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Buellgrrrl
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 12:35 pm: |
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Well, testing reveals 0 resistance between the stator and ground, .3 ohms across the stator windings, and normal voltage output from the stator. Sounds like a bad stator. Is it neccessary to pull the clutch assembly out to get at the stator? If so, are the HD special tools required? And will the high output stator from the Uly fit? Just wondering if I should DIY this or let the local HD shop have at it under the extended warranty. |
Mikej
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 01:49 pm: |
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You have to remove the main sprocket/rotor and get the primary chain off, which may necessitate the removal of the clutch basket to slide the whole assembly with chain off. Pretty sure you don't have to remove the clutch plates to get the basket off, but I could be wrong. Bomber has the most recent experience on this. Not sure if he's in transit today or not though. See the Bomber stator thread for stator options. |
Fdl3
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 01:49 pm: |
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Uly high-output stator? |
Oldog
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 03:17 pm: |
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BG if you do the stator you must do the regulator too.. |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 08:37 am: |
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The only special tool you need is a locking bar to keep the clutch assembly and rotor immobile when you loosen them. You can easily make this tool yourself. If the bike is under warranty, I'd just let the dealer do it. If you do it yourself, remember that the nut for the clutch is reverse threaded. |
Maxxx
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 08:43 am: |
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Anyone know of a high output alternator / charging system for a Sportster / Buell ?? I can't find anything on the market and thought I'd ask the group. Any info much appreciated ! |
Bomber
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 10:59 am: |
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Dora -- easiest way is to bring it on down to the Entropy Lab -- I'm pretty good at stator R&R at this point -- catch me while my skills are fresh! you'll need the aforementioned locking bar (it's good to have aluminum scrap in the garage!), some honkin big sockets for the clutch/crank nuts -- you do NOT have to disassemble the clutch, but simply pull it off as a unit (with the rotor/primary chain) also, if you're smart, you'll find out that your stoutest torque wrench is good to 150 ft/lb BEFORE to start assembling things, and find you need 210 ft/lbs ;-} R&R stator and reg at the same time -- don't ask me how I know I got the tools and all in the Lab, ma'am, and you're welcome to come on down -- I can easily generate the required 210 ft/lbs, and I'm not sure a person with a punctured part should attempt that |
Gowindward
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 11:13 am: |
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Buellgrrrl is not Buellgirlie (Dora) |
Mikej
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 11:14 am: |
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Bomber, that's not Dora, not sure where she lives since that isn't in her profile, but I'm sure she appreciates the offer, and if she is within transport distance she should definitely take you up on the offer. |
Road_thing
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 02:03 pm: |
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Say, Bomber, how are you at isolator replacement? I've got a project or two... rt |
Bomber
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 03:05 pm: |
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OOOpps -- I often get those gurl people confused (which has predicable affects ;-} ) RT -- I'm pretty good at those, too -- if it wasn't already taken, I'd switch my screen name to Paladin |
Blackbelt
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 03:41 pm: |
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You do NOT need the bar to stop the sprockets if you have an Impact wrench. I did this swap last summer. I replaced my shorted out stator w/ an Accel Stator from Dennis Kirk. Just pull the Primary cover off you need to pull the lock washer off the plate that covers the clutch sprocket nutt. (it is the larger one that goes on the inside of the basket, not the little black one around the bolt) and then use an impact wrench on each nutt and pull both assy. off at the same time.. REMEMBER the Clutch nutt is REVERSE THREADS! or is it the Crank is revers.. anyway.. once those are off, the stator is right there (has 4 bolts holding it on).. make sure to use LOCK TIGHT on the threads of the stator when installing new stator. enjoy trying to get the rubber grommit out of the case, and the new one back in... SUCKS!!! it is the Wire Grommit for the stator.. When you take the plate off that holds the wires back for the stator... bend it back a hair to stop the wires from being cut... See Newfie for that one.. THANKS give me or Spidy or Newie a shout if you run into trouble.. we have all done this swap. |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 03:57 pm: |
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You are not supposed to use an impact wrench on the crank nut. The way Al at American Sport Bike explained it was that the crank is pressed together and using an impact wrench could get the crank halves misaligned through the rod journal. |
Bomber
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 04:01 pm: |
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you can also break the adhesive bond between the rotor and the magnets -- |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 04:19 pm: |
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It says right on the rotor, "No Dead Blows". What's a "dead blow"? |
