad battery tender. If it will start, the Voltage across the battery posts should go up to about 14.5 Volts (the normal charging voltage) with the engine running at fast idle. If that does not happen, you have either a bad voltage regulator or bad alternator. Those can be tested with a meter, the procedures are in the KV. The voltage regulator on my 2000 M2 died at a little over 2100 miles. The replacemment was still going when I sold the bike at 6,000 miles. Jack |
Superhilti
| Posted on Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 11:52 am: |
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Alright I put a tender on it and it charged the battery up. when I test the volts with the engine off it is around 12.7-13.0 when I start the engine and let it idle high it stays in the low 12's no charging going on I believe. What would my next step be anybody? |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 03:05 pm: |
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Unless you have a broken wire, that means that you are not getting the charging voltage out of the voltage regulator. That could be a bad alternator (no AC voltage from the alternator) or a bad voltage regulator (AC voltage into the VR but no DC out or too little DC out). If you read Reepicheep's wonderful post at this link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/54010.html?1107789974 It will tell you everything you need to do to test those two items. You need a VOM and a service manual is a nice to have thing too. Read some of the other posts in that thread and you might find some of the later KV threads on electrical problems helpful too: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/3594.html?1152462196 But ask back here if you need more help. Jack (Message edited by jackbequick on July 09, 2006) |
Superhilti
| Posted on Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 04:00 pm: |
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Jack I tested the ac current coming from the alternator and it is within range I have the service manual and have performed most all the tests and I believe all signs point to the vr. I really appreciate your help and if there is anything else I should check let me know. I just bought this bike a couple weeks ago and really enjoy it so far. Its a 2000 M2 cyclone with 2600 miles. Thanks again |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 10:35 pm: |
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Sounds like you have it nailed down Chris. I also replied to your PM. I mentioned that Accel sells an after market VR for the Buells but I think I was wrong about that unless the one Accel sells for the Sportsters is a duplicate of the Buell. It it is not cheaper than the OEM part, it is about $20 more but comes with a warranty. Some more info here on page 36: http://download.customchrome.com/catalog2006/Section%206.pdf My 2000 M2 had the same failure at 2,300 miles (two weeks after I got it). But after replacing that and going through all the standard M2 fixes, I put 3,900 miles on it in 18 months and it was dead reliable and a joy to own up to when I sold it last month. Unless you consider the VR failure to be one, I had no major problems or failures with my M2. Jack Unless |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Monday, July 10, 2006 - 08:42 pm: |
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Pretty straight forward, if you got AC out of the alternator but no +14 (or so) out of the VR, it's dead. Make sure it grounded properly before yor toss it though. Grounding was an issue for some of these. |
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