Buellgrrrl
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 04:27 pm: |
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Guys, thanks for the advice. The nearest Buell dealer has a 2 week backlog just to get into the service department, the next closest can't find a rockerbox gasket, the next closest dropped Buell, and the next closest hasn't answered my e-mail. Thusly this is going to be a DIY project. Thanks for the advice and I'll probably be back with more questions. |
Tramp
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 04:46 pm: |
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Uly stator fits (good plan), ensure that your test ground is absolutely good before you nix your original starter |
Bomber
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 04:49 pm: |
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dead blow is generally a type of hammer that does not bounce when it strikes something (most often has a bunch of lead shot in a oily substance in the head) BG -- it really is pretty easy -- from what I've read from you, you've got the skills needed lil heat on the crank nut to break the super-duper loctite helps, as well |
Road_thing
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 05:35 pm: |
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dead blow is generally a type of hammer Whew, that's a relief. Thought I was gonna have to moderate some necrophilia there for a minute... rt |
Oldog
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 06:06 pm: |
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Bomber you were Dead On with that description........ Hey its Friday! |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Saturday, June 17, 2006 - 11:52 pm: |
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"Thanks for the advice and I'll probably be back with more questions." This is a rite of passage for Buell riders who do their own wrenching. You won't be lacking any kind of support with this repair... believe me. I hate saying it because it's such a cliche now, but... "Been there, done that". |
Newfie_buell
| Posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 07:40 pm: |
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I too used an electric impact gun to remove the old bolt and used it to put it back on. 20,000km later all is still holding together. Here are some pics of the failure I went through. I bent the little holding plate back a bit off the wire when I replaced it. I also did not replace the regulator and all is still good.
This seems to be the most common kind of stator failure for the Buells |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 07:38 am: |
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That's not the way mine failed - the insulation was fine under the the retaining plate. It was deteriorating where the leads are connected to the windings at the blob of glue (or whatever that stuff is). |
Bomber
| Posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 11:10 am: |
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RT -- you think of the strangest things (sez the man with Grateful Dead songs in his head this mornin -- note to self, do NOT sing, even in sotte voce, the tune "Bertha" on the train in the morning -- security guards were waiting at the station ;-} ) shorting under the lil plate is a common failure mode -- as is the connection point where the wires join under the glue (as Deej sez) -- magnets come adrift from the rotor within 200 miles of switching from Mobil 1 gear lude to HD synth -- and I can proove it! 100% of the time, in my experience (hey, once outa one is 100%, ain't it?) |
Mikej
| Posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 11:36 am: |
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Please don't tell me this re the HD Synth switchment. I put the newer synth lube in the M2 primary this season, been on the S2 more so the M2 is probably right around the 200 mile mark on the new fluid. Sort of kind of lost the little utility trailer two weekends ago so won't so easily be able to transport the M2 down to the Entropy lab "when" the synthetically motivated magnets attack the stator as noted/predicted above, but I did just last night pick up a little 12' rowboat on a trailer which might be able to be maligned into carrying a destatored M2 "when" the need arises. Almost rode the M2 in today which would have probably put it over the 200 mile marque, but needed the pickup to carry some oars so I guess I was saved from a long walk. Dang, now I be paranoid, gonna have to go start a doom and gloom misery thread re the impending eminent gloomy doom life is about to become with the M2 black lemonaid-from-lemons maker. (hmmm, might need to switch to decaf tea unless that one glass of wine from saturday night's wedding reception is finally starting to kick in. Oh well, I wonder what's on channel 12, click, buzz,....) |
Bomber
| Posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 11:57 am: |
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;-} can you say propinquity? |
Mikej
| Posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 12:20 pm: |
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With or without chicken noodle soup in my mouth? Tried saying it tongue in cheek but bit myself. |
Henrik
| Posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 02:56 pm: |
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pro·pin·qui·ty P Pronunciation Key (pr-pngkw-t) n. Proximity; nearness. Kinship. Similarity in nature. You'se guy's are weird today ... Henrik |
Bomber
| Posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 03:11 pm: |
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and YOU looked it up! so who's weird? ;-} |
Road_thing
| Posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 05:14 pm: |
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I'm glad Henrik looked it up. I thought Propinquity was the Indian chief that sold Manhattan for $20 worth of beads! rt |
